circuit breaker

Al,

I have an old rig (84 Paj 4 banger) with LPG and a winch fitted.
Originally, the winch control box was directly connected to the battery via a 1.5m long heavy duty wire.
To make things safer, I installed one of those chunky rotational switches in series, as close to the battery as possible, but this was still about .5m away.
Because you can't be cautious enough with unfused wires, I ended up pulling some flexible 20mm conduit (the grey stuff you see in 240VAC installations) over it.

Another suggestion: I don't know what rating your c/b is, but if it's below 30A, you could wire an additional small in-line blade fuse holder (comes with PVC cap) close to the battery plus terminal.
I think you can get these blade fuses with a rating up to 30A?

Overflow bottle: bare minimum volumetric size depends on the difference between coolant hot/cold volumes (you might have to use a marker pen on the plastic container to get an idea of this).
If you can, get a shorter, but deeper o/f bottle wich offers similar volume to the original, or mount the o/f bottle somewhere else with an extended piece of rubber hose.

Hope there is something useful in it for you.

Best regards, batteryvalue

I would rather use a fuse holder that you can see the fuse, if you heat-shrink it you will have no idea of its condition.

I would use a ANL use holder.



or a trip breaker.



or even a Maxi fuse holder.



or a std breaker.



Regards

Derek from ABR

I agree that normally your solutions are the only way to go.

But the 200 amp fuse would only blow if there were a short-circuit on the cable between the battery and the circuit breakers inside the car.

The circuit breakers are rated much lower than the fuse, so any overload or short-circuit at the sockets would trip the breakers, not blow the fuse.