Spotlight Supports for Corrugated Roads

Hi All

I'm interested in and homemade or commercial products to help support spotlights on corrugated roads.

I'm not interested in 'buy lightforce' type responses. I already have a set of roo lights which are pretty good on the corrugations anyway.

I'm just interested in what solutions people have to support their lights (any brands) to stop them shaking on corrugations.

Pictures would be good

Thanks
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Reply By: Member - Stephen L (Clare SA) - Thursday, Feb 11, 2010 at 18:57

Thursday, Feb 11, 2010 at 18:57
Hi Rod
I learnt the hard way 15 years ago out near Warakurna. Had Hella lights on one of my vehicles and by the time I got to Yulara, both metal housings were cracked beyond repair. This was an expensive lesson and one that will not happen again.
What I have done to 3 vehicles since then is use the metal supportive bracing supplied with the lights. I drill the brace to the bull ball and mould it to shape to fit the back of the light. I have travelled some very corrugated road and they as firm as ever and have not damaged a light housing since. The below picture does not show much, as I paint the bracket black to blend in with the back of the driving light.

I hope this is the type of answer that you are after.


Cheers


Stephen

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AnswerID: 403788

Reply By: Ozhumvee - Thursday, Feb 11, 2010 at 19:21

Thursday, Feb 11, 2010 at 19:21
The old standby of rally drivers for years is the simple worm drive hose clamp.
Cut them in half and attach one end to the light housing and the other end to the bullbar/bonnet/whatever, use the worm drive to adjust the focus/tilt of the light.
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Follow Up By: Fab72 - Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 09:41

Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 09:41
Yep...done this myself. Works great and as mentioned, easy to adjust light height,
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Reply By: Member - Boobook - Thursday, Feb 11, 2010 at 19:28

Thursday, Feb 11, 2010 at 19:28
Narva make ones that can be used with most driving lights. Looks like mecanno stuff which you could also use I guess.
AnswerID: 403792

Reply By: ExplorOz - David & Michelle - Thursday, Feb 11, 2010 at 20:00

Thursday, Feb 11, 2010 at 20:00
If you click on the related article link to the driving lights article you will see the ones I made up about 8 years ago and still going strong. By using the bolt threads you can adjust the angle of the light by adjusting the nuts. Anyway good luck - mine took about 30 mins to weld and install.
David
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Reply By: Rod - Thursday, Feb 11, 2010 at 22:23

Thursday, Feb 11, 2010 at 22:23
Hi Guys

Thanks for all the responses and photos. I might adapt some of the ideas
AnswerID: 403828

Reply By: Member - Ed C (QLD) - Thursday, Feb 11, 2010 at 22:39

Thursday, Feb 11, 2010 at 22:39
The way I stop my (Hella) driving lights (and everything else) from shaking to bits on corrugations, is to reduce my tyre pressures, and _slow down_ !!!
This has the added benefit of minimising damage to the road surface as well....

My driving lights have no added support, and have never looked like needing any..

YMMV

;-))

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"He who lie underneath automobile with tool in hand,
....Not necessarily mechanic!!"

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AnswerID: 403832

Reply By: Shaver - Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 07:16

Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 07:16
If your vehicle is of the more modern type which utilizes the "crush can method" the Bull Bar will tend to vibrate even on hitting pot holes. I have found that you need to anchor the end of your support brace to the D/light on a solid part of the vehicle (inside grill area) rather than the Bull Bar. I used extended Narva Support Braces on mine (200 Series Cruiser) & have had no trouble since.
AnswerID: 403857

Follow Up By: Rod - Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 08:05

Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 08:05
Shaver

Yes, I've seen setups in carparks as you suggest and now I know why they have done it that way. I'm a little hesitant to do it that way because if I have a small brush with a roo, I'm worried the stays will push back and puncture the air con condensor.

I don't have crush cans in my LR Defender so maybe this some some small advantage to not having airbags.
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Follow Up By: Shaver - Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 08:20

Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 08:20
Rod,

When you do this mod, you take into consideration a Roo or Animal strike & angle the Stabilizer Bar up to a point beside your radiator, so that on impact the Bar goes upward & not through your radiator (common sense prevails). If you do it properly the Bar will cantelever as the light is forced backwards !
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Reply By: Member - Oldplodder (QLD) - Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 09:12

Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 09:12
After my cibie super oscars came loose on the cape, I out some stainless steel rigging screws on. Still there are 14 years.


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AnswerID: 403876

Reply By: signman - Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 09:18

Friday, Feb 12, 2010 at 09:18
Easy as...remove your driving lights when you intend to do extended travelling on corrugated roads !!
(and any other superfulous stuff thats prone to falling off)..



AnswerID: 403877

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