15 x 8" Wheels - Quality
Submitted: Saturday, Feb 27, 2010 at 20:44
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Imstat
I want to buy some new 15" x 8" Sunraiser type wheels for my Landcruiser HZJ75RP.
Does anyone know if they are all the same, quality wise, please. I recall sometime ago the better ones had a silicone seal where the wheel web (bit with stud holes) joins the rim.
Any advice appreciated thanks, Ian
Reply By: WYSIWYG (Bundaberg Qld) - Saturday, Feb 27, 2010 at 23:02
Saturday, Feb 27, 2010 at 23:02
I bought some sunraysia style rims (4) for our caravan and initially had two fail (small crack appeared in the front bend line of the rim giving them a slow leak). They were Infinity brand, white with a single blue pinstripe) I had them replaced under warranty but they also ended up with the same fault. In all the whole 4 failed. I'm using ROH brand and so far no problems. Aussie made and 5 year warranty
Have a read of thread 63828 and also do a search for sunraysia on the
forum, lots of info. Hope this helps.
Cheers
AnswerID:
406420
Follow Up By: Imstat - Sunday, Feb 28, 2010 at 07:15
Sunday, Feb 28, 2010 at 07:15
Thanks for that.
Looks like I can't go wrong with Speedy or ROH.
Cheers Ian
FollowupID:
676171
Reply By: Ozrover - Sunday, Feb 28, 2010 at 09:47
Sunday, Feb 28, 2010 at 09:47
Hi Imsat,
ROH are having a stock clearance at the moment, I just bought ten Black Traks for Dave & myself.
Very good prices.
Call @ 1300 722 723
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Imstat - Sunday, Feb 28, 2010 at 10:00
Sunday, Feb 28, 2010 at 10:00
Excellent Ozrover!
thanks for this tip.
Cheers.
FollowupID:
676193
Reply By: Fab72 - Sunday, Feb 28, 2010 at 10:51
Sunday, Feb 28, 2010 at 10:51
A guy I work with had sunraysias on his caravan. He would always
check the wheel nuts for torque before any trip. Usually they'd be a bit loose, which in itself raises suspicions. Anyway, the one time he forgot to
check them, the nuts on one wheel worked loose, chewed out the studs on the hub, wheel fell off at 90kmph and he was left with a hefty repair bill and a spoilt holiday.
Now, working as an engineer for a large Aussie auto manufacturer, we obviously went through a root cause analysis investigation. To cut a long story short, there were two contributing factors.
1. The paint on the wheels reduced friction between the wheel nut and the rim (not the main factor, but certainly a contributor).
2. The biggest contributor was that the area where the wheel nuts clamp onto the rim was flat. This provides no preload onto the wheel nuts. OEM steel rims generally have raised/domed areas which act in the same way that spring washers work. This, combined with No. 1 allowed the wheel nuts to work loose. Explains why his wheel nuts were always loose everytime he checked them.
Other observations were that the rim wasn't a snug fit on the stub meaning that all the weight was being supported by the studs. This is commonly overlooked by people when buying aftermarket rims, and its a huge NO NO. Wheel studs are not designed to carry that sort of force.
He has since replaced the wheels with OEM car rims and after several long trips the wheel nuts haven't moved off 110 Nm. Problem solvered.
AnswerID:
406471
Follow Up By: Imstat - Sunday, Feb 28, 2010 at 11:20
Sunday, Feb 28, 2010 at 11:20
Thanks,
Is there a 15x8 wheel with the OEM design features you describe?
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Follow Up By: Fab72 - Sunday, Feb 28, 2010 at 12:32
Sunday, Feb 28, 2010 at 12:32
Imstat,
Not sure. ROH are usually pretty good. I'd try them first. Worse comes to worse, get a wheel that fits snug over the hub and use spring washers on the nuts.
FollowupID:
676214
Follow Up By: splits - Sunday, Feb 28, 2010 at 12:58
Sunday, Feb 28, 2010 at 12:58
"Fab72 replied:
Other observations were that the rim wasn't a snug fit on the stub meaning that all the weight was being supported by the studs. This is commonly overlooked by people when buying aftermarket rims, and its a huge NO NO. Wheel studs are not designed to carry that sort of force. "
Could you please explain one point for me regarding studs and hubs? My Hilux and Falcon both have the original factory fitted steel wheels. Both wheels are such a snug fit that it looks like the vehicle weight is being taken directly by the hubs yet I can run a .005 to .006" feeler gauge right around between the hub and wheel on both of them. This clearance is still there regardless of wheel/hub temperature and vehicle weight.
This sounds normal to me because how would you get the wheel on and off if there was no clearance? It then raises the question: how is the weight taken by the hub when there is no wheel/hub contact except through the studs?
You are right about the raised dome on steel wheels acting like a spring washer. I remember many cars having problems with loosening wheels way back when aftermarket wheels first appeared on the market. Most of them had flat centres.
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Follow Up By: Fab72 - Monday, Mar 01, 2010 at 16:20
Monday, Mar 01, 2010 at 16:20
splits....what can I say. Some manufacturers do things better than others.
Check out Toyota L/Cruiser wheels. They are VERY tight getting them off the hub. A bit too tight sometimes. Others, as you say are not even close to a snug fit.
.005 to .006" (0.152 4mm) ....that's pretty snug in my opinion. If the wheel nuts all came loose, would the rim sit on the hub or on the wheel studs? Remembering the holes in the rim are not a size for size fit with the studs.
In my work mate's case, once the wheel nuts came loose, the rim was basically hammering on the sides of the wheel studs until several sheared off. Had he have had only .005 to .006" clearance, the rim would have been hammering on the stub, he probably would have felt a unbalanced wobble, and probably would have stopped before the wheel fell off.
Hope that clarifies my earlier comment splits.... I should have been a bit clearer when I said "snug fit". I certainly didn't mean to confuse anyone by suggesting an interference fit which can be very annoying when trying to remove a flaty, especially after a bit of beach work (rust etc).
Fab.
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