Monday, Mar 22, 2010 at 19:57
cheers doug,
i actually managed to repair mine with a little panel beating to that pressed metal hemisphere to restore the roundness, the plastic top is held on by 6 crimps in the base hemisphere. simply bending these back is enough to remove the top plastic hemisphere.
the actuator is easily removed by unscrewing the 2 mounting bolts , labeling the 2 vacuum hoses and removing from each port and peeling back the rubber bellows and sliding the sprung sleeve along the shaft to expose the little pin which connects the actuator shaft to the free-wheel disengage shaft.
after removing i carefully reset the diaphram in the housing and relocated the cap and pressed the crimps back on making sure to keep the shaft at the correct alignment to reconnect to the slot in the free-wheel disengage shaft.
i also smeared loctite gasket goo on the surfaces of the diaphram where it will be sandwiched between the cap and housing to aid in sealing.
also holding the actuator in a vice by gripping it by the shaft with the diaphragm spring fully compressed makes the job a lot easier.
if the plastic cap is cracked/broken loctite/polyfiller can be used to repair it.
if the plastic port has broken off you could screw/glue a piece small tubing in the hole to reconnect the tube.
incidentally these actuators are now $270.00
so i have ordered a replacement one to keep as a spare and drawn up a little bash plate that mounts to the existing 4 bolts for the back protective plate to protect it from now on.
i hope this can be of some assistance to the next poor soul that whacks one up,
its prolly a good idea to add a bit more protection for anyone else who takes a ML triton to areas where there are a lot of wheel ruts.
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