Rodeo Diff Locker

After giving your question some thought I see you said Auto hubs, so that's ok, they don't engage until you engage 4wd so that would mean the front diff is not turning until 4wd is selected, Providing the vehicle is not a full time 4x4 then I see no problems,
However I would look at going Detroit locker, maybe the True Trac but I have the full "No Spin" lockers both ends in my Troopy and steering is a little heavy but ok.
Have a read of the link below, it explains lockers very well.

LOCKERS

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Hi flaps,

I'm going through the same thing as you. Now, I believe your Rodeo would have fixed hubs (not auto or manual hubs) like mine does (04 Rodeo). I have ordered manual locking hubs from ARB (AVM hubs, part# AVM 433, $242) and will fit them on as soon as they come in (been waiting for 3 weeks now!) I might consider fitting a LOKKA in the front as well. The hub must have 6 bolt holes and 17 splines in order for it to be a direct swap over.

The main reason why I'm fitting manual hubs is that I can use 4L without engaging the hubs, therefore giving me 2L (for backing large trailers, etc.) I have read stories where people have had situations where the LOKKA was 'tricked' into getting locked unintentionally because of the fixed hubs that are fitted to Rodeo's, as the CV joints and axles spins all the time. Wether or not that's true, who knows. That's another reason why I'm fitting manual hubs, to reduce wear to those parts that spin when I don't want them to. Some people will tell you that because the axle bearings are now idle, they will suffer vibration damage. But that's easily overcome by engaging the manual hubs like once a month (minimum) for 15km to ensure axle lubrication.

A lot of Rodeo owners are switching to manual hubs due to the obvious advantages. The setbacks are that you cannot use the 'shift-on-the-fly' feature (if you have the hubs disengaged), of course with the hubs engaged before hand you can use shift-on-the-fly (I hardly use it, I always stop when engaging 4WD). Another setback is that you have to get out of the cabin to lock in the hubs, but I think the advantages outweigh the disadvantages.

Hope I haven't confused you.

Cheers.

I have the 2007 Rodeo fitted with front Lokka's. Worth their weight in gold. No major issues to date and I take them on some challenging tracks. You will not regret the choice. Just remember once fitted you do not have to go at an obstacle with aggression, you can just pick a line and let it walk over. Drive like this and I would think you will have no issues. You will notice the steering always wants to return to center, once you get used to this its no longer an issue and to date I have not heard the clicking noise that a few people talk about (as the lokka unlocks to adjust during turns)

I fitted free wheeling hubs the brand and part number quoted above (17 splines). One thing to watch with these is do not let an apprentice undo them to adjust the wheel nuts :-) I had Holden do this and they broke two of the studs. They did tell me they had broken them, what they did not tell me is that they did not replace them. I noticed when grease started coming from the hole without the bolt.

I have since found out the trick with these small stud bolts - First do not let anyone do them up too tight (they have a tapered head) and if they are proving very hard to turn make sure you give them a tap with a hammer and this breaks the seal.

Though you do not need to fit the free wheeling hubs, (I do drive mine locked in in 2wd for the reason stated above - I have had no maintenance issues to date) I would recommend them as I found it to be a good addition.

I like the ability to do the low 2wd thing as well when pulling the boat out of the water or backing it down the drive etc.

Have fun with them - Cheers Tony

It is not nescessary to fit Free Wheeling Hubs (FWH) to RA Rodeo's, their succesors and other Izuzu's with shift on the fly.

These vehicles have constant drive through the right hand side axle, through the front differential to the split shaft on the left side of the differential.

In 2WD, the right side wheel will turn the differential and the front drive shaft, the front drive shaft will free wheel in the transfer case. Wether a Lokka is fitted or not, or the front diff remains as an open centered differential, the front wheels will rotate independantly of each other.

So there is a technical case for the fitting of FWH as being unescessary.

However there are good reasons to fit FWH for reducing wear as already stated, with the added disadvantage that shift on the fly is as useful as a double ended condom unless the FWH are engaged.

I experienced an electrical fault with my 4WD engagement in the back of the transfer case, which when wet, would force the RA into 4WD unless I was content to drive with the finger firmly held on the 2WD button. FWH would have been beneficial to me. btw one GMH service department tried to sell me a whole new transfer case to the tune of $4.5k that I didn't need. I went to a GMH service centre that new their stuff and correctly had the transfer case 4WD solenoid replaced, drive in drive out for less than 10% of the whole transfer case.

Fitting of FWH is not technically nescessary, but one of personnal choice.
The lockers in both my RA are of the ARB air operated, I have nor replaced the fixed hubs with FWH, nor do I intend to unless my solenoid plays games again.

Cheers,
Dion.