Drinking water and sullage hoses

Submitted: Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 12:13
ThreadID: 77598 Views:10664 Replies:10 FollowUps:13
This Thread has been Archived
We're off on a year's trip in May so took our Coromal caravan on a 4-day trial over Easter. All went fine except for the morning cup of tea. Yuk !

OK we'd done as others had done and used the garden hose to connect up the water supply. This is a no no. We've now purchased a 20m (x12mm) length of light blue "Drinking water hose" made by Neta, which complies with AS/NZS 4020 for drinking water use. Bunnings and others stock it. It comes without end connectors. As others have observed it is more difficult to coil than the garden hose type. We've put brass female connectors at each end.

Hint number 1... if you dip the hose end in warm water for 30 seconds it makes it much easier to do the one-off original fitting of the brass connectors.

Hint number 2..... 20m is too long for most use, so we've cut it into 2 lengths of 7m and 13m respectively and fitted 2 more brass female connectors an purchased a brass male-male joiner. You now have a choice of 7m, 13m, or connect them both together for 20m.

Hint number 3.... When purchasing the brass connectors you can get a pack of 2 females + one male tap connector all together for less than the price of buying the separately.

Problem 2 was the black sullage hose. It's quite important to have the type that may be ribbed on the outside but needs to be smooth on the inside; otherwise food will stick in the ridges and smell. Our friend who is an expert told us this, which we did, and also told us that 7 metres would be sufficient. Wrong! At our trial site the sullage drain was 10m away from the van. We've now purchased a further 7m length with a rubber push-on connector so we can extend if required.

Hope this helps.
Back Expand Un-Read 0 Moderator

Reply By: Member - DAZA (QLD) - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 12:46

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 12:46
G/Day David

Seems like you have every thing organised, just make sure you have the large hose tap adaptor 25mm as well as the normal 20mm as lots of van parks only use 25mm, and just a reminder re: 15amp extension leads for your power hook up at van parks.

AnswerID: 412361

Follow Up By: Pete Jackman (SA) - Monday, Apr 12, 2010 at 09:48

Monday, Apr 12, 2010 at 09:48
The tap adapter is not a problem if you follow me around - I usually forget to get the adapter off the tap ...
Any mug can be uncomfortable out bush

My Profile  My Blog  My Position  Send Message

FollowupID: 682666

Reply By: Curlynan - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 12:50

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 12:50
It's good that you purchased the proper Drinking Water Hose that is a must, as for the Black Sullage Hose one thing you may want to keep in mind is that at least once a week or if a stay is somewhat less than that, flush the sullage hose out from the mains tap, that gets rid of any muck that may have built up also, I've been thinking of purchasing that liquid gel sink cleaner that has been advertised on the TV. Has anyone used this and what is your report on it?
Always a good idea to flush water through your sink, and if you have an ensuite the vanity and shower pipes as well. Just like your loo it needs constant cleaning and maintenance.
Good idea to have shorter lengths, as you say you can always use a connection to add the extra length if needed.

AnswerID: 412362

Reply By: Member - Toyocrusa (NSW) - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 12:51

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 12:51
Hi David. Some good advice there. I use the Flat wind up style hose that winds back into the container. I have found this extremly useful as it compacts for storage. I also run my water supply through a two stage filter before it goes into the tank. I also have another filter on the drinking supply tap and this seems to eliminate any unusual taste. Regards, Bob.
AnswerID: 412363

Follow Up By: Member - barry F (NSW) - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 13:14

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 13:14
Hi Bob, we use the ribbed type sullage hose, one at 10 metres & another at 5 metres which works quite well but of course is a bit difficult to wind up & store plus takes up heaps of room.

The wind up flat hose sounds good for ease of storage, but how does it go with the drainage aspect? I would have thought that being flat & laying on usually fairly level ground that they might not have let the water get away quick enough. Your comments would be appreciated. Thanks & cheers.
FollowupID: 682371

Follow Up By: Member - Toyocrusa (NSW) - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 20:27

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 20:27
Hi Barry. I actually meant the water supply hose being the flat one. The flat sullage hoses are not as good for the reason you mention. They need quite a slope to be efficient. I have a 100mm water pipe(PVC) running length ways along the van to store the sullage hose in which is similar construction to yours.I have it in two 5 metre lengths and join when nescessary. Bob.

FollowupID: 682441

Reply By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 13:31

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 13:31
Also remember you must only use ONE unbroken length of 15amp cable to hook up to camp supplies

We have 4 lengths of ribbed sullage hose and havent had smells off it. We flush it out before putting it away Roll it up with a strap around it and it doesnt take up too much room.

I was going to buy the roll up hose when we started vanning and the guy wouldnt sell it to me He said its a pain rolling it all out when it may not be needed and needs a bit more pressure to let water run away as it tends to try to stay flat.

Have seen evidence of this on our travels so some credence in it.

The rest of what you say is fairly elementary really
AnswerID: 412371

Reply By: Thermoguard Instruments - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 14:14

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 14:14
Hi David,

All good ideas for new caravanners. If I may add a couple of hints:

. Use a couple of cheap plastic 'click' male-male joiners to join the ends of your water hose sections together before stowing. Stops any remaining water dribbling into the boot if carried internally or stops dust gettng into the hoses if carried on an external rack.

. Use the same idea with a joiner or two for your sullage hose, if carried coiled-up in the boot.

. We carry two ~5.5m lengths of sullage hose in two 40 mm lengths of DVW poly pipe run lengthways under the chassis. The front ends are sealed with glue-on caps; the rear ends, just under the rear bumper, have screw caps. Our chassis has 50 x 150 oval perforations along each cross-member, so it was simple to feed the poly pipes through from rear to front and secure them with large cable ties.

Happy travels. Ian
AnswerID: 412377

Follow Up By: Member - DAZA (QLD) - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 17:08

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 17:08
Thanks Ian for the tip about the male joiners when carrying them in the boot, good idea.
FollowupID: 682405

Follow Up By: Thermoguard Instruments - Sunday, Apr 11, 2010 at 08:27

Sunday, Apr 11, 2010 at 08:27
Thanks Daza. I guess you all spoted my 'deliberate mistake'? The sullage hose bit should have read "two lengths of 40 mm DVW poly pipe" NOT "two 40 mm lengths of DVW poly pipe". Or is it DWV pipe? I can never remember. Ian
FollowupID: 682486

Reply By: Member - Barry (NT) - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 15:57

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 15:57
Agree with Ian's comments above.

One word of caution with water hoses FROM EXPERIENCE over last 2.5 years --- the blue ones mentioned above can blow off in parks with high water pressure when using click on connectors thatt require the hose to be gripped by plastic to hose

ONE solution is to buy the ribbed reinforced hose as it has a thicker wall and grips better it seems

A tip when winding up istiff hoses is to turn the hose ie twist one turn foreach time you wind it up (if that makes sense) AND wind it up the same each time

you can do the same with 240V cords and they last a lot longer

practical stuff that may help

cheers Baz
AnswerID: 412393

Follow Up By: Member - Barry (NT) - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 16:13

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 16:13
ah sorry error above - delete the word ribbed - the hose is smooth bore and smooth outside but you can see the rinfocing inside

we have a white one and a blue one and they are both semi translucent
FollowupID: 682400

Reply By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 17:43

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 17:43
Camec have a new more flexible water hose than the old stiff one with the blue stripe.
The new one rolls up really well especially if you use tea joiner.

AnswerID: 412408

Reply By: Pete Mac - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 19:22

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 19:22
Don't want to hijack your thread but...

I'm setting up a water system in the vehicle. I have bought the components from camec...

The salesperson assured me that sullage hose if fine to use between the filler and the water tank? I quizzed him a couple of times but was assured it is ok.

Is this the case?


AnswerID: 412429

Follow Up By: Thermoguard Instruments - Sunday, Apr 11, 2010 at 08:00

Sunday, Apr 11, 2010 at 08:00
Hi Pete,

Can't see why not, if you use a piece of new clean hose (not an off-cut from a old used sullage hose - YUK!). If the hose ID suits the filler plate spigot and the tank inlet spigot and you secure it well so it doesn't flap around while travelling, it should work quite well.

Often the manufacturers use ordinary clear plastic 25mm tubing. As it's inside or under the van it's not in direct sunlight but if it's positioned so that some water sits in it after filling the tank it can still grow a bit a algae inside, so an opaque tube is still a better idea. (And positioned so it self-drains into the tank.)

Another alternative is black rural poly pipe but this can be too stiff if you need tight bends.

FollowupID: 682483

Follow Up By: Pete Mac - Sunday, Apr 11, 2010 at 08:11

Sunday, Apr 11, 2010 at 08:11
Thanks Ian,

Yes, everything mates up correctly - I was concerned about the sullage hose 'tainting' the water but I guess it won't be sitting in the pipe like it does on the outlet side...


FollowupID: 682484

Reply By: David Hogg - Wednesday, Apr 14, 2010 at 08:48

Wednesday, Apr 14, 2010 at 08:48
Thank you all for your many useful responses. I've picked up a few very useful tips here including the bit about joining the hoses together when stowed.
Graham H (Qld) won't like this one but our 15 Amp electrical lead at the plug end has the earth pin filed down to fit into a 10 Amp socket. Very useful when visiting friends' houses where they only have a 10 Amp socket. Also useful if the lead won't reach the power box at campsites... one can just attach it to another 10 Amp lead. We don't consume more than 10 Amps.
AnswerID: 412858

Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Wednesday, Apr 14, 2010 at 09:07

Wednesday, Apr 14, 2010 at 09:07
You do what you like but both are very illegal.

Could get you chucked out of a camp if the owners check.

Could also be the cause of getting an insurance claim refused as well.

Telling the world on here isnt the smartest thing to do either.
FollowupID: 682884

Follow Up By: David Hogg - Wednesday, Apr 14, 2010 at 10:03

Wednesday, Apr 14, 2010 at 10:03
Hi Graham,
Yes this subject has been extensively covered in other posts. I have a long electrical and electronic background and would never do anything unsafe. I believe that many of the regulations we have now are part of the nanny state we live in. My filing down of the earth pin is entirely safe and many many other people we have met on our travels have done the same. I thought this would be a useful hint for others.
However although most posts state that the practice is "illegal" I would love for someone to point me at the original Act and thereby enabled Regulation and subsection under which I would actually be be prosecuted for doing as I suggest. And yes sure I can see the friendly staff at the caravan park going around and unplugging everybody's lead to check !
My original post was intended to be helpful to other caravanners, and from all other responses it seems that I have been. However your original post described my offering as "fairly elementary" and your subsequent post tells me I'm not doing the smartest thing. You might want to review the way you talk to people in these forums as it seems to be not in keeping with the helpful spirit of most other members.
FollowupID: 682894

Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Wednesday, Apr 14, 2010 at 12:05

Wednesday, Apr 14, 2010 at 12:05
Oh dear

The elementary bit referred to was that I learned 40 years ago to heat hoses before putting them on ends

The caravan park bit was about using one unbroken length of flex to hook up.

The telling the world Well you dont know who reads this stuff and if I was doing something illegal i certainly wouldnt post it on the web

Since you asked here is the Standard that refers to "transportable structures and vehicles including their site supplies

It is AS/NZS 3001:2008 I will send you a PDF as I cant post it here

Have a read of this thread


FollowupID: 682907

Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Wednesday, Apr 14, 2010 at 13:18

Wednesday, Apr 14, 2010 at 13:18
Cant send it as it seems you arent in the members list

FollowupID: 682918

Reply By: Fatso - Wednesday, Apr 14, 2010 at 12:24

Wednesday, Apr 14, 2010 at 12:24
I got a tingle off of the outside of my van once. Immediately disconnected the power supply & went on 12 volt.
It was dodgy van park wiring.
Now I always use an RCD safety switch on all power supplies. I don't own a van any more but I do sometimes still get powered sites to run a battery charger occasionally. I use the RCD then.
Funny thing how so many people entrust their lives to something, but want it to be done cheap.
AnswerID: 412884

Follow Up By: David Hogg - Wednesday, Apr 14, 2010 at 18:35

Wednesday, Apr 14, 2010 at 18:35
Hi Fatso. What you describe is quite terrifying.
I'm not sure that an RCD will protect you in all instances of faulty van park wiring. If the installer had swapped live and earth then the RCD would probably trip and protect you when you touched the van. However if the installer had wired live to the earth pin on the socket and left neutral and/or live pins unconnected then I think it is possible that the RCD might not trip and you might be dead.
Someone who knows more than I do about RCDs might confirm or deny this.
FollowupID: 682946

Sponsored Links

Popular Products (14)