Thursday, Apr 22, 2010 at 14:22
This will give you an idea of what to do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MATTY83
Ok I have spent hours looking thru this
forum. Looking at what mods to do first and basicly most people are saying this, no order,
. Block EGR
. Fit pyro
. Fit boost gauge
. Fit manual boost control
needle value for dawes set up
alot for the threads mention to do these things but i dont understand why and how they work. So if anyone could explain this to me or send us the previous thread its explained on that would be great.
The order is important IMHO. This is what I would recommend:
1. Order a Dawes valve from 3 Bar Racing in the US. Do this first as they take a few weeks to arrive.
http://3barracing.com/product_8.htm
2. Get an EGT gauge. This is arguably the most important gauge for your truck. They should be installed in the dump pipe as close to the outlet of the turbochargers exhaust housing as possible and 550C is the accepted max. I have an after-market exhaust which has a bung in it already.
3. Get a boost gauge. You will need this primarly to set up the Dawes valve and needle valve. After it is set up, it is pretty much set and forget . . . just glance at it every now and then.
4. Buy a new MAF from Garry (nizzbits on the
forum). They should be about $220. Keep it in your glovebox until you fit your catch-can.
5. Once you have your boost and EGT gauges installed you can get to know your truck. You will see the boost fluctuate everywhere, this is normal at this stage. Keep an eye on EGTs and back off the throttle if they get over 550C.
6. Get yourself a catch-can installed to stop blow-by fouling your MAF. There are heaps of threads on the
forum about this so take a look-see. I am using a modified CKD oil-air separator designed for compressors.
7. After you have installed the catch-can, fit your new MAF. Clean the old one with contact cleaner or MAF cleaner and keep it in your glovebox as a spare (assuming it is not stuffed).
8. When your dawes valve arrives, fit it in a boost limiting configuration. This will mean your ECU is still controlling the turbo boost but overboosts will no longer occur. It should limit to around 16PSI max. Your boost gauge will tell the story here. Best to drive around for a week or so like this, just so that you limit the number of changes you do in one hit. Just makes troubleshooting easier if anything doesnt work out.
9. Next step is to get your needle valve. There are a few options, but I use a FluTec DV-6. Was $35 when I bought it a while back, but they have gone up since.
10. Block your EGR and fit the needle valve at the same time as
well as bypassing the Nissan factory boost control solenoid. This is where things really start to get interesting as you now have total control over max boost and the spool rate. By this time you should be seeing lower EGTs on average and having a more responsive bus to boot. You need to do the EGR block/needle valve/solenoid bypass at the same time as they all work together.
I have done some other things and while they are really in the search for performance, EGTs have also benefited.
- 3" exhaust
- I/C fan
- recored I/C
- Lift pump
- Shift kit in the auto
- Trans line pressure solenoid resister mod
- T/C lockup, etc, etc, etc
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