Landcruiser hubs

Submitted: Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 20:11
ThreadID: 78144 Views:3032 Replies:4 FollowUps:4
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Hi all Landcruiser owners.
I have just done the service on the front hubs of our 80 series and found a good way of loosening the cone washers from their holes.
I took the nut off and the washer but replaced the nut till the stud was nearly protuding from the end. Then with a 12 mm socket on an extension shaft I gave each a couple of taps as i went around the 6 studs. Bingo, they all loosened very easily. It is the best way i have found and better than taping the end of the stud.
Hope this idea helps others.
I suppose those who have done it already will also have a good method.
Ian
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Reply By: Fab72 - Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 20:14

Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 20:14
Much easier just backing the nuts off (as you did) then tapping the perimetre of the hub with a small hammer and they'll all loosen at once.
AnswerID: 415022

Follow Up By: V8 Troopie - Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 01:02

Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 01:02
Yeah, some bush mechanic oaf did that to my troopie before I bought it second hand. It looks dreadful, hammer dents everywhere.
Some folks just do not listen how to do it without damaging anything - it has been said here many times.
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FollowupID: 685242

Follow Up By: Fab72 - Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 09:25

Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 09:25
Nevertheless, that's how I was shown to do it way back when I was an apprentice starting out in a Toyota dealership.
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FollowupID: 685250

Follow Up By: howesy - Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 11:04

Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 11:04
whats a 4wd without a mark on (Toorak tractor)
I've been using the "hammer tap the hub" method for years and not once has someone actually noticed and said hey mate whats with the hammer marks.
Who looks that close and who would notice
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FollowupID: 685260

Follow Up By: Fab72 - Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 16:34

Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 16:34
Agree Howesy....after all, we are only talkin a light tap with a hammer. Not a belt with a sledgey.
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FollowupID: 685290

Reply By: Hairs & Fysh - Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 20:29

Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 20:29
Hi Ian,
They are a PITA the first couple of times until the penny drops on how to get them off.
As an old mate use to say. 'A trap for young players'
Cheers, hopefully it will prevent a lot of cursing & swearing for some one.
One thing that gives me grief on my old girl is the hub locking nut/washer thingy having to be done up a tad more each rego. About a poopteenth every now and then. I've asked and some spanner swingers reckon it's a common thing. Hmmm, one year it is the left one, the next it's the right. It just gives the bearing a tad of movement.

I rebuilt my swivel hubs early last year.



AnswerID: 415024

Reply By: Cruiser 2091 - Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 21:37

Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 21:37
After loosening the nuts I use a brass drift against the cone washer. I angle the drift as much as is possible so that when i tap the drift with a small hammer I am knocking the cone out. This works for me.
I dont like the idea of hitting the hub or the studs for that matter. This way I am hitting in the direction I want the cone washer to go, OUT.
AnswerID: 415036

Reply By: trainslux - Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 16:00

Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 16:00
Best way to do these, is to back off the nut, and then with some stud still protruding, with a brass drift on the stud, hit it sharply, but not overly hard, and the cone washer will pop off, you dont bruise the hub by doing it this way, and the cones reseat easily, bruise the hub, and the cones stick, or the nuts come loose over time.
Or if you have a pointed drift, loosen the nut a bit more, so it helps locate the pointed drift.

Yet to find a cone washer that will not come out by using this method.

Trains

Using the socket method is basically applying the same force, but its located by the socket on the nut.
AnswerID: 415110

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