Replace brakefluid in 100GXL petrol cruiser

Hi Michael.
I don't have a 100 series but it most probably is the same as on my 80.
If you have an assistant you can get him / her to pump the brakes while you bleed starting from the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder. I am always cautious about doing it this way because I believe thjat if you allow the brake pedal to go all the way to the flloor that you can damege the seals. My theory is that there is likely to be a build up of gunk towards the end of the stroke that causes this.

another method is to use an air operated bleeder (Compressor is then necessary) These units work on vacuum and after it is connected to the bleeder and the bleeder loosened it draws the fluid out.

Finally you can buy auto bleeders that replace the original bleeder but I have never used these so cannot comment on them.

Anyway whatever method you use start at the passenger rear wheel and bleed until clean fluid comes out then proceed to the other rear followed by the fronts and you are done. Check the fluid level regularly. Also be careful not to allow air back into the system at the bleeder.

I use the air operated type but finish off by cracking open the bleeder quickly with pressure applied to the pedal just to ensure that no air has entered at the bleeder. I do this alone and use a piece of wood jammed against the pedal and the seat in place of an assistant.

G'day Micheal. Firstly you need to have the ignition turned off and do not turn it back on until the job is finished. Take note of the fluid level in the resevoir. Pump the brake pedal around 40 (yep40) times. You will feel a "bump" in the pedal at around 30 or more pumps and then will find the fluid level has risen a centremetre or so. I then take off the plastic resevoir, (the 2 rear screws are a bit tight to get at but it is possible) Wiggle the resevoir out of the master cylinder body rubber grommets. Empty the container, if it is dirty you may need to flush it out and dry it inside completely. Reassemble to mastercylinder body and refil with correct fluid. I use Penrite which they garrantee is compatible with the Toyota system. Undo each bleed nipple < I start LH rear, RH rear, LH front, RH front and drain each through a tube into a suitable bottle. (Let the fluid flow with gravity, Stay away from the pedal and the ignition switch) When all fluid is flowing through clean recheck all bleeders are tight, fil resevoir to full mark, refit cap, start engine and depress brake pedal. Fluid level should be close to where it was originally. Hope that helps. Bob.

The 100 series should have ABS so is different read owners manual and USE DOT 3 brake fluid not dot 4 this is written on top of brake reservior

Firstly the procedure for changing brake fluid is no different to bleeding air out of the system. Brake fluid requires changing every 2 years or 80,000kms. Brake fluid abosorbs water so not changing it could result in rust in the system.

There are either 4 or 5 points where bleeder valves are installed, one in each front caliper, one in each rear caliper or wheel cylinder(drum brakes) and one on models with the load sensing proportioning valve.

Make sure the fluid reservoir is full and during the process do not let the level drop below 1/3.

I use a piece of clear tubing to go over the bleeder valve and run it to an empty container to catch the waste.

Always start at the bleed furtherest away from the master cylinder and work your way towards the closest. So this means, left rear, then right rear, then load sensing valve, left front and finally right front.

The procedure is the same for every bleed valve. Have someone sitting in the car to depress the brake pedal, once they have pressure on the brakes crack open the bleed valve. When the fluid flow stops close the valve and have your assistant take there foot of the brake pedal. Once the valve is cracked open the brake pedal will go to the floor, this is because all the pressure has now gone out of the open bleeder valve. Try to avoid lifting the brake pedal with the bleeder valve open as this may suck air into the system.

Simply repeat this proccess until there is either no air coming out or the fluid is running clean (depending on what your doing). Once the first valve is done then move onto the next.

If flushing the left rear takes a while for the clean fluid to reach it, so be patient it will get there. You should go through about 500ml to do this bit

Its also a good idea to do the clutch fluid at the same time. Its exactly the same proccess, exept you'll have to manually lift the clutch pedal from the floor - and dont bleed the valve more than 3 times in a row as the clutch reservoir is small and youll emtpy it. And the clutch only takes around 9 bleeds to get new fluid through - I gave it 12 to be sure.

Dont reuse old fluid even thou it might look good, throw it out.

Lastly, just remember this is your brakes and if you have any dought doing this job, either pay someone to do it or find someone who will do it for a carton


Rob

Just Buy the Toyota Dot 3, same price if not cheaper than buying at autobarn or similar and is 110% correct. i have suffered the swelling of seals in the master and calipers, and the m/cylinder dont come cheap

Be very careful. I have been told by my mechanic to use ONLY GENUINE TOYOTA brake fluid.
Failure to do so will ruin the ABS pump

The easiest way to replace brake fluid in ANY vehicle is to drive it down to your nearest ABS franchise (or similar) where they will do the whole lot for about $50 in about an hour. Not worth mucking around with it yourself.