Replace brakefluid in 100GXL petrol cruiser

Submitted: Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 21:06
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Hi all who do their own servicing, it is time to replace brakefluid. Hoping that there is someone who has done this and can share the procedure with me.
Thanks in advance.
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Reply By: Cruiser 2091 - Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 21:27

Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 21:27
Hi Michael.
I don't have a 100 series but it most probably is the same as on my 80.
If you have an assistant you can get him / her to pump the brakes while you bleed starting from the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder. I am always cautious about doing it this way because I believe thjat if you allow the brake pedal to go all the way to the flloor that you can damege the seals. My theory is that there is likely to be a build up of gunk towards the end of the stroke that causes this.

another method is to use an air operated bleeder (Compressor is then necessary) These units work on vacuum and after it is connected to the bleeder and the bleeder loosened it draws the fluid out.

Finally you can buy auto bleeders that replace the original bleeder but I have never used these so cannot comment on them.

Anyway whatever method you use start at the passenger rear wheel and bleed until clean fluid comes out then proceed to the other rear followed by the fronts and you are done. Check the fluid level regularly. Also be careful not to allow air back into the system at the bleeder.

I use the air operated type but finish off by cracking open the bleeder quickly with pressure applied to the pedal just to ensure that no air has entered at the bleeder. I do this alone and use a piece of wood jammed against the pedal and the seat in place of an assistant.
AnswerID: 415035

Reply By: Member - Toyocrusa (NSW) - Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 21:38

Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 21:38
G'day Micheal. Firstly you need to have the ignition turned off and do not turn it back on until the job is finished. Take note of the fluid level in the resevoir. Pump the brake pedal around 40 (yep40) times. You will feel a "bump" in the pedal at around 30 or more pumps and then will find the fluid level has risen a centremetre or so. I then take off the plastic resevoir, (the 2 rear screws are a bit tight to get at but it is possible) Wiggle the resevoir out of the master cylinder body rubber grommets. Empty the container, if it is dirty you may need to flush it out and dry it inside completely. Reassemble to mastercylinder body and refil with correct fluid. I use Penrite which they garrantee is compatible with the Toyota system. Undo each bleed nipple < I start LH rear, RH rear, LH front, RH front and drain each through a tube into a suitable bottle. (Let the fluid flow with gravity, Stay away from the pedal and the ignition switch) When all fluid is flowing through clean recheck all bleeders are tight, fil resevoir to full mark, refit cap, start engine and depress brake pedal. Fluid level should be close to where it was originally. Hope that helps. Bob.

AnswerID: 415037

Follow Up By: Member - Toyocrusa (NSW) - Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 21:40

Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 21:40
Answer 1 definately does not apply to 100 series. Bob.
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Reply By: Member - Graham H (NSW) - Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 21:40

Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 21:40
The 100 series should have ABS so is different read owners manual and USE DOT 3 brake fluid not dot 4 this is written on top of brake reservior
AnswerID: 415039

Follow Up By: Doc - Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 21:58

Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 21:58
This is actually very important on a 100 series with ABS - only use DOT3 fluid. DOT4 fluid will cause the seals to swell and the brake pedal to stick - don't ask how I know this. Dit3 is still available but you might need to shop around.
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FollowupID: 685219

Follow Up By: Member - Toyocrusa (NSW) - Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 10:23

Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 10:23
Penrite catagorically state their dot 4 is compatible with all Toyota brake systems. Both their technical people and tech info state the same.I have been using it in a workshop for around four years now without any problems. Bob.
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Wednesday, May 05, 2010 at 16:36

Wednesday, May 05, 2010 at 16:36
I wouldn't risk any brand of DOT4 - it's potentially a $2000 mistake.
Here's some more blurb:
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FollowupID: 685620

Follow Up By: Member - Rob S (NSW) - Wednesday, May 05, 2010 at 17:55

Wednesday, May 05, 2010 at 17:55
This is a good read as well.

Site Link


http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/87_DOT%203%20and%20DOT%204.pdf

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and that's when I thought I was wrong!

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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Wednesday, May 05, 2010 at 18:08

Wednesday, May 05, 2010 at 18:08
Gday Rob,
Yep it is an interesting read - I wonder whether their attitude has changed since 2005?
Its a brave statement to tell Toyota (and Nissan who also specify DOT3) that they don't know what they're talking about. I'd suggest Toyota know more about the rubber in their seals than Penrite. Certainly, it is a problem - lots of people been stung for a new ABS master cylinder.
For me its still a no-brainer - I just spend the $9 for a bottle of the genuine fluid.
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Follow Up By: Member - Rob S (NSW) - Wednesday, May 05, 2010 at 20:00

Wednesday, May 05, 2010 at 20:00
Hi Phil

It's not the nine dollars that's got me.
It that i have ABS on my 80 series and for the last 6 years have had Nulon extreme Dot4 brake fluid in the system .
Not even a where that it should be pacificly only Dot 3, Doh.
Thought brake fluid was brake fluid?

So far all good with Nulon and will change to Dot 3 ASAP.
Castrol and valvoline make Dot 3.
And Toyotas Dot 3 would either be one of these repackaged.

Even though i am still sceptical about Toyotas recommendations.
I think Penrite has a reputaion to hold as any other manufacture
And has to be certain with what it sells, engine/gear oil included that they wouldn't want there oils to damage seals. would be disastrous for sales.

Rob



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Reply By: Member - Rob S (NSW) - Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 21:51

Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 21:51
Firstly the procedure for changing brake fluid is no different to bleeding air out of the system. Brake fluid requires changing every 2 years or 80,000kms. Brake fluid abosorbs water so not changing it could result in rust in the system.

There are either 4 or 5 points where bleeder valves are installed, one in each front caliper, one in each rear caliper or wheel cylinder(drum brakes) and one on models with the load sensing proportioning valve.

Make sure the fluid reservoir is full and during the process do not let the level drop below 1/3.

I use a piece of clear tubing to go over the bleeder valve and run it to an empty container to catch the waste.

Always start at the bleed furtherest away from the master cylinder and work your way towards the closest. So this means, left rear, then right rear, then load sensing valve, left front and finally right front.

The procedure is the same for every bleed valve. Have someone sitting in the car to depress the brake pedal, once they have pressure on the brakes crack open the bleed valve. When the fluid flow stops close the valve and have your assistant take there foot of the brake pedal. Once the valve is cracked open the brake pedal will go to the floor, this is because all the pressure has now gone out of the open bleeder valve. Try to avoid lifting the brake pedal with the bleeder valve open as this may suck air into the system.

Simply repeat this proccess until there is either no air coming out or the fluid is running clean (depending on what your doing). Once the first valve is done then move onto the next.

If flushing the left rear takes a while for the clean fluid to reach it, so be patient it will get there. You should go through about 500ml to do this bit

Its also a good idea to do the clutch fluid at the same time. Its exactly the same proccess, exept you'll have to manually lift the clutch pedal from the floor - and dont bleed the valve more than 3 times in a row as the clutch reservoir is small and youll emtpy it. And the clutch only takes around 9 bleeds to get new fluid through - I gave it 12 to be sure.

Dont reuse old fluid even thou it might look good, throw it out.

Lastly, just remember this is your brakes and if you have any dought doing this job, either pay someone to do it or find someone who will do it for a carton


Rob


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and that's when I thought I was wrong!

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AnswerID: 415041

Follow Up By: Member - Nick (TAS) - Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 08:02

Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 08:02
As above Rob, right for normal brake systems but not for ABS models.Totally differant bleed on them.
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FollowupID: 685245

Follow Up By: Member - Toyocrusa (NSW) - Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 10:20

Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 10:20
100 series have an elecronic pressure/abs system. Please read my answer 2 to bleed this system. Bob.
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FollowupID: 685255

Reply By: Members Paul and Melissa (VIC) - Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 22:20

Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 22:20
Just Buy the Toyota Dot 3, same price if not cheaper than buying at autobarn or similar and is 110% correct. i have suffered the swelling of seals in the master and calipers, and the m/cylinder dont come cheap
AnswerID: 415046

Reply By: maccax7 - Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 22:22

Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 22:22
Be very careful. I have been told by my mechanic to use ONLY GENUINE TOYOTA brake fluid.
Failure to do so will ruin the ABS pump
Looking forward to every weekend being a looong weekend

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AnswerID: 415047

Reply By: MrBitchi (QLD) - Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 09:03

Sunday, May 02, 2010 at 09:03
The easiest way to replace brake fluid in ANY vehicle is to drive it down to your nearest ABS franchise (or similar) where they will do the whole lot for about $50 in about an hour. Not worth mucking around with it yourself.
AnswerID: 415076

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