Electric Brake Controllers - power coming out the back?
Submitted: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 21:48
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amartin1
My poor husband has spent many a late night after work trying to solve the problem with our electric brakes before we head to
Coral Bay on Friday. He discovered that the volts coming off at the van magnet was only 2 so we replaced all the wiring from the plug and both electromagnets. Still no better. Then he checked the power going into the back fo the controller and it was 12, yet coming out of the controller was less than 3. Now I read that the HR controllers are not
well regarded, does replacing the 18 month old controller solve the problem? Our old Tekonska died a while ago and we replaced it with HR, like many others, it was sold to us by caravan repair
shop as you beaut!
And ever since he did that now the brake lights wont work on the back of the van- I swear there are gremlins at work!
So I am hoping that there will be someone around tonight who can help. My plan is to take the car into a caravan dealer tommorrow and pick their mechanics brain and maybe buy another damn controller!!! We have fully renovated a 1976
York 18 ft , it now looks brand new inside thanks to my very clever retired father. Very keen to take it on its first big trip end of this week, our kids, 5 and 7 are beside themselves, if we cannot solve this problem though will not be going off the driveway so hoping you guys have some ideas.
Reply By: Member - Fred B (NT) - Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 21:58
Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 21:58
You really need "AutoSparky" as there are so many factors to consider with a brake controller. Its probably the quickest way to solve the problem.
regards
AnswerID:
416338
Follow Up By: Member - Doug T (NT) - Wednesday, May 12, 2010 at 07:42
Wednesday, May 12, 2010 at 07:42
And I know your talking from experience , hows your setup, found the problem yet.
.
FollowupID:
686480
Reply By: Dennis Ellery - Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 22:11
Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 22:11
If your husband has limited electrical knowledge he will need a competent auto electrician to sort it out. It’s not a major project. The problem may be the controller, the plug, bad connections, whatever. These faults require trouble shooting by someone on the job – not by guesswork on the internet.
Best of luck
AnswerID:
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Reply By: amartin1 - Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 22:25
Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 22:25
My hubbys autosparky knowledge is way above the average as he is a mechanical fitter who does a fair bit of it at work on large earthmoving equipment. Really hoping someone can confirm what power should be coming out the back of the controller to confirm that it is stuffed!
Cheers
AnswerID:
416347
Reply By: GerryP - Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 22:31
Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 22:31
Depending on the type of controller, generally the voltage will be very low while you are at a standstill. Only when you are decelerating and the pendulum inside the controller registers a deceleration, will the controller apply a higher voltage. Are you sure there is in fact anything wrong at all.
What happens when you pull the manual lever across? does that apply a higher voltage? What happens when you are driving and apply the brakes? Can you feel the trailer brakes at all?
I reckon if you have any doubts, go with the previous suggestions and have it checked out.
Cheers
Gerry
AnswerID:
416348
Follow Up By: Nomadic Navara - Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 23:50
Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 23:50
Gerry - the HR controllers do not have a pendulum. That is why most of us do not like them.
PeterD
FollowupID:
686474
Follow Up By: mrcv8 - Wednesday, May 12, 2010 at 08:38
Wednesday, May 12, 2010 at 08:38
Peter,
I think you need to do some more research because Hayman Reese have had a pendulum controller out for a while now.
Do a google on the hayman reese Guardian.
Col
FollowupID:
686484
Reply By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 22:40
Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 22:40
The controller may have 12 volts when turned on with no load ( not plugged in to the magnets) but may drop to 2 volts if the unit is faulty and under load. A faulty HR controller can do that , it happened to me some time back. I replaced the unit and away it went.. HR units are not rubbish, they are just very basic units that work on Variable voltage to give a variable output MIchael
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AnswerID:
416349
Reply By: Crackles - Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 22:42
Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 22:42
Brake controllers put out a variable voltage depending on the angle of the pendulum (If fitted) & the amount of gain you dial up. My P3 controller for example can vary the voltage from .3 to 12.9 volts. What you need to do is
test the voltage at the plug while adjusting the output controll or the manual over-ride. If this doesn't change anything I'd
check it's been wired correctly or go a new controller. If the volts are now changing then the problem may be in the van & as a start I always look for a bad earth (which may also explain the brake lights not working?)
Do the caravan brakes work on someone elses car or does your controller work on another van? A quick way to tell which end the problem is. Also there are some model cars that require special wiring of the controllers & are often listed on the fitting instructions. Worth a
check.
A matter of illiminating all the possibilities one at a time.
Good luck Cheers Craig.........
AnswerID:
416350
Follow Up By: Nomadic Navara - Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 23:53
Tuesday, May 11, 2010 at 23:53
See my FollowUp to Reply 4.
PeterD
FollowupID:
686475
Reply By: Member - Bucky - Wednesday, May 12, 2010 at 05:48
Wednesday, May 12, 2010 at 05:48
amartin1
Do you run an earth wire back to the battery, that powers your controller.
I have found that this helps establish e propper curcuit, and then the controller distributed the power to the magnets.
Cheers Bucky
AnswerID:
416359
Reply By: Matt(WA) - Wednesday, May 12, 2010 at 08:47
Wednesday, May 12, 2010 at 08:47
1. Get rid of the Crappy HR controller.
2. Get yourself a Tekonsha Prodigy.
3. Run 5mm2 Twin sheath from the battery, making sure that the Positive is run through a 25 amp Circuit Breaker.
4. Solder all connections to brake controller.
5. Make sure that you have connected up to the brake switch +.
6. Put a
test light in Plug Hole no.5 in you trailer plug on the back of the car. Get someont to sit in the car and slide brake controller manual over ride across. You will notice that the
test light goes from dull to
bright.
7. Hook up to your van and
test.
Matt(From someone who works in the industry)
AnswerID:
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Reply By: amartin1 - Wednesday, May 12, 2010 at 23:10
Wednesday, May 12, 2010 at 23:10
Greatly appreciate all your comments, followed Matts advice and bought a new one today, had it couriered down from
Perth. Hubby got it installed but have not yet have time to
test it, fingers crossed it will work okay. I have the docket for the controller and it is only 14 months old, website says warranty is 3 years, first call to Hayman Recces, the woman did not want to know. Basically told me stiff bikkies! She said the only way to get it looked at was to take it to an accreditied installer, none in Bunbury though, would have to take it to
Perth, didn't care that we were getting ready to go on holidays. I rang back though later, crabby really, and got a much better bloke who contacted their QA dept asn is going to follow it up, so fingers crossed we will get something back, and that the new one will work.
AnswerID:
416485
Follow Up By: Matt(WA) - Thursday, May 13, 2010 at 08:48
Thursday, May 13, 2010 at 08:48
If installed in the right angle range you will never have a problem with the Prodigy. They are a great controller.
Good luck
Matt
FollowupID:
686622