What fusible link

Thanks. Wouldn't the voltage drop be quite high doing that?

No - fusible links are for high current applications. Their voltage drop is not an issue. You might find the follwing gives a little more info:
http://whiteproducts.com/fusible-faqs.shtml

Thanks. Checked them out and with holder are pretty dear. Would go with the maxi fuse in stead, if I go down this path. If I knew someone with an account I'll be they would be 50% cheaper.

I'm running 2B&S cable to the back for all the toys so wire is ok.

Why do you say fusible links are hit and miss?

Some use fuse/link similar to the narva's. They wouldn't be length dependant.

Fuseable links are more designed for slow blow applications like electric motors that have a high start current then the run current or a short period variable load, a fuseable link will allow for the high start current and still offer some sort of crude circuit / cable protection.

A fuseable link should not ever be used a the only means of equipment protection unless like above.

Fuseable links are more prone to breakage and corrosion issues.

Terminating a fuseable link to 2B&S cable would be very difficult to achieve reliably and correctly.

You have spent good money and gone over board by using 2B&S cable so why skimp in the cable protection?

You say you need 100 amps down the back....what are you running.

I take it you are going to fuse the gear you are running down the back individually.

You can buy a cheap Narva megafuse holder and fuse for about $35.00, we don't use the Narva brand but use a more expensive E-max ones out of the USA.

Using fuseable links to protect a cable is not really an industry acceptable way anymore.

You could get away with it but you might be better off doing it right the first time.

Forgot to add most fuseable links are calculated ate 150mm

Fusible Links are the method preferred by vehicle manufacturers for high current wiring and are supplied with the quality isolator kits such as Rotronics.

The only way a vehicle will catch on fire is if the fusible link can carry more amps than the 2Ga wire that Austravel is using - thats not possible.

Most newish vehicles for the last 10 years including trucks and earthmoving have been using fuses of one type or the other.

Fuseable links were used and still used in some vehicles due cheapness and ease of installation on an assembly line.

By the way I think from memory Narva stopped supplying fuseable link material about 6 months ago due to lack of demand.

I think low-current wire-type fusible links have gone out of fashion for safety reasons. (Plus their ridiculous 13A to ~40A ratings in early days.)

These days plastic fuselinks are almost universal up to 100A or 120A, though usually 50A & above the bolt-ins are preferred over the pluggables.

For higher ratings, usually ANL fuses are used (100A - 250A) else HRC fuses or even circuit breakers.

Glass types (like the 3AG and their high-current cousins) are out of favour due to reliability - especially with the onslaught of low-quality unit - as well as rugged environments. Single-piece fuses like blade & ANLs are hence preferred.

I believe it because I worked out the max current draw of all my gear. That is if it was all running together which is a real possibity. Two ARB compressors = 60amps at max pressure + other gear.

So if one fuse blows, you lose the lot?

That's merely a consideration - fusing is related to distribution.
Usually parallel paths are used so that one does not effect the other.
Rarely these days is a "master" fuse used in automotive systems, nor domestic (except for the "drop dead" house-supply fuse).

The fuse I'm wanting to fit is to protect the main feed wire to the rear canopy. From this point it goes to a fuse box for distribution to each item.

That's fine. Sorry - I assumed frontal or local splits...

The fuse or CB "must not" exceed the cable's rating, though it can be smaller...
IE - a 100A fuse for a cable greater than 100A (eg, 200A) etc, to supply a load under 100A (usually under 70% of rating - ie, a 70A "average" load; 100A max). This is often done when trying to minimise voltage drops.

(The inexperienced often misunderstand "the fuse must be sized for its downstream cable" to mean "equal". It really means the fuse shall not exceed the cables rating.)

Thanks for the explaination. I'm using 2B&S for the main feed wire. Will probably just look at an ANL fuse or similar, maybe ebay.

Jaycar have that item for $26.95. Just picked one up today,