What fusible link

Submitted: Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 12:48
ThreadID: 78658 Views:6277 Replies:6 FollowUps:15
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Hi,

Was given a good idea for a cheap high current fuse. Any ideas on which vehicle, old or new, uses easy to modify fusible links? So fusible links that may already have lugs on or easy to modify. I can then use it for fusing a cable running to the canopy. Need something like 100 + amps.

Must be some vehicles at the wreckers that will suit but don't even know where to start looking.

Thanks
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Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 13:01

Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 13:01
Narva makes fusible link wire - you buy a meter of it for about $10. Biggest is 14gauge. For 100amps, you'll need three pieces in parallel - each about 3 inches long. Just crimp a quality connector to each end (don't solder). Autoelectricians or companies that have the full Narva range (eg Motor Traders in Adelaide). I've been using this type of fusible link for years.

http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/fuse-link-wire
AnswerID: 417653

Follow Up By: Austravel - Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 14:16

Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 14:16
Thanks. Wouldn't the voltage drop be quite high doing that?
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 15:26

Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 15:26
No - fusible links are for high current applications. Their voltage drop is not an issue. You might find the follwing gives a little more info:
http://whiteproducts.com/fusible-faqs.shtml
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Reply By: blue one - Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 13:10

Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 13:10
You can buy a HRC (High Rupture Capacity) carrier, wedge and fuse cartridge from an electrical wholesaler. The fuse cartridge works faster that a circuit breaker and are used extensively in the industry.

You sure about 100 amps? If so check the wiring you are using and make sure it's rated.

Cheers
AnswerID: 417654

Follow Up By: Austravel - Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 14:19

Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 14:19
Thanks. Checked them out and with holder are pretty dear. Would go with the maxi fuse in stead, if I go down this path. If I knew someone with an account I'll be they would be 50% cheaper.

I'm running 2B&S cable to the back for all the toys so wire is ok.
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Reply By: olcoolone - Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 13:25

Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 13:25
No really the right way to do it, fuseable link are calculated on the length and colour.

Using a fuseable link is a bit hit and miss and is it really worth saving $20.00 as opposed to your vehicle catching on fire

Maybe you should inform the person who told you.



AnswerID: 417655

Follow Up By: Austravel - Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 14:21

Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 14:21
Why do you say fusible links are hit and miss?

Some use fuse/link similar to the narva's. They wouldn't be length dependant.
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FollowupID: 687744

Follow Up By: olcoolone - Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 15:10

Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 15:10
Fuseable links are more designed for slow blow applications like electric motors that have a high start current then the run current or a short period variable load, a fuseable link will allow for the high start current and still offer some sort of crude circuit / cable protection.

A fuseable link should not ever be used a the only means of equipment protection unless like above.

Fuseable links are more prone to breakage and corrosion issues.

Terminating a fuseable link to 2B&S cable would be very difficult to achieve reliably and correctly.

You have spent good money and gone over board by using 2B&S cable so why skimp in the cable protection?

You say you need 100 amps down the back....what are you running.

I take it you are going to fuse the gear you are running down the back individually.

You can buy a cheap Narva megafuse holder and fuse for about $35.00, we don't use the Narva brand but use a more expensive E-max ones out of the USA.

Using fuseable links to protect a cable is not really an industry acceptable way anymore.

You could get away with it but you might be better off doing it right the first time.



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Follow Up By: olcoolone - Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 15:12

Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 15:12
Forgot to add most fuseable links are calculated ate 150mm
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 15:13

Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 15:13
Fusible Links are the method preferred by vehicle manufacturers for high current wiring and are supplied with the quality isolator kits such as Rotronics.

The only way a vehicle will catch on fire is if the fusible link can carry more amps than the 2Ga wire that Austravel is using - thats not possible.
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Follow Up By: olcoolone - Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 15:25

Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 15:25
Most newish vehicles for the last 10 years including trucks and earthmoving have been using fuses of one type or the other.

Fuseable links were used and still used in some vehicles due cheapness and ease of installation on an assembly line.

By the way I think from memory Narva stopped supplying fuseable link material about 6 months ago due to lack of demand.






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Follow Up By: ChipPunk - Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 16:45

Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 16:45
I think low-current wire-type fusible links have gone out of fashion for safety reasons. (Plus their ridiculous 13A to ~40A ratings in early days.)

These days plastic fuselinks are almost universal up to 100A or 120A, though usually 50A & above the bolt-ins are preferred over the pluggables.

For higher ratings, usually ANL fuses are used (100A - 250A) else HRC fuses or even circuit breakers.

Glass types (like the 3AG and their high-current cousins) are out of favour due to reliability - especially with the onslaught of low-quality unit - as well as rugged environments. Single-piece fuses like blade & ANLs are hence preferred.
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Reply By: Maîneÿ . . .- Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 16:49

Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 16:49
Austravel,
Why do you believe you need something like 100 + amps ??

Maîneÿ . . .
AnswerID: 417684

Follow Up By: Austravel - Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 22:39

Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 22:39
I believe it because I worked out the max current draw of all my gear. That is if it was all running together which is a real possibity. Two ARB compressors = 60amps at max pressure + other gear.
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Follow Up By: ChipPunk - Monday, May 24, 2010 at 18:24

Monday, May 24, 2010 at 18:24
So if one fuse blows, you lose the lot?

That's merely a consideration - fusing is related to distribution.
Usually parallel paths are used so that one does not effect the other.
Rarely these days is a "master" fuse used in automotive systems, nor domestic (except for the "drop dead" house-supply fuse).
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Follow Up By: Austravel - Monday, May 24, 2010 at 21:51

Monday, May 24, 2010 at 21:51
The fuse I'm wanting to fit is to protect the main feed wire to the rear canopy. From this point it goes to a fuse box for distribution to each item.
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Follow Up By: ChipPunk - Tuesday, May 25, 2010 at 00:22

Tuesday, May 25, 2010 at 00:22
That's fine. Sorry - I assumed frontal or local splits...

The fuse or CB "must not" exceed the cable's rating, though it can be smaller...
IE - a 100A fuse for a cable greater than 100A (eg, 200A) etc, to supply a load under 100A (usually under 70% of rating - ie, a 70A "average" load; 100A max). This is often done when trying to minimise voltage drops.

(The inexperienced often misunderstand "the fuse must be sized for its downstream cable" to mean "equal". It really means the fuse shall not exceed the cables rating.)
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Follow Up By: Austravel - Tuesday, May 25, 2010 at 09:12

Tuesday, May 25, 2010 at 09:12
Thanks for the explaination. I'm using 2B&S for the main feed wire. Will probably just look at an ANL fuse or similar, maybe ebay.
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Reply By: GlennD - Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 20:19

Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 20:19
Hi ,

Check eBay item 200421475142 .

Just got one of these .
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Follow Up By: silvajon - Monday, May 24, 2010 at 17:16

Monday, May 24, 2010 at 17:16
Jaycar have that item for $26.95. Just picked one up today,
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Reply By: Austravel - Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 22:39

Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 22:39
Thanks everyone.
AnswerID: 417736

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