80 series HZJ80 1HZ Overheating
Submitted: Wednesday, Jul 14, 2010 at 21:42
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80seriescruiser
Hi fellas,
I have the diesel HZJ80 1993 model and yup, she's a overheating. Was all fine until I started towing my boat (trailer + boat = about 700kg) when after about 80 km/h the temperature would rise and eventually lead to water boiling out of the overflow bottle.
Replaced the thermostat with genuine Toyota, new top and bottom radiator hoses, had the radiator flushed out by a radiator place, replaced the fan clutch and I drained the oil out of the new clutch and put in the Toyota silicone oil, new coolant, new fan belts.
Now its progressed to overheating when I am driving the car alone over 80 km/h without the trailer on.
Any thoughts on what it could be next? No leaking from the water pump but I'm thinking there next ?
Thanks.
Reply By: Joe n Mel - Wednesday, Jul 14, 2010 at 22:24
Wednesday, Jul 14, 2010 at 22:24
sounds a lot like
mine, started heading up from Katanning, fine down low speeds and slowly worse as the days went by, started to get hot at 110 in cold RAIN ..............
1st did thermostat in
perth, it was not opening fully, better but still getting hot.. (June)
2nd fitted sh radiator from wreckers in
Perth, helped heaps, made it to
Tom Price... Got hotter at
Broome .....
Long story cut short..
Broome,
Darwin,
Alice Springs and halfway up the Tanimi for 3 months, was summer by then and all started getting hot again...soooo..
Got brand new radiator and fitted, new thermostat (again) and complete set of hoses and belts and re-oiled up the fan clutch and fitted watch-dog.... went heaps better but could not handle the REALLY hot days with A/c ....
Travelled back up to
Darwin and back down to Booraloola and got a brand new fan clutch and it is as cool as a cucumber now, loaded, ac, 3 kids and camper ....
So from my experiance and all other posts i have read..... get a brand new radiator (exactly the same "original"), new t/stat, new hoses, new belts, new coolant, and finally buy a NEW and TOYOTA original fan hub, dont touch it just install as is and providing you dont have a cracked head you will have no further problems, if the head is cracked you will still need to do all above anyway if you want it to last....
Cheers matey and good luck......
AnswerID:
424069
Follow Up By: 80seriescruiser - Wednesday, Jul 14, 2010 at 22:46
Wednesday, Jul 14, 2010 at 22:46
Going with a new water pump tomorrow. I've done 200,000k in the beast and not touched the water pump so its due anyway. Bit of a job pulling off the timing belt. Did the water pump in a 40 series about 5 years ago, a 5 min job, didnt have to touch anything, pull off bolt on new one. Anyway, I will use a genuine water pump and if that doesnt work, hmmm, I'll have to think some more . . . .
FollowupID:
694494
Follow Up By: mechpete - Thursday, Jul 15, 2010 at 16:04
Thursday, Jul 15, 2010 at 16:04
in all my 40 yrs in the mechanical trade ,I have never seen a water pump
with a slipping impeller or the pump itself causing an overheating issue
other than a leaking sealing causing loss of coolant .
, yes fan clutches are a big problem on toyotas bye only genuine .
cheers Pete
FollowupID:
694539
Reply By: Member - Serendipity(WA) - Thursday, Jul 15, 2010 at 00:53
Thursday, Jul 15, 2010 at 00:53
After checking the usual cuprits for over heating - and it looks like you are onto these ones - the motor can over heat for a number of reasons already listed.
Usual cuprits are the radiator flow, colapsed hoses, poor water pump, blocked water jackets on motor. But usually there are tell tale signs of these and they build up with regular overheating problems.
Yours sounds much like an issue I had with my HJ75. Ran fine until one day a cop pulled me over and said I was blowing white smoke after taking off at the lights. This I had never noticed before and had no explanation at the time. Motor seemed to run alright.
That weekend we packed up the camper for a weekend away. Barely got 3 km down the freeway and the car over heated. Strange. Pulled over and let it cool off a bit at idle and took off again at 100km/h and bingo -over heated again.
Result - Mechanic found I had blown the rings in one piston. $5000 later I had a complete rebuilt motor. Very hard to deal with that cost at the time but with a blown motor a car is really worthless.
Looking back now I had the option of putting a turbo diesel motor in rather than the rebuild for a cost of $11 000 fitted. Should have done that but just struggled with that kind of money outlay.
Years later I spent $8000 and put the turbo diesel in - and what a difference. Just a world of difference and wished I had spent the money all those years earlier and had been driving around at real speed with better economy. So for 10 years drove with naturally aspirated and then 5 years with turbo in same car. Hind sight is a fickle thing.
David
AnswerID:
424080
Reply By: Hairs & Fysh - Thursday, Jul 15, 2010 at 08:19
Thursday, Jul 15, 2010 at 08:19
Hi,
Stat with replacing the Silicone grease in the fan clutch, You can buy this from you local Toyota dealer, about $70 I think, It is a common problem with the early 80's.
You mentioned symptoms of a head gasket? Is your coolant system pressurizing more than normal?
Is there fine bubbles in the top tank of the radiator with the cap off? are you losing coolant? Because these are the usual signs of a warped head or head gasket problem.
I'd try the fan clutch first.
Hope you find it.
AnswerID:
424089
Reply By: Member No 1- Thursday, Jul 15, 2010 at 09:08
Thursday, Jul 15, 2010 at 09:08
I'm with Amy and Phil above
I had a radiator problem on an old 100 series just out of warranty
....found the core blocked with crap...err like a allot scale.....replaced and all ok
the coolant was supposedly replaced at its prescribed time ...what actually was this...they (the mob with a goanna as their logo) replaced coolant with a different type, without correctly flushing old stuff out which when combined reacted attacking alloy radiator...god only knows what it did to the engine side of it....it is a common problem going by the mob who replaced the radiator...i took up the issue, got some info from them but they then went very quiet and refused to talk when they realised where I was going
anyway
check the PH of your coolant
AnswerID:
424096
Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Thursday, Jul 15, 2010 at 11:49
Thursday, Jul 15, 2010 at 11:49
I'm with MN1 too :-)
Mixing coolants causes the tubes to block. The way to stop that is to only use teh genuine Toyota coolant for the life of the vehicle. It really annoys me when friends pay good money for vehicle servicing and the idiots put in some green rubbish into their cooling systems. I have a good friend who owns a number of radiator repair shops in
Adelaide and he says he sees this all the time.
FollowupID:
694516
Reply By: Therifleman - Thursday, Jul 15, 2010 at 12:39
Thursday, Jul 15, 2010 at 12:39
Good Day,some years ago my 80 series was overheating according to the temp. gauge when all else was in order.My mechanic put a temporary,properly calibrated gauge on it & took it for a good run(Mt.Colah to Gosford),all was good on the temporary gauge but the vehicle one was still showing it was overheating.
Well there is a problem with the 80 series temp. gauge & the fuel gauge.It can only be rectified by replacing the fuel gauge,this was done & no more troubles.It may seem far fetched but if you talk to a GOOD!! auto.electrician he may be able to put you on the right track.
Regards,Mick.
AnswerID:
424111