Sunday, Jul 18, 2010 at 19:34
Hello
John,
here are a couple of checks I recommend to do:
measure the voltage of your battery several hours after it's come off the charger, and record it.
Then connect a load of several amps (like a fridge, or a 12V incandescent light bulb of 21W or similar) to the battery.
And the voltmeter goes across it to let you take readings every 10 minutes over a 2 hour time span.
If the voltage holds up above 12,6V under load at the end of the 2 hour period, there is still hope your battery hasn't suffered too much.
Don't get confused about the anti sulphation voltages/pulses etc, this is marketing gimmick.
Your charger starts off with the bulk charging stage with a voltage of up to 14.4~14.8V.
Ideally, the charger should also
check for a shorted out cell, before it applies the full bulk charge voltage.
Some chargers achieve this by sending pulsing current through the battery. This gives the controller enough info about the general state of the battery, and whether or not all cells are intact.
Marketing folks interpret this pulsing as desulphation stage while in reality, this is only a way of testing for the integrity of the battery before subjecting it to the high bulk charging current.
Depending on the state of charge of your battery (say 90% fully charged), this voltage level should be reached within 30 to 60 minutes at the latest.
After another 60 to 120 minutes or so (while the battery absorbs the charge at this voltage level), the charging current should have tapered off sufficiently, causing the charger to drop the voltage back to float level of around 13.6V.
Observe the temperatures carefully because your battery may have dried out to such an extent, that the charging current won't taper off. Thus, the battery gets hotter and hotter while the (dumb, or blindfolded)* charger doesn't notice this and keeps the boost (bulk) voltage up, causing the battery develop even more heat.
If your charger came with a battery temperature sensor, please use it.
Check in the manual, if the charger's got an overriding time limitation on the bulk/absorption stages.
*dumb in this context means, the charger doesn't notice there is anything wrong with the battery.
Blindfolded means, it's got no additional
feedback loop via a battery temperature sensor.
Question: did you ever have some loads connected to your battery while it was being charged?
Just let us know and we'll try to pinpoint the problem.
Best regards, Peter
AnswerID:
424427
Follow Up By: bigjohnbundy - Sunday, Jul 18, 2010 at 21:44
Sunday, Jul 18, 2010 at 21:44
Hi Peter the only devices connected at the time was a tv set top box in standby and an automatic alden satellite system, once again though only in standby, not actually operating.
cheers
John
FollowupID:
694879
Follow Up By: Battery Value Pty Ltd - Sunday, Jul 18, 2010 at 22:28
Sunday, Jul 18, 2010 at 22:28
hmm...Arlec charger huh?
Changes are this little beast has overcharged your battery over time, and the other 15 amp
not-so-smart-either-charger has made it fully go tits up by virtually boiling it dry...
Anyway, I was speculating that the small loads could have fooled the 15A charger into keeping the boost/absorption voltage up for a long time.
Maybe you could find out from your charger's supplier, what the current threshold is for absorption/float switch-over.
If it's lower than the combined load currents of your standby'd gear, then the 15A unit could
well have contributed in a big way to your battery's demise.
Just in case you're going to be in the market soon, for a quality AGM battery, and maybe a bulletproof charger at prices you won't find anywhere else in Australia, pls
check out my profile.
For a quick reply to your questions, just use this
contact form.
Best regards, Peter
FollowupID:
694892