Jette TPMS on Steel valve stems

Submitted: Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 08:20
ThreadID: 80253 Views:4773 Replies:5 FollowUps:4
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After much deliberation I have recently purchased a set of Jette TPMS. They are the type that screw onto the valve stems. I bought these as I have 2 vehicles and wish to be able to swap for major trips.

I have Toyota steel wheels with rubber stems on the LC100 and when the Caps are screwed on they press hard against the metal edge. I consider that it is only a matter of time before I have problems due to vibration and consequent damage. There is no such problem on the Troopy as I have Sunraysia rims and there is plenty of clearance.

I am considering drilling a second hole in LC100 rims and fitting another stem for the TPMS. This will remove the clearance issue and also mean I can easily change tyre pressures without having to unlock the TPMS caps.

Is anyone running this type of TPMS on steel stems? I have a mild concern about the additional vibration/shock over rubber stems and also the different radio pickup due to the steel stem, better or worse?

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Reply By: vk1dx - Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 08:34

Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 08:34
I hope they are only for monitoring on the bitumen. They could be knocked off on the first bush track and you could end up with flat tyres.

We even had some simple extensions knocked off.

AnswerID: 424964

Reply By: Ozrover - Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 08:35

Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 08:35

I have done this after seeing it on a customers car & it works a treat!

Just make sure when you fit the 2nd valve stem, use a short one off a quad bike so it doesn't wobble around too much.

AnswerID: 424965

Reply By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 09:36

Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 09:36
I have had a similar system for 2 years.
As you say on the cruiser they tend to touch the rim. Mine are still going after about 65,000k.
Two need new batteries but all still work.
The 4 I have had on two different vans didnt touch the rims and were on rubber valves still work fine as well.
Had to buy a relay box as on the Roadstar the L/H ones tended to drop out, probably due to the amount of metal between senders and receiver.

Havent done any hardcore tracks but have been off road in scrub and sand and mud and none are damaged.

Mine have cover caps for the senders but i got sick of unscrewing them so just run the bare sensors Havent had any probs and they are still dry inside.

AnswerID: 424974

Reply By: Member - Alastair D (NSW) - Saturday, Jul 24, 2010 at 09:15

Saturday, Jul 24, 2010 at 09:15
Thanks for the replies.

The nice thing about the Toyota steel wheels is that the stems are inside the centre hence protected a lot.

I have the kit with 6 sensors and booster for when I tow the camper.

I think I will proceed with the second stem on the LC100.

AnswerID: 425056

Reply By: Member - Richard C (ACT) - Saturday, Jul 24, 2010 at 10:35

Saturday, Jul 24, 2010 at 10:35
Before going to any trouble i would run them for a few months to make sure they are working OK.

I had a set of the 400c ones (from memory) with a booster and was very disappointed with them.

I had the controller replaced once, bought new sensors and and replaced the batteries in the sensors a few times within a 12 month perid. In the end no joy and I have stopped using them.

It may be just my experience with them but just make sure they do work over an extended period before going to the trouble you are talking about.

AnswerID: 425067

Follow Up By: Roach"ee" - Saturday, Jul 24, 2010 at 13:39

Saturday, Jul 24, 2010 at 13:39
Like you, I had an early set of the Jette 400s and have got rid of them now. One broke off altogether on a dirt road north of Iron Knob (not a really rough track) and another one broke off at the stem. They were replaced free by Derek from ABR, but the other thing I found with them is that they were a damned nuisance on a vehicle where you often adjust tyre pressures. Probably okay for a highway vehicle with fairly constant tyre pressures.

Being an old bloke, I found it would take over 15 minutes after dropping/raising pressures, to muck around with the controller thing inside the cab and get it re-set to the newly set pressures. Too much beeping as you drive along too, as one or more sensors would lose it's signal from time to time.

I still like the idea of the monitors and will buy another set IF/WHEN:

The cab-mounted monitor automatically sets itself to the pressure that actually exists in the tyres. So, in my mind, the perfect system would involve:
1). You get in your vehicle after having screwed the sensors onto the valve stems (I would use the extra set of valve stems fitted to the rims in such a way that the sensors were totally protected from stones etc).
2). You press and hold-down a button (or 2 buttons if need be), and wait for several seconds.....the cab-mounted monitor would be using this period of time to "search" for the signal from each monitor and in turn would register the existing tyre pressure as the "base-line" that it needs to work from.
3). You arrive at a sandy spot (or wahtever) and decide you need to adjust your pressures.
4). You get out of your vehicle and use your chosen tool (mine is called a Ferrett tyre deflator...GREAT) to reduce the pressures; check with gauge if you need to.
5). Repeat step 1

I suggested this type of system to Derek at ABR and his advice was that it would be too complicated to produce such a system.... I reckon it's only a matter of time.
FollowupID: 695585

Follow Up By: Member - Richard C (ACT) - Saturday, Jul 24, 2010 at 17:40

Saturday, Jul 24, 2010 at 17:40
Totally agree with your assessment.

On my first outing I wnet for a couple weeks where the bloody things kept beeping at me because the lost contact with the sensors. After this a and lot of hassle I got the controller replaced. I even bought a booster thinking this would help but nup.

My next set of probelms was even worse. I was advised to send the stuff back to China to get tested - at my cost. I ahd already wasted a lot of money on them so was not prepared to do this. In the end it turned out the original batteries needed replacing.

After replacing them the thing worked for 6 months then stopped again. I tried replacing the batteries again but that did not work that time so I have shelved it.

Like you I can see the merit in them but reliability and your suggested improvements or some of need to be a given.

FollowupID: 695606

Follow Up By: Member - Alastair D (NSW) - Sunday, Jul 25, 2010 at 07:37

Sunday, Jul 25, 2010 at 07:37
Your suggestion of a test prior to the modification is a good one and I will do that. It would be very frustrating to go to all the trouble to find that they did not work well.

I have been told by the supplier that the ones I have bought are a new version that has solved some of the earlier issues. We will see.

Re the reseting issue. The annoyance factor of resetting and extraneous beeps was one of the reasons I have delayed so long in buying a set. The manual I have indicates that the current tyre pressure is the default value so by deselecting the sensor and then reselecting should do the trick, but again I will see. Probably another strong reason for do an extended test.

Thanks for the informed feedback.

FollowupID: 695660

Follow Up By: Member - Richard C (ACT) - Sunday, Jul 25, 2010 at 10:45

Sunday, Jul 25, 2010 at 10:45
They always say they have fixed the previous problems - may be they will now reimburse us other poor buggers who bought the earlier ones :)

I did find once I new how reseting the pressure was OK.

I am not sure if this was the right way but I
Undid the sensor and then put back on then reset the pressure.

So you would probably do it at the same time as lowing your pressure in the tyres .

There may be a better way.

I hope they work Ok as they are a good idea.

Who did you get them from?

I think my sensors are stuffed but did not want to invest any more money but may be worth a retest.


FollowupID: 695678

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