100 series front end suspension upgrade

my understanding is that it was the 2002 and earlier 100's IFS that had a problem with the welds on the A frame not completed properly and that it had been addressed after that. Caused by bottoming and/or topping out hard.

But most of the suppliers seem to fit them as part of the package.

G'day Hotfishez,

A few years back I got my 100s supsension upgrade throught ATS in Geelong - I got the diff-drop (similar to Snake Racing diff relocator) and the A-arms strengthened.

My understanding is that the A-arms have a weakness where the welds finish and in some circumstances can give way, causing you to drive home on the bump stop.

The diff drop was fitted to correct the geometry of the axles and CV's - by raising the front suspension the angle is changed from factory so by lowering the diff the geometry is kept the same/close to factory angles.

The diff drop is designed to stop things wearing out quicker than normal - the a-arm fix is designed to stop things breaking.



Tim

What state are u in hotfishez. Apparently illegal up here in Qld to get the drop diff.

I have the Snake dif drop bracket, the ARB strengthening brackets, TJM HD torsion bars and lifted the front about 65mm which is about as high as you can go without ruining the steering and handling. I fitted Bilstein shocks all round as well. The rear has also been attended to as you can see in my profile.

The IFS front end has limits to how far you can lift due to the absence of any way to adjust the castor hence the steering becomes awful if you go too high. Castor bushes only apply to the rigid axle 105 series. There is basically a finite range of movement for the IFS front suspension and cranking up the torsion bars just sets the rest point higher up. The wheel can then move up more when in rough stuff but has less downward movement. This can cause problems when it hits the bump stop hard and has been known to break things.

I would definitley recommend doing the dif drop if you change the ride height far from standard. The CVs quickly get on a significant angle and this generates potential for extra vibration, especially as the CVs wear and also greater chance of breaking if you do any serious off road work. If you can get hold of an old but intact 100 series CV joint and rotate it by hand with the shafts nearly straight and then at near full bend. You can feel a big change in resistance at the diffent points as in goes round. It is possible to almost lock one if you force it to full bend.

After some playing around I am now happy with my settings. Remember if you play with the ride height you need to get the front wheel alignment done if you have changed it by more than a small amount.

Go to a place with experience with 100 series and talk it through. If you don't feel they really understand the issues then go elsewhere. The IFS is very different to the rigid axle 10 series.

cheers