I keep breaking CV's on my 80 even when driving quietly

Agree with Tour Boy,

Use genuine Tojo ones.

Sorry should have mentioned which ones I use.

I use Toyota genuine Japanese ones, the only way to go further are heavy duty ones meant for comps, don't know much about them though and putting them on may mean I break my diffs instead.

If anyone knows much about them, fire away.

I mean it was a short rutted section, deep ruts though and very very greasy

I've done training from basic through to advanced recovery with senior instructors and they train you to help the winch especially when you've got an auto and when you're trying to keep the car moving, rock the wheels left to right.

I've seen thousands of people rock the wheels and never break anything and with me, it's a case of using my hands and head and driving obstacles quietly instead of using my right foot to get up, so it's probably easier on the car at the end of the day.

But yea, some say to never rock the wheels, some say to not help the winch, some say help the winch and rock the wheels, but don't have to front diff lock engaged, I don't know who to believe, so at the end of the day, the best I can do is listen to the four wheel drive specialists that I use and listen to senior 4wd trainers.

The way a couple of them look at it, if my car's not capable of me helping the winch and rocking the wheels slightly for the sidewall to dig in the keep the car moving and not need as much throttle and reduce the load on the winch, then my car is so weak that I shouldn't be taking it off road.

The way another mechanic looks at it, when I was helping the winch, I was reducing load on the winch and halving the chance of breaking it and breaking a winch is just as bad a breaking a CV, and I was reducing load on the batteries and alternator with I suppose is handy.

I'll give your way a shot, you seem so dam sure, but all I can tell you is it's the opposite theory to experienced senior 4wd trainers and experienced 4wd specialist mechanics.

Forget about the one I just broke, look at the one where I was cruising along quietly in snow that a Subaru could do no dramas and it broke.

9 out of 10 people I've told about this believe that there's probably something wrong like a bent diff housing or a broken viscous coupling or something wrong with my genuine diff locks that take forever to turn on and off, something like that and my mechanic currently fixing it agrees and is going to look into it.

Even if the last one I broke is my fault, there's still very likely to be something wrong with my car.

"forget about the one I just broke" If a scooby doo could do it easy then WHY were you in low range with centre diff locked and front and rear diffs locked ? time you learnt how and WHEN to use the traction your vehicle is capable of properly.

Because I was stuck and was winching and wasn't working the car mighty hard while actually in the winching process when it broke.

There's a difference between working the car hard to get up and winching and driving the car a little to help the winch.

It's possible to be on an extreme track (this was medium to hard) and be winching and working the car only a little bit while winching a hard track.

You're missing a very important engineering point - the torque that breaks your car comes from an external source, not an internal.
The winch is dragging your car which is unable to drive. If the driveline is engaged, this process will exert more force on the c.v.'s than driving can. Especially when you make a couple of inches and fall back - again this will create a dynamic load for a millisecond which will snap drivelines. Hence leave it out of gear, get out and winch.

I'd never leave it out of gear and driver trainers are very strict to have it in gear whether it's a manual or an auto because if something goes wrong like the cable breaks, the last thing you want is for the car to be in neutral and if you've got a manual, you just stall the car immediately and secure it.

Every driver trainer out there says to never winch from outside the car, there must always be someone in the drivers seat of each vehicle and preferably get the passengers out especially is snatching because when snatch straps break they normally go directly forwards or backwards and you must try and have it hooked up on the middle or the passenger side of the car with no passengers in it.

If I did what you've suggested, if the cable broke or something like that, the car would go flying back down the hill and the damages would be 100 times worse than breaking a CV and it could kill someone as well and could destroy your mates cars behind you and it doesn't help matters when you're out in the bush and you've got one or maybe more destroyed cars.

I've watched heaps and heaps of theory nights for basic / proficiency training courses done by different driver trainers and a lot of them show a video of an FJ40 who didn't go through the stall stop process properly and his car went flying back down this rocky hill and he couldn't stop and the back of his car hit a tree and he broke the back of the seat and went flying back into the back door and had spinal injuries, if I had it out of gear, that could happen to me.

I've been watching training courses since I was born because my father was a senior instructor for the association training other trainers and working together with people like Mike Smith and I was watching training most weekends when I was a child, not just basic / proficiency, but all your others to like snow and sand and advanced recovery. Eventually I could spell them backwards so much that my clubs asked me to help with the courses when I was 16.

Your theory might be true that helping the winch can break your CV, but on the other hand, about 20 separate driver trainers I've watched through time tell you to help the winch especially with an auto and don't go on and off the cable and this is one advantage with an auto, it's easier to help the winch and that's one reason why more and more comp guys are switching to automatics.

Every driver trainer is sooooo strict to do what I was saying about be in the car with it in gear.

You still dont get that the actual problem is YOUR driving style , YOU dont NEED or WANT your F+R diff locks engaged when your under winch load , let the winch do the work , your snapping CV,s because of the ON/OFF/ON/OFF power . Jerk -jerk -jerk.

Like I said, I agree that what your saying is probably true, but it's still not what very experienced senior 4wd trainers tell you, I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm just saying it's different.

I've seen probably 1000 cases or people helping their winches and haven't broken anything, but I can see where your theory comes from and agree that you may break a CV by helping the winch.