replace cv joint rubbers

Submitted: Monday, Oct 27, 2003 at 11:24
ThreadID: 8115 Views:2309 Replies:3 FollowUps:2
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I am looking at replacing my perished and torn cv joint rubbers before hitting the sand, I have an 1983 L300, so I am thinking these rubbers might be the same ones used in other vehicles like tritons and still be available new. Has anybody had difficulty replacing the rubbers withouth the cv joint?
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Reply By: hoyks - Monday, Oct 27, 2003 at 12:18

Monday, Oct 27, 2003 at 12:18
Here are the edited highlights from Gregory’s 4WD Mechanic. It covers generic stuff for most 4WD, this bit is for Pajeros.

1. Remove wheel and disk stone guard.
2. If doing left hand side, drain diff.
3. Remove calliper
4. Remove drive flange grease cap (whatever that is)
5. Remove drive shaft snap ring
6. Loosen nuts on tie rod end and disconnect from steering knuckle
7. Remove upper and lower nuts from ball joint and disconnect from steering knuckle
8. Position jack under lower control arm, NOT under ball joint
9. Lower jack slightly to remove knuckle from joint
10. Remove shaft from vehicle, careful not to damage the oil seal.
11. Mark shaft to ensure correct alignment prior to diss-assembly

So to replace the boot you have to pull the shaft out of the vehicle. May as well give the joints a good grease and inspection while they are out.

Get a book that gives a rundown on how to do it, I got this one from Big W and although generic is pretty good. Shows common jobs on Pajeros, Hilux, Landcruser and Patrol. Petrol and Diesel.
AnswerID: 35226

Follow Up By: wizzard - Tuesday, Oct 28, 2003 at 09:21

Tuesday, Oct 28, 2003 at 09:21
thanks for that information
FollowupID: 25546

Reply By: Bruiser - Monday, Oct 27, 2003 at 22:21

Monday, Oct 27, 2003 at 22:21
replaced one on my triton got it from repco about $35 with grease thought it was cheap but they told me it was the same as a magna. ithink it was l/h outer the hardest part was splitting the lower balljoint if i remember correctly
AnswerID: 35324

Reply By: zigglemeister - Tuesday, Oct 28, 2003 at 09:11

Tuesday, Oct 28, 2003 at 09:11
I've done this job recently on an L200 (Triton in Aust) which if memory serves me is not too different to the L300. It's a good idea to have two good jacks available, one under the the crossmember and the other to move the lower control arm up or down if necessary when you're trying to reinstall the stub axle after you've put the drive axle (terminology???) back in. The other trick that helped me was to bung a block of wood in the space between the upper control arm and its bump stop, before jacking it up (under the crossmember). This prevented the upper control arm from drooping to its full extent, and gave us more room to play with when we were trying to get it all back together.

One more important thing - it's hard to do, but try very hard to not get grease between the CV joint and the boot when reassembling, and also at the small end of the boot, between the boot and the axle. If you get grease on the surface between the two it is quite likely that the boot will spin relative to the CV when in operation. This puts a twist in the boot, and as it is rotating it will develop a kink where the twist is, and before long it will split at the point where it's kinked and you'll have to do it all again. Take it from someone who found out the hard way... :-(

Tim Z
AnswerID: 35350

Follow Up By: wizzard - Wednesday, Oct 29, 2003 at 11:10

Wednesday, Oct 29, 2003 at 11:10
thx tim
FollowupID: 25681

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