Tekonsha P3 problem
Submitted: Saturday, Nov 20, 2010 at 22:49
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ss--ss
Hi , I've just moved my Tekonsha P3 from my kluger to new prado.. It worked fine in the Kluger towing the same Jayco camper trailer..
Now that I moved it into the prado I turn ithe P3 right up to 15 & the trailer brakes wont lock up, I can barely feel the brakes kick in when I slide the manual brake leaver..
I'm wonder if it's because the camper trailer has just been sitting around for 6 months or the wiring I installed is not up to it . I ran the brake light(red) wire & bluewire with 5mm wire..
Any suggestions appreciated before I start re-doing it.
Cheers Don
Reply By: Dunaruna - Sunday, Nov 21, 2010 at 07:47
Sunday, Nov 21, 2010 at 07:47
Are you getting the correct screen message when you connect the trailer plug? What angle have you mounted the P3? Is it oriented correctly (front to back)?
I would suggest that you double
check your wiring -
Black wire (6mm auto) direct to battery + through a 20 amp thermal auto reset CB.
White wire (3mm) direct to BATTERY earth post, not chassis earth.
Red wire (3mm) to brake light circuit, avoid the brake light switch, best to connect to pin 6 on the plug. This is a reference signal only, no need for 5 or 6 mm wire.
Blue wire direct to pin 5 on the plug. On a single axle trailer, 5mm is o/k.
You may need the toyota trailer loom kit, especially if you have reverse sensors on the tug.
AnswerID:
436508
Follow Up By: ss--ss - Sunday, Nov 21, 2010 at 10:39
Sunday, Nov 21, 2010 at 10:39
Thanks for the reply & suggestions.
I've checked & all wiring seems ok except 5mm from the Battery to the brake controller. And the brake controller is at 80deg top to bottom but dead straight left to right.
I checked & found that when I slide the manual brake lever at the bottom of the tekonsha It pumps out 5.5amps @ 11.5 volts (not sure if this is a lot?) when I go under the camper trailer I can hear the brakes buzz & I measure 2.5amps to each wheel..
Cheers Don
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Lex M (Brisbane) - Sunday, Nov 21, 2010 at 10:51
Sunday, Nov 21, 2010 at 10:51
Don't forget to
check the ground connection back to the car. When you apply the electric brakes all the current from the brakes and the brakelights all return through this circuit. I recommend running a ground from the trailer plug to the battery.
FollowupID:
707845
Follow Up By: Dunaruna - Sunday, Nov 21, 2010 at 13:38
Sunday, Nov 21, 2010 at 13:38
With the motor off, the controller will only see (and use) battery voltage. Try running your tests again with the motor running.
2.5 amps at the magnet is good (not excellent), it should stick
well. Sounds to me like the controller is o/k.
FollowupID:
707861
Follow Up By: PradOz - Sunday, Nov 21, 2010 at 18:02
Sunday, Nov 21, 2010 at 18:02
i only just fitted a new P3 controller in my 120 prado and had no issues at all. actually worked very
well compared to the voyager i had before in a 90 series.
Could it be worth trying sitting the P3 unit horizontal somewhere near the gear shift just to
check its nothing to do with the angle. I doubt it is but you just never know.
I think i told you in a previous post i ran the red cable direct to cable on rear LHS light not switch or plug pin. it was my first time installing one (always thought it was a harder job - would be i think playing wioth the brake switch due to the physical position of it) I also used good size cable just in case, but a local auto elec did tell me he never does, never has and it made no difference and "to save my money for something else" when i went in to buy larger size cable from him. So I went elsewhere and got larger cable size i wanted to use, so hopefully its nothing to do with cable size based on his advice to me
good luck and hope it sorts itself as it is a good controller based on my limited experience....
FollowupID:
707890
Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Sunday, Nov 21, 2010 at 19:05
Sunday, Nov 21, 2010 at 19:05
Try adjusting trailer brakes seems a logical thought.
FollowupID:
707896
Follow Up By: ss--ss - Monday, Nov 22, 2010 at 10:42
Monday, Nov 22, 2010 at 10:42
Thanks for
feedback I will have a go at the suggestions this week sometime.
Just another question after I scroll through the troubleshooting menu on the P3.
With Van connected to car - Tekonsha P3 unit connected and full manual control voltage set at 13v. Amperage output indicated at full application reads 5.5 A.
Is this the Maximum a P3 can output or is it determined by how much it can draw from the battery or the amount the electric brakes are able to draw.
I never checked this when it was installed in my previous car so can't really tell.
thxs Don
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Monday, Nov 22, 2010 at 10:52
Monday, Nov 22, 2010 at 10:52
I have a Prodigy and it only has about 3.5 on the screen when hauling the van up hard.
As long as it works is all I worry about.
I do have twin 6mm wiring from Blue wire to rear of car so as to minimise voltage drop Van has 6mm to each brake but then it weighs 2800kg.
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707957
Follow Up By: PradOz - Monday, Nov 22, 2010 at 20:11
Monday, Nov 22, 2010 at 20:11
My P3 is set somewhere around 6.something (cannot remember) and noticed it shows up under 3 when stopping. Actually found using the manual lever stopped me harder (higher number) for some reason - thats not the boost button. Actually found it great going down steep hills etc using that to keep things smooth.
I would
check all wiring and position of unit if the brakes worked ok before they should now so can only think its in something you done.
Mine I simply plugged in after wiring up and off i went. Worked like a charm and can see no reason yours cant too, cheers....
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