MK Triton rear wheel bearing replacement help needed

Roo,

I am sure that you have a bearing that is pressed on to the axle and that it will have to be tapped off or if it is really bad, cut off.

Replacing the bearing you will have to be a bit more careful and make sure it is seated correctly on the axle.

If you have a floating axle, which I doubt, it is a lot easier. The bearings are on a stub axle and hub and not on the axle.

This is from another Toyota driver who loves his floating axles.


Wayne

Hi Roo H. I'm pretty sure there is a castleated nut and lock ring holding the bearing in place which has to be removed first. You will then have to break the outer casing of the bearing to enable removeal of the backing plate. ( Cover the bearing with heavy rag first) once the backing plate is off the inner part of the bearing will either have to be pressed off or carefully ground down to a shell on one side to remove. Instalation is a bit easier but make sure you fit the backing plate on first. There may be a spacer before the bearing as well. Bob

I have a toyota hilux with what sounds like the same rear axel.
Had to send my axel to an auto engineer to have the bearing removed and replaced.Not an easy job to do if you do not have the right jig.
good luck

Ok, desperate times call for desperate measures, so with all the mechanics in town either booked out till after the new year, closed until after the new year, or don't exist any more (even though they're still listed in our local directory which came out over the weekend!), there was only one way to get it done, and that was by doing it myself, slowly! So if it helps anyone else, here's what I did:

First up, I used a 9" grinder with a cutting disc to cut a slice off the collar, as close to the axle as possible. After doing this, I used a 4" grinder with a grinding disc to finish taking metal off the collar until it was thin enough near the axle that I could use a screwdriver to crack it through and relieve it's tightness. After this, I was able to leaver the collar off that part of the axle and away from the bearing. Once the collar was off, I was able to hit the end of the axle with a copper hammer until the bearing came off, which also freed the brake backing plate. Once this was seperated, it was easier to tap the bearing cone out. After that, I tapped the seal out which was between the backing plate & axle hub. The other seals are in the end of the diff tube.
Once all this was done, I degreased everything then had a break!
Oh yeah, before I started I heated my oven up to 290c (my oven doesn't go any higher) & put the new collar in it. Lucky I did too!
Now, before anything, I fitted the new cone & seal, then put the backing plate back on the axle (It's important the backing plate goes on before the bearing 'cone', as these 2 do separate!). Then I put the new bearing on & seated that (as much as it would go). I used a 750mm length of 50mm water pipe & copper hammer to tap the bearing down, though I'd reckon the length would depend on the axle length. Now for the fun part! With the bearing in place, it was time for the collar. With it heated up, I used tongs to take it from the oven on to the axle, put the pipe back on, then took a sledge hammer & with 4 good hits, got the collar down far enough to put the circlip back on. Even at that temp, it was a tight fit!. After it cooled, I put some fresh diff oil on the new bearing, then fitted it back in the diff. Done!

All up it took me about 3.5 hours, but now that I've done it I reckon I could do it again in less than half that time (including re fitting the brakes & bleeding them). I'll be doing the other side in a week or 2, so will take some pics which may help to clarify some of my description.
Hope this helps anyone else with a Triton (or any other 4X4 with a similar set up) in my situation, & all the best for the festive season everyone!