Tanami

Greetings all,
Spied a thread earlier in the piece about Rabbit Flat closing down, im hoping to zip up the Tanami toward Rabbit Flat, then head up to Mt Tanami, followed by heading North East to Wave Hill, (via lajamanu).
Anyone done this of late, any advice for this area?
Am i best of going to Halls Creek and head to Darwin via the Northern Hwy?

Are any services available at Rabbit Flat, (ie camping), or is it simply fully closed down?

Any advice is appreciated!
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Reply By: Member - Marc Luther B (WA) - Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 15:40

Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 15:40
Hi Matt D

I live in Mulan, which is reasonably close to the Tanami, (and CSR for that matter), and I am friends with Bruce and Jacqui from Rabbit Flat. I know they are no longer retailing, I cannot say about camping though, never thought to ask, but I will find out.

You have not said what time of year you are travelling. At the moment there is a lot of inclement weather about. I will be contacting my nephew in Lajamanu very soon, so will find out how things are there and post accordingly.

Cheers
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Follow Up By: Member - matt d (SA) - Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 16:16

Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 16:16
Gday Marc,
Looking to be heading up toward Darwin in the last week in July 2011.

Thanks for your time, all information appreciated!
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Follow Up By: Jeffie - Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 16:38

Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 16:38
matt d.

Stayed at Rabbit Flat in June, in their "Camping Area"???
Just a clearing in the bush and you pay $10.00 to stay there.
Pit toilet and at the time an extra $4.00 each for a shower up at the roadhouse.
Just find a suitable spot off the road and camp there - wont be any worse and wont cost you anything.


Jeff.
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Follow Up By: Member - Marc Luther B (WA) - Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 17:18

Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 17:18
Hi Matt D

As Jeff indicated, the costs for camping there, with no retailing and no fuel now, you would be better fueling at Yuendumu or Lajamanu (200+ kms from Tanami turn off), and camp on the road side somewhere.

There is a large flat area just at the Lajamanu turn off which the wife and I have camped at many time, though on a still night the Groundrush Mine nearby is quite noisy.

The time of year that you are travelling will make the roads dry and the temps quite warm, so no problems there.

Cheers
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Follow Up By: Muddie - Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 18:04

Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 18:04
I pulled into Rabbit Flat in 2006 and it looked very ordinary we just bush camped 20 - 30 klm up the road, went about 1-2 Klm off the track on a bend and headed for some trees which we never really found, but it was a nice spot we could only just hear the trucks.

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Reply By: Gone Bush (WA) - Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 17:40

Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 17:40
We came down from Top Springs through Kalkarindji and Lajemanu last winter (about the same time as you will be travelling this year).

Provided you have dry conditions the track from Tanami Gold Mine north to Top Springs is excellent. Very good campsite off to the left (heading north) about an hour or so north of the Tanami. It's near a billabong and appears well used.

Lajemanu was having a "sorry time" when we passed through and we only spoke to the nurse there. Kalkarindji was nice. Fuel and a good little shop.

Top Springs has a camp ground and a nice pub, and fuel.

It was a very scenic, pleasant drive.

The Tanami Track was the opposite of everything I've said. Harsh, vehicle breaking corrugations, interspersed with teasing stretches of bitumen. You'll wonder why people travel on it.

cheers
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Follow Up By: Member - matt d (SA) - Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 20:10

Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 20:10
Thanks for you input Gone Bush, infact, thankyou everyone!

Campsite to the left, near a Billabong, could it be Coomarie Spring perhaps?

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Follow Up By: Member - Marc Luther B (WA) - Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 20:15

Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 20:15
Hi Matt

That could be Coomarie Spring, but sounds a lot like "Piccannini Bore", which is how the Walpiri mob (Lajamanu people) know it, I do not know the formal name.

You will also go through Supplejack Station, which has a variety of beautiful, unmapped camping spots. The normal tell tale signs, circled rocks where there has been a fire.

Send me an MM if you want a couple of names of people to see in Lajamanu, they will point your nose in the right directions.

Cheers
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Reply By: bluefly - Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 21:18

Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 21:18
Hi matt

I’m assuming you’ll be heading east to west along the Tanami Rd.

You can fill up at Tilmouth Roadhouse which is about 160klms from Alice Springs.

The next possible stop is Yuendumu a bit further along and to the right.

From there the next noticeable feature is a bit of a run up to the Granites mine (I’m not sure what they’re calling themselves this week) on the left hand side. No fuel.

After another 50k’s or so you'lll see a track on the right hand side which leads to Rabbit Flat. Now that it’s closed I doubt if any signage would be noticeable.

Your next fuel stage after leaving Tilmouth is the Aboriginal community of Balgo, which is probably another 100ks from Rabbit Flat and to the left of the road further on.

However if you have enough fuel you might make it to Billiluna, at the start of the Canning Stock Route. After that there is nothing until you get to Halls Creek.

So in summary, it’s a 1,000ks through the bush and will take almost three days depending on conditions. When it’s easy, count on corrugations, but when it’s wet.......

From a personal view, I reckon the country is dead useless for anything until you get over the border. However the tourist think it’s great, so who am I to say anything. Go figure!

PS if you get the chance, camp at Sturt Creek not far from Billiluna. The local people will show you where to go.

Cheers


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Follow Up By: Member - Marc Luther B (WA) - Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 22:08

Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 22:08
Hi Bluefly

Obviously a trip that you remember. Garnites Mine is still called just that, they will help with Fuel in an emergency. Just after Rabbit Flats on the right is the Groundrush Mill, and they have also helped people in an emergency.

Balgo Community is about 45 km's in from the turn off, but it feels like a much larger distance, as that access road makes the Tanami look like a sealed road, it is completely shocking.

I agree about camping at Sturt Creek, though at the moment the water is sitting and it is mosquito city, but generally it is a lovley place to camp. The old Wolfe Creek Roadhouse, at the Wolfe Creek turn off has no facilities, but it is just off the Tanami (literally metres) and affords a bit of shelter for camping.

By the way, the Tanami is quite wet at the moment, therefore quite hazardous.

Cheers
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Follow Up By: Member - matt d (SA) - Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 22:30

Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 22:30
Thanks for that Bluefly,
So it seems to me that that Diesel is no great issue, ive got standard tanks in Troopie, 180lt.

Alice>Tilmouth approx 186km's
Tilmouth>Yuendumu approx 102km's
Yuendumu>Rabbit Flat approx 314km's
Rabbit Flat>Top Springs approx 550km's

So, 1150 kms approx, wont make it to Sturt Creek this time as i have an appointment at Hidden Valley, but hopefully going there will make me wanna go back.......im doing Dalhousie, Chambers Pillar, Finke Gorge etc prior to the Tanami, so im pretty pumped, im travelling alone, (just what i need to destress).

Thanks for your input! :)
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Follow Up By: bluefly - Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 23:10

Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 23:10
Marc

What are you talking about? My little road into Balgo is as smooth as glass. You’re scaring off the travellers! LOL

I often think about that tree opposite the pumps and the talks we had with the old fellars in Balgo. They’d wander over with a big smile and plonk down.

That’s when I learnt about the Gregory an all the outstations.

One day the local copper came over and suggested we go out and shoot a roo, but at the time it was too wet, so we gave up after about an hour. You might remember the bloke, he was a Maori.

He was always in blue Police overalls.

Cheers
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Follow Up By: Member - Marc Luther B (WA) - Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 23:30

Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 23:30
Hi Bluefly

Memory has the first name of Gordon for the local copper that you are talking about, I don't think I ever got his last name. He used to load the car up with kids on the weekends and take them swimming at the rockhole just out of Balgo on the Mulan road.

A couple of the old men you would have been talking to would have been Brandy and Helicopter, and yes, they still sit under a tree, though the pumps no longer operate. Another of the old men was Underbug (bushname) and Larry (the only Aboriginal JP in Balgo). All really lovely old men always willing to sit and share a yarn.

Cheers
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Follow Up By: bluefly - Friday, Jan 07, 2011 at 00:03

Friday, Jan 07, 2011 at 00:03
Thats the bloke I think.

The kids loved him.

He'd take them out to the bush and allow them to fire off a few rounds from the shot gun and the revolver, south of Mulan.

One of the few young blokes I've ever had respect for.

Cheers
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Reply By: Gone Bush (WA) - Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 22:42

Thursday, Jan 06, 2011 at 22:42
Matt, if you "fly" along the Tanami on Google Earth you will see plenty of roadside clearings suitable for camping.

Put your cursor on them and their lat & long will be displayed at the bottom of the screen. Put them into your GPS and pick and choose as you drive along. Do the same with the Lajemanu turnoff. Someone has mis-labeled it and it is actually a few hundred metres further along.

Just a short distance along the road after you leave the Stuart Highway you'll see warning signs on the RHS prohibiting entry. That's the Jindalee Over the Horizon radar. An Aussie invention. Google it. Very interesting.

At Lajemanu there is a solar array that looks like a series of sat dishes. I'm assumimg that they follow the sun. Looks great.

By the way, I drove the Tanami from Halls Creek to Alice in 1994 in a 4.5 litre petrol Troopie and only had to refuel at Rabbit Flat. With a diesel you'll do much better.

cheers
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Follow Up By: Member - matt d (SA) - Friday, Jan 07, 2011 at 16:01

Friday, Jan 07, 2011 at 16:01
Ah yes, you have reminded me of the "OHR" i have long forgotten about "her".
As for the Solar Array near Lajamanu, i believe ive seen it on the odd doccumentary in the past......will keep an eye out for it!

Just had a look at Google Earth, ive noticed the Tanami Mine after Rabbit Flat, it seems the turnoff to Lajamanu is at this mine. (directly after the mine complex).

Been having a look at the Tanami>Lajamanu road on Google Earth, the Satelite picture detail is not good enough to zoom rite in, nevertheless, i think i will keep an eye out for Coomarie Spring for a bit of a rest. :)

Thanks again Gents, you have all eased my mind.
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Follow Up By: Member - matt d (SA) - Friday, Jan 07, 2011 at 16:31

Friday, Jan 07, 2011 at 16:31
How long do you gents think it should take to go from basically Rabbit Flat to Kalkarindjj?

Its approx 370kms.
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Follow Up By: Gone Bush (WA) - Friday, Jan 07, 2011 at 16:42

Friday, Jan 07, 2011 at 16:42
We went from Top Springs south to Rabbit Flat in a day and a half.

Very leisurely, camping at about 3pm.

Included changing a wheel on the van.

I'm glad I ain't too scared to be lazy
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Reply By: Member - matt d (SA) - Sunday, Jan 30, 2011 at 15:45

Sunday, Jan 30, 2011 at 15:45
Gents, unless im reading things incorrectly on other sites, (ie NT Tourist Sites), i get the impression that i wont be needing any permits to travel/camp in the directions that we have been chatting about.

Can any of you confirm this?

Cheers!
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