Don't Cook your engine

For what it's worth I installed the Engine Saver - Low Coolant Alarm + Temp Sensor
Very Happy. Australian made, great service.
I have the dial unit, not the unit with the digital display.

I went for the engine watchdog and have heard only good things about them.

I bumped into a mechanic a while back who says they should be compulsory on all cars especially any off road 4x4.

Craig - Looks like a fine unit but there is no mention of cost on their site. Can you enlighten me?

Don't remember the exact cost (under $200 for single kit), just impressed at a demo by an owner. If someone was just after a low water warning I'd think this would be overkill but for real time temp monitoring it seemed pretty accurate & top quality.
Cheers Craig............

Just had a chat with the fella selling these ......

FWIW ... Im probably going to get one of the newer 5 channel versions when they become available in coming weeks ... will double as good diagnostic tool on anything, requiring temperature data.

2ch will be a bit over $200
5ch about $350

Anybody want to buy a used 2ch Engine Watchdog TM-2 ????? ...... LOL

A low water alarm on its own will not alert you to an overheating block

The Enginesaver will.

They are especially useful in Toyotas as the regular Temp gauge does not move until its too late.

As it does not work unless its in water it will not alert you to sudden coolant loss which is what the low coolant alarm does.

However for rising temps due to towing in hot weather or up hills the enginesaver is really good

If you want to be really sure in a Diesel fit an EGT gauge.

Hi Graham,
An EGT gauge is next on my list of things to do.
Have got already the Enginesaver, works a treat, amazing how sensitive it is to different driving conditions when towing.

Have a look on Ebay They are half the price of them here and a good Autometer one as well.

I have a Phantom 5744M and it is a kit about $140 Was quoted $350 here for the same.

Just make sure you ask for a METRIC model and a word to the wise get a BLACK

face one as my white ones reflect in the screen.

Cheers

Cheers Graham,
About $344 with freight now.
Autometer Phantom EGT Pyrometer # 5744-m
Thanks for the heads up.

Thats cos its an Aussie seller

The place I got mine from dont seem to have them any more but look here and ask them for a metric one


http://stores.ebay.com/ihavethebestpriceperformance69/_i.html?_fsub=6822541

About $138 plus postage and thats for the kit with the sender and all

Thanks graham

One could call whats standard as an "idiot" light as sadly usually by the time it comes on then the damage is done. The sensor is usually one of the first things to become exposed when coolant is lost. A sensor exposed to air could give a normal reading but the actual core temp of motor would be way above that as air molecules do not conduct heat as well as water molecules do.
A standard temp gauge is so so .................. a temp light is worthless IMHO

Gday Phil,
As well as being easily missed, the temp gauges are not linear. On a Landcruiser, the needle stays in the same spot whether the temp is 50degrees or 95degrees.

The audible alarms work well on the engine saver.

Most gauges are "dampened" so they dont show the constant fluctuations of the actual coolant temp.

A dash gauge needle flickering through the few degrees on a good cooling system will still have some people worried that their temp is "jumping up & down"

I backstop my dash gauge with a scan gauge taking readings from the same sensor .... dash gauge never moves and consistently reads low ... until its too late ..... while the scangauge shows the actual, degree or two, variations depending on the driving scenario.

I also have a multiple sensor system for various item temps .... but have yet to fit a low water monitor as its a lower priority for me .... overnight leakage would get detected during the morning inspection.

Fine guys. I find we rely on technology too much and get blazei (spelling) about it.

How many of you actually physically touch the gear shift shafts? I bet a very few. Wouldn't it be better to have one on the gearbox and transmission case first.

1. AGNI4x4: Regarding the idiot light, Maybe an idiot is one who doesn't "feel" that the engine is losing power and then boom. There are also two over temp warnings in our car. The gauge and an audible alarm from the computer. I could agree with you on that count. But then again it will lose power before the light comes on so learn to "read" the car.

2. Phil G: Hi again. As far as its being missed I already said how often I check the dash. Thats not missing anything. Sppedo, then clockwise around the gauges to pick up the temp and oil first.

3. OzTroopy: Hi mate. You should know your car. Then any "normal" performance flickers or general rises and falls you can pick as normal. Are you sure you have enough room in the front for them. Hi.

Just my opinion. And its so simple and heaps cheaper. You can also pick up a deflating tyre on the car this was. Know the cars "feel". If it changes down early (we have an auto), why? Touch the gearsticks and look at the dash. Or was that wind. Look at the tress behind you.

These are the things that I was taught when I was a young teenager (age is reserved) driving the grain truck to town. And boy oh boy, have they served me well.

Hang on a tick while I get the flack jacket. But I do feel that we rely on the computer too much. You should watch "Accident Investigations", the plane one, a bit and see how many times the gauges and computers stuff up.

Phil

Exactly a 100 ser gauge does NOT WORK IN AIR and so if you lose water it will
read normal and first indication will be the big bang.

Always remember that when cars are built it is to a price and anything extra cuts into the profit.

So they fit only what is necessary. Hence "idiot" lights instead of working gauges.

The classic that comes to mind is the Ford Pinto where they left out two bracing struts across the rear fuel tank.

The cost per car was about $1.50 at the time of building but when you build over a million its a lot of money.

However it was nowhere near what the court costs were after people got rear ended and the cars fried them.

So the things that are fitted aftermarket are not "gadgets' but replacements for idiot lights.

I also check water and oil and tyres every day. However that doesnt stop a stick flicking up and going through the radiator 10 k down the road.

I prefer to know whats going on and not be an idiot by relying on the said light.

Cheers.....no offence intended to anyone

Hi Graham

Wondered where you were. I feel better now.

That's why I mentioned the other things I use to monitor the engine.

Any idiot can drive a car but only a good river will know if something is amiss with the car before it goes bang. Either by electronic/gadgets or "gut feel". Don't lose your "gut feel" guys.

Phil

FollowupID: 716755 Submitted: Tuesday, Feb 08, 2011 at 09:58
vk1dx posted:
Fine guys. I find we rely on technology too much and get blazei (spelling) about it.

How many of you actually physically touch the gear shift shafts? I bet a very few. Wouldn't it be better to have one on the gearbox and transmission case first.

3. OzTroopy: Hi mate. You should know your car. Then any "normal" performance flickers or general rises and falls you can pick as normal. Are you sure you have enough room in the front for them. Hi.

Just my opinion. And its so simple and heaps cheaper. You can also pick up a deflating tyre on the car this was. Know the cars "feel". If it changes down early (we have an auto), why? Touch the gearsticks and look at the dash. Or was that wind. Look at the tress behind you.
*****************************************

Agree totally with "knowing" your vehicle .... Im big on seat of the pants diagnosis ... LOL

It was a 2' increase in running temp on the scan gauge (compared to normal for the conditions), that led me to a pinhole leak in the radiator recently ..... well before any noticeable stains, or drop in the overflow bottle, or what a low water alarm could do for me. Funny how a slight pressure drop in the system can push the temps up/change boil points, accordingly.

Scan gauge is good ... about as big as a cigarette packet, as is the TM-2 engine watchdog unit I have with two inputs for gearbox/tranny or whatever else I want to hook up to from time to time.

The scangauge is however overkill for me - as trip meters and similiar drivel are unused ... as I "know" how far a tank of fuel gets me .... so probably only 6 of, all the functions ... ever get used. Really only bought the bling thing to access computer fault codes but Ive found a coupla bonuses.

My current gearbox & tranny case levers are linkage operated not direct connection ..... hence the temp sensors I fitted which replaced the ... "owwww I burnt my fingers on the 40series trannycase lever" .... old school method I used to use ... lol

Phil no intention of ruffling ya feathers bloke .......... the note I placed was for the layman as to tell him to "feel" the motor would not mean much. Personally myself I have no problem in feeling or hearing when something is amiss power wise ................ but thats aided by the fact I've worked as a motor mech these past 30 years.
ps To clarify here "idiot" light was in no way mean't as a reference to anyone's ability or lack of ..................... sheesh a man would probably be better of not posting at times.
Cheers

Too true. Too true. Thats why I gave up and went and played with my trains. They made more sense.

Cheers

Phil

This is what I like about forums when you have a problem in your mind, you get alot of good replies some good and some better,its a good job we all have an opinion other wise it would be boring. I listen to every one and make up my mind which way to go. This problem came to light when a friend of mine was travelling along the Forrest H"way in his GO and bang the motor blew, his gauge was off the clock but did not pick it up, $14000 was to much to pay More than the cost of his truck. So a little insurance is OK for the pocket. Its like most things if you got it most time you don't need it Thanks for your inputs

Even with all the toys the best thing you can have is a good pair of eyes and scan what instruments you do have.

Obviously your mate didn't and didn't also take notice of what the car would have been doing like starting to blow a bit of smoke.

I can feel as Vxdx1 says when the car is making a different noise or feels different for some reason but still like the assurance of my instruments and scan them constantly along with the rear view mirror.

cheers

Yes I agree, I been a heavy vehicle driver most of my adult life and knowing your vehicle is important reading gauges and vehicle performance is the way to go

Hi Graham,

in reply to your suggestion that an EGT or Pyrometer is the best to indicate engine temp I have had an Auto Meter Pyrometer fitted for over 12 months now.

I guess you could say you are preaching to the converted. LOL
Cheers Bruce.

No trying to get some of the non believers to come into the fold.


Jesus said ( I think) "None are so blind as those who do not wish to see" ROFL

Is yours before or after Turbo Mine is inn dump pipe and usually runs at 325


Cheers

Hi Graham,
sorry about the delay but I have had computer problems and have just got it sorted.

I tried to send a reply yesterday but I don't think it happened . So I might be doubling up here so apologies if I have.

Yes my EGT probe is in the dump pipe. My temps are close to yours as well. In the ball park anyhow.

I think I might have given the old girl a bit of a work out over the Australia day break as it was bl@@dy hot and we towed the van up over the range to Inverell on Australia day but she never complained just the EGT went up to 600deg. C. a couple of times when pulling up a few hills.

Motor is brand new after a complete rebuild about 4,500 K ago.
Tried to get rid of the 1HD FT tick. Didn't work unfortunately.
Cheers, Bruce.

I reckon 600 is a bit hot

I change down and slow down below 550


Mostly try to stay under 500.

When we were in the west in the heat I removed the inner guard plastic bits to let more air through and it seemed to help a bit.

That was in 45 + temps

Cheers

Yeah I reckon that 600 was a bit hot also that is why I spoke to the guy who rebiult the engine and he thought it might be over fueling but I think the fuel setting is close albeit a little high. Before the rebuild it was good and only got to 500 deg on those occasions when I was pulling hard up a decent hill.
I am thinking that it might be because it has not run in yet and perhaps there is some wear in the turbo. But turbo wear would mean lesser performance and thus slightly cooler temps. The other thing with these dam toyotas is the factory exhaust is choked where it goes over the diff and between the chassis rails. The 2.5 inch pipe is squashed down to about a 1.5 inch pipe. Should think about a 3 inch exhaust but I am having trouble justifying spending anymore money on it at the moment as I have spent a considerable amount on it getting injectors and the motor done up.

Bruce.

A 3" mandrel bent exhaust will fix it. Will give you the dull diameter all the way.

A Beaudesert one fitted in Brisbane cost me just under $1000 and it got more benefit than the chip I put in at the same time.

I have been considering one for some 2 years now but due to the fact that I also have gas fitted it means the exhaust system had to be modofied to be able to place the gas tank directly below the drivers seat. This means I still have the spare under the tail end and keep the original sub tank and all its associated wiring and plumbing that entails. A 3" system for mine will be a little dearer.

The output of your engine would be what I get with gas. The electronic injection on yours gives a further 40 KW of power than a standard 1HD FT fitted to the 80s. I think yours produces 150 KW or there abouts and mine produces 118 in standard form. I have had the pump tweeked just a little and so I am getting better than factory specs. Nothing that has been done resulted in over fueling except that when I had the motor rebuilt recently the mechanic who pulled the motor out and refitted it may have messed with the fuel adjustment thinking he was doing me some favours. Prior to that it was running perfectly with very little black smoke and only showed under heavy pulling conditions. ( hated the black soot down the side of the van). So that is where I think the high EGT temps are coming from.

I also should have a snorkel but there again it is all money and I have to watch the pennies at the moment till I get on the government payroll which occurs in late May. Then I will reconsider my priorities.
Cheers, Bruce.