Coupling up to a Tregg Hitch

Have you tried a smaller diameter rod about 600mm long to line the hole up in the hitch easier.

You casn also use a fence post, crow bar, or shovel to line the drawer bar up first.

Cheers.

kwk56pt,

I don't say this to put you down or to make myself seem good but I have had a Tregg Hitch on my camper since 1996 and I have never had a problem.Mine is on a Trak Shak, fully loaded it weighs in at about 1100kg.

I back the car into place close to the coupling. I take my time with this to make sure I am as close as possible. I then adjust the height of the trailer using the jockey wheel. I have to hold the poly=block to line up with the other part of the coupling and then push it across with either a hand or my knee and then drop the pin into place.

I know it can be difficult to get the tow bar and the trailer coupling close together but with practice it can be done. I have learned the marks on the trailer so I can line it up from most angles and I know where my tow bar is on the car.

Perhaps if you are having difficulty you could place a hard board, plywood or similar on the ground under the jockey wheel. This would allow you to move the trailer around easily, at least a little. My other suggestion is to lighten the load on the jockey wheel. Even if it is only while you make the coupling.

Duncs

Hi kwk56pt,
This may help.
Using a 1.8metre lenght of dowel pushed vertically through the Tregg block hole on the trailer to indicate exactly where it is will help you to back up close.
Another hint you can use is to stand directly behind your vehicle and with a permanent Black Texta make a small mark on the back window directly above the centre of the tow hitch.

With practise you will soon be able to line the dowel and the mark up using the interior rearview mirror and just about drop the treg pin straight in.

Like many things "Practice Makes Perfect" and it certainly applies with backing up to a trailer hitch.

Hope this helps

Disco.

To centralise (if that's a word) the car to the camper, I just make sure there is an even amount showing in the side mirrors, obviously they need to be adjusted to show correctly, but it'll get you close enough. I then go slowly till I hit something, sometimes it's too hig or low and I need to pull forward, make adjustment, and try again, but usually give it 3 goes and it's done.
Luckily i'm slowly getting the missus to learn how to direct me, so it's becoming less of a hassle.
I also lube the pin and hitch with bearing grease which makes the pin insertion a whole lot easier when not perfect,
Cheers
troy

Reversing camera.....you'll regret not having one yrs ago !!

Can you get hold of a pin with a tapered end and try it? It will make things easier.
Cheers Gaz.

Hi K, got jayco dove outback 1300kgs full, with treg hitch, use a ratchet jockey wheel, on ply in sand or grass, turn wheel sideways when hooking up, have used 2 lengths of 1/2 inch poly tube thru tregg holes, line up side by side, crank jockey over & down, with ratchet jockey you can hold & guide easy on your own, great for adjusting van on small sites as well, get solid wheel if you do.....

I second the reversing camera and practice....

Similar to what Disco said above.
I use a piece of old fibreglass fishing rod jammed in the coupling behind the hole, a small piece of electrical tape is positioned central on the rear window, another piece is central on the front of the C/van.
When reversing, line up the spot on the vehicle with the stick and the spot on the Van in the inside rear vision mirror.
With a little practice you will soon judge when you are nearly to the coupling, you then need to get out and adjust the height before reversing right onto the block.
I have hitched up by myself many times using this method on uneven ground, sand etc.
If you need to hitch up with the vehicle on an angle to the Camper, simply allow the spot on the rear window to be the appropriate distance to the side of the stick ignoring the spot on the camper.
As previously said, if you place a reasonable size piece of wood under the Jockey Wheel when you unhitch, it will help when hitching up.

Geeeez some things are hard to explain, I hope you get the idea of it. LOL

Clear as mud ??

Regards

Scrubby

Intitially we struggled to force receiver to towbar as you are, used a piece of plywood under the jockey wheel, then practiced lining up to tape marks, then tried the navigator high voice method, then tried with the navigator using the uhf, it all provided heaps of entertainment at CPs.
Best solution, saved the marriage as well, was to put a reversing camera directly above and inline with the towbar. Not a word needs to be spoken !! Even without help, it is so easy to line up perfectly and only stop to raise or lower the hitch with the jockey wheel.
We use a standard tapered hitch pin when towing, only set up the lockable when camper is parked up. One day you may need to unhook the camper in a hurry and finding the key may be too late !
Cheers (and good luck)
Peter

aligner

Surely it wouldn't be real hard to make a V block similar to the ball coupling hitch assist thats already on the market for normal trailer hitches.

Line the hitch up roughly! and back up until the V plate aligns the hitch! and sits snugly in the coupling then do up the pin should be easy.

Cheers

We used a Treg for about 10 years on 2 campers (piece of cake compared to the 18' offroad van we know have :-o). I think the key to the whole Treg thing is to back the car to the point where the trailer's poly block needs only to be moved sideways into the hole line up. This necessitated the driver being directed by the other party to get the yoke on the car and the block on the trailer close, side by side (a big ask for some couples I know - I mean, I really know this, first hand :-o).The jockey was adjusted to the correct height and the poly block was wriggled across with my knee - even on problematic ground, or a minor slope, we got there each time. Our problems these days (Hyland Hitch) is that there is no wriggling sideways anymore - the van is too heavy on any surface. Re sand - only one wheel needs to advance a little as you swing the trailer with your knee that little bit for pin line up - just remove the sand in front of that wheel and maybe chock the other wheel. Of course, fingers are in huge danger with all this, but you knew that ..... as for pins... we only ever used the pointy original .... security was gained via other methods.