Pressure Switch for Air Compressor

Submitted: Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 21:56
ThreadID: 84589 Views:7480 Replies:5 FollowUps:8
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I need a pressure switch for my ARB compressor that will switch on/off at a level higher than the one that comes with the ARB unit.
ARB only stock the 70/95 PSI unit and I want something like a 100/150 PSI unit.

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Anybody know a supplier in Melbourne of these switches??

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Reply By: rossco - Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 22:20

Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 22:20
Try Nippon Air out Ringwood way . The man to contact is Craig on 03 9874 3222. They make the Air on Board systems for 4wd's . I bought a new pressure switch that came on at 80 psi and off at 120 psi but they will be able to give you your information re off at 150 psi.
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Reply By: Dion - Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 22:28

Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 22:28
Will the ARB pump up to 150psi? If it does, will this shorten the life of the compressor?
Cheers,
Dion.
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Reply By: Member - Rob Mac (QLD) - Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 22:50

Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 22:50
Hi John, funny this post is the first on the forum when I openned it up as I had just got off this site checking out pressure switches for my Boss system as it came with a 110-150 PSI switch and the compressor will not pump up above 120 PSI so will probably source one around 100-120<>. At work I deal with a company called Industrial Fitting Sales here in Brisbane and they manufacture and sell brass fittings and guages . I bought a liquid filled pressure guage to use with the Boss system and it was a good price( cant find my receipt at the moment). I see a warning about ARB copmressors and pressure switches on this site.
pressure switches
Cheers Rob Mac
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Follow Up By: Member - John (Vic) - Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 22:59

Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 22:59
Yeah thanks mate, I saw that also as they were the only mob I could find with a Google search.
Not using it with an Air Locker.

Want a supplier in Melbourne so I can go pick one up.

If some one knows that brand of these switches I could Google that and source one also.
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Reply By: Dust-Devil - Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 23:00

Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 23:00
John

I was down at ARB Dandenong last week and bought a couple of these switches.

The dude serving me asked me if I wanted 70 - 100psi or (I think) 100 - 150psi ones.

A conversation ensued at the end of which he stated to me that ARB were moving up to the 100 - 150psi ones as a new standard.

Learn something new every day.

I purchased the 70 - 100psi ones that he left in stock and departed.

Sooooooooooo! you can make of that what you like. Maybe a phone call to ARB HQ's might assist you.

Regards

DD
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Follow Up By: Member - Rob Mac (QLD) - Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 23:13

Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 23:13
Hi DD, going by the warning on that site I saw, maybe ARB are upgrading the seals in their compressors or is it the seals on the airlockers themselves the warning refered to??.
Cheers
Rob Mac
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Follow Up By: Dust-Devil - Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 23:36

Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 23:36
Whilst replacing the subject pressure switch I had to remove one of the ARB locker solenoids, and to to so I had to disassemble it in situ to do so. Otherwise it was going to be a long knuckle skinning exercise.

I noticed on the the solenoid spec sticker that it was rated to 150PSI.

I also have a bit to do with a 4WD Comp vehicle and it had an issue with one of the lockers which was initially thought to be a blown locker seal in the diff, however was a cracked copper internal delivery tube.

Whilst making enquiries at ARB about this problem I was assured that their locker seals could take 150psi all day long and never blow. (?????) I accepted that and it would appear to be correct.

The Comp truck was running a 120psi pressure switch which caused me to ask the questions. But there you go, that stood by 150psi.

I know the ARB compressor with the little air tank on it (Original one - not the new mini compressor) used to blow the air tank seal at around 101psi(LOL). Just a chit of a thing really, and its possible the new mini compressors don't have that problem, and can handle 150psi OK. I'm just guessing here.

DD
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Follow Up By: Dust-Devil - Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 23:41

Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 23:41
Just so you know, I now run an endless air compressor into a custom air manifold with all the locker solenoids, pressure guage, air tank feed, airline coupler etc etc.

I originally had the early model ARB compressor with the largish air tank on it, however had a couple of hiccups with seals and other things that had nothing to do with the ARB compressor itself. Still have it actually.

DD
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Follow Up By: Member - John (Vic) - Friday, Feb 25, 2011 at 00:38

Friday, Feb 25, 2011 at 00:38
Thanks DD.
Good info, will contact ARB again and see what they say.

Just thought they must be available elsewhere no doubt at a cheaper price.
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Follow Up By: AGNI4x4 - Friday, Feb 25, 2011 at 06:16

Friday, Feb 25, 2011 at 06:16
You can get them on eBay (ARB) $19
Cheers
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Follow Up By: Member - John (Vic) - Friday, Feb 25, 2011 at 09:43

Friday, Feb 25, 2011 at 09:43
Thanks, do you have an Ebay link for them??

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Follow Up By: Dust-Devil - Sunday, Feb 27, 2011 at 17:11

Sunday, Feb 27, 2011 at 17:11
John(vic)

Apologies for not answering sooner, just got side tracked on other things and didn't see your request re pricing.

The ones I purchased at ARB Dandenong were $13.50 ea. Which I thought wasn't too bad.

DD
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Reply By: Member - Joe n Mel n kids (FNQ - Friday, Feb 25, 2011 at 22:09

Friday, Feb 25, 2011 at 22:09
ok i dont have air lockers.... or any "lockers" for that matter but after reading a few threads on this and other problems with the air delivery to activate them i will put forward an idea that i myself (if i had them ..) would do if i ever fit them.....
Convert them to "hydraulic" using the same oil as you are using in the diff, the seals in the piston (or whatever it uses) in the diff will need changing, well they may actually not if standard "o" rings, the flexable hose from chassis will need to be changed and very simple to run a standard steel tubing up to the cab (brake line) and up in the cab a simple lever to a "master" cyl very much alike a clutch/brake pedal with a sping to hold constant pressure on it so it stays engauged, a simple "over-center" lever would suffice .....
Or if you want to get tricky, an electricial solinoid, vacuum line tee'd from brakes to solinoid, solinoid to booster that pushes onto a master cyl that pushes fluid to the slave in the diff, then you have a simple little button on the dash, hit the button and no noisy compressor running, no braking loss as it will only draw vacuum when it starts the initial "suck".....

No compressor to be running constantly, piston and seals will last forever as they are lubed at all times, on chance of air pressurising the diff housing and causing leaks, if it leaks it will simply add a little the existing ........ would only need about 300ml to fill complete system i would guess and that will no hurt the diff.....
The cost of a good compressor to run like that, the cost of switches, tanks, wiring, air lines ect ...... it may well even work out cheaper and be far more reliable....
Anyway think about it as if and when i fit one i WILL convert it to "hydraulic" as i dont want all the hassels i have been reading about
Cheers
Joe
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