Electric drum brakes on camper NOT working - Ideas needed please
Submitted: Tuesday, Mar 08, 2011 at 20:38
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Kylie A
We have a Jayco pop top Outback Swan Van. We have taken out the bearings and replaced and repacked. I took the hubs to the mechanic, he said the shoes were only about half worn and still have about 30,000kms. To
test the magnet, we put power to it and metal nearby. The magnet pulled the metal to it.
The adjustment for the shoes has been done.
The auto elec was out, wired the car up. He also wired up an anderson plug to the battery. We had him
check the car and as far as he can see, all the elect seemed to be doing their job.
The elec brake controller stated to start the settings at 6 (volts I think), then adjust accordingly from there (more or less depending if the wheels lock up).
So I tried it. Nothing. I tried 8. Nothing. I tried 10, still nothing. The wheels seem to keep turning and the van does not seem to be braking.
Any ideas on what to
check or where the problem is, I would be grateful.
Thanks all
Reply By: Peter Richens - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 00:45
Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 00:45
have you tried removing a hub from the van and testing the magnet with the car hooked up?
Hope that came out correct ;-)
Basically you need to see if the entire circuit is working when hooked up - if the magnet fails to work then you know it's a wiring or controller fault, if it works then you know it's an adjustment or brake pad installation fault.
Problem is that when you
test the controller without a load connected such as the van you may be getting a false reading due to a bad connection that becomes an open circuit under load, this can be either in the brake wiring or even a bad earth in the trailer wiring.
Hope that will be of some help
Regards
Peter Richens - VK4FSD
AnswerID:
447730
Follow Up By: Kylie A - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 08:48
Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 08:48
Hi Peter, yes we have tested the magnet. We removed the hub (to repack the bearings) and hooked up the car. The magnets were attached, we pull the car brake on and put some metal near the magnet. The magnet did draw the metal in as I would have expected it to, if it was working. How strong I guess I dont know but it was def magnitising. The centre of the magnet was good but the outside was not real good.
I understand your point about testing an unloaded van, however according to the manufacturers instructions of the elec controller, it should have locked the wheels if the van up set at around 6. I can put it up to 10 and nothing. The wheels of the van are spinning.
Am I doing something wrong or missing something else entirely??
Thanks Peter
FollowupID:
720040
Follow Up By: Peter Richens - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 11:09
Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 11:09
Hi
You have not understood what I said!
I want you to
test the magnets with the car hooked up - I am not interested in weather or not the magnets are working so much as are they working when being powered from the car!
Fault finding is a process of elimination but some people like myself work sort of backwards - I am not interested so much in what is not working as in what is working so we need to start from square one - hook the entire deal up - as in plug the trailer or van up to the car, lift one wheel and have someone apply the brake - see if this has any affect on the wheel movement, if not or the affect is minimal
test the voltage to the magnet with it still all hooked up, if the voltage is 12Volts or close to it then you possibly have an issue with the brake pad installation or adjustment, but if the voltage is low than you either have a wiring issue or the controller is faulty - in this case you need to follow the wiring back and keep testing until you find the fault, keeping in mind to never use the car or trailer ground for the negative lead as the negative wire may be the problem.
FollowupID:
720055
Follow Up By: Kylie A - Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 10:12
Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 10:12
Peter,
Sorry I thought I said we hooked the car up and pull the car brake on.
You were right about the negative being the problem. It was the connection at the end of the wires on the camper (opposite end to the plug).
The brakes still do not lock up even with the controller set higher than recommended. So still need to
check the voltage as you suggested.
Thanks for your ideas.
FollowupID:
720151
Reply By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 08:38
Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 08:38
I have just been through the same thing with a brand new axle, Alko off-road not working properly. Firstly hook up the camper, place controller on full load and operate brakes. Get close to one of the campers wheels, you should be able to hear the magnets groan when power is applied.. If no unplug the camper and
check if you are getting 12 volts from the 7 pin plug on the vehicle. Find a good earth spot on the towbar, or better still, the chassis and
check all the pins for power, i think it is pin 3.. """dont mistake voltage from the brake pin""" If you have 12 volts then the controller is working, back the load off the controller and see if the voltage goes down proportionally. If ok then the problem is in the camper. Plug the camper in again and
check for power where the magnets are joined to the trailer wiring under the camper. Operate the controller on full load and
check one of the wire that go to the magnets with the multimeter and the other to a good earth.. if you have power and you can hear some noise when the brakes are applied, then the basic system is ok.
My problem was that i was getting some braking but the brakes would not lock up when on full load and would only work very slightly when warmed up. I assumed it was a bad earth so i drilled and tapped an small hole in the tie down tab(transportation tie down point) on the chassis near the towbar, cleaned the area around it and crimped and soldered a round terminal and tightened firm and i ran a new earth wire into the back of the 7pin flat plug on the vehicle and into the earth pin. I now have brakes!!!!!! If you decide to add an additional earth, go direct to chassis rather that the towbar, there may be corrosion between the towbar and the chassis. Before i fixed the problem with the with the earth wire, the magnets were drawing 5.4 Amps so it really looked like all was ok but on full load they should draw around 3.5 amps each from memory. Another thing if you disconnected the magnets wiring,
check that the magnets are wired in parallel and not in series, so they are both getting the controller voltage and not half of it. Also
check both 7pin flat plug and socket to ensure all the wires are tight. Hope this helps,, regards Michael
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AnswerID:
447742
Follow Up By: Snoopyone - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 10:50
Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 10:50
Brakes are pin 5 Earth is pin 3
FollowupID:
720051
Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 10:58
Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 10:58
Yes that sounds correct.. thats why i mentioned to make sure not to mix up with brake voltage.. Thanks for that.. regards Michael
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FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Kylie A - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 12:01
Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 12:01
Hi Michael & Snoopy,
Auto elec was out y/day. He tested the car, all good. He tested the camper and appeared to be all good to. He checked both of the plugs and made sure they were all wired correctly.
When the brakes are applied, there is a hum at the hubs.
Michael - you have raised some good points, I know where I will be tonight after work. Your symptoms are very familiar ....
Watch this space ... I will be back :)
FollowupID:
720064
Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 12:15
Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 12:15
If all appears to
check out it will be likely to be bad earth, a bad earth or a bad earth!! :) Hope you fix it easily!! Michael
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Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 22:23
Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 22:23
Another thing i thought of was if you have a polyblok type coupling instead of a ball coupling, you will not get any earth through it to connect the camper and the vehicle. If all the earths for the lights and brakes on the camper are earthed to the trailer, only the safety chain will provide any earth link back to the vehicle and a poor earth at that. That is a sloppy but easy way to provide an earth to the camper but the best way and i expect the camper does have this, have a proper earth returns to the plug on the trailer from the lights and the brakes. Michael
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FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Kylie A - Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 10:05
Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 10:05
Michael & everyone,
You were right Michael about the earth being a bad connection.
Where the trailer plug wires lead back and are attached to a connector, then out the other side of the connector those wires lead to brakes, rear lamps etc.
Well the problem seemed to be the earth wire. The earth wire from the plug and the earth wire from the camper were not making a proper connection.
Cleaned it up and now the brakes seem to work.
Apparently, the van gets it earth from the car via the trailer plug.
We took it for a spin behind the car, worked them and they warmed up and groaned when the manual slider was slid across and slight accelerator.
But - they still dont lock up as the manufacturer states at the setting 6.
I have bumped it up to 10 and still no lock up, even with the boost on the highest setting.
So now I am not sure if they are working enough for a fully loaded trailer.
Thanks to all for your suggestions so far, it has given us a better understanding of the way the brakes operate. :)
FollowupID:
720149
Follow Up By: Snoopyone - Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 10:30
Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 10:30
Could be the earth wire is not heavy enough.
Usually the blue pin 5 wire is heavier than the rest and the earth should be of equal size Could also be a bad connection further in on the car loom.
My teknonsha will lock the rear wheels of a dual axle van if I hit it really hard
Bear in mind that the controller is a proportional controller so the harder you stop the more the brakes go on.
If you just apply light pedal they wont go on as hard as if you jump on them
The boost starts them off at 13% on 1 and about 25% on 2.
Never needed more than that.
Just a thought Did you remove the magnets from the hubs and if so did you put them back on the same side. If not they wont be gripping as
well as they wear into each other.
FollowupID:
720155
Follow Up By: Kylie A - Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 11:15
Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 11:15
Yes, your right.
I will have to
check the size of the wires. I think I recall one being thicker not sure which though.
This Tekonsha instructions said they should lock around 6. Put it up to 10 and boost 3 - still nothing. The manual says I should only need about b1 or b2 at max.
I was using the manual finger slide on the controller to
test the 'wheel lock up' not the cars brakes.
I will have to
check with hubby about the magnets ;-)
FollowupID:
720159
Reply By: Kylie A - Tuesday, Mar 15, 2011 at 14:47
Tuesday, Mar 15, 2011 at 14:47
Thanks to you all for taking the time and effort to share your ideas with me.
I have taken the camper and car to a local caravan and trailer service place and had them
test it.
They gave it the thumbs up.
Although the wheels dont lock on the camper, the trailer does brake.
As some have mentioned, not all wheels will lock and I guess
mine is just one of them.
Michael, SS-SS, Snoopyone & others - thanks again, much appreciated!!
Kylie
AnswerID:
448320