Electric drum brakes on camper NOT working - Ideas needed please

Submitted: Tuesday, Mar 08, 2011 at 20:38
ThreadID: 84888 Views:10101 Replies:12 FollowUps:23
This Thread has been Archived
We have a Jayco pop top Outback Swan Van. We have taken out the bearings and replaced and repacked. I took the hubs to the mechanic, he said the shoes were only about half worn and still have about 30,000kms. To test the magnet, we put power to it and metal nearby. The magnet pulled the metal to it.
The adjustment for the shoes has been done.
The auto elec was out, wired the car up. He also wired up an anderson plug to the battery. We had him check the car and as far as he can see, all the elect seemed to be doing their job.
The elec brake controller stated to start the settings at 6 (volts I think), then adjust accordingly from there (more or less depending if the wheels lock up).
So I tried it. Nothing. I tried 8. Nothing. I tried 10, still nothing. The wheels seem to keep turning and the van does not seem to be braking.

Any ideas on what to check or where the problem is, I would be grateful.

Thanks all
Back Expand Un-Read 0 Moderator

Reply By: Isuzumu - Tuesday, Mar 08, 2011 at 20:57

Tuesday, Mar 08, 2011 at 20:57
Could be the shoes need adjusting, there is a small slot in the back of the hub where you adjust the shoes in or out. Jack one wheel up and give it a spin and get some one to hit the brake and see if the wheel stops. If the magnet is working and the wheel does not stop adjust the shoes.
AnswerID: 447713

Follow Up By: Kylie A - Tuesday, Mar 08, 2011 at 23:12

Tuesday, Mar 08, 2011 at 23:12
Hi Isuzumu, shoes have been adjusted fully. I will try your suggestion. We were able to make a couple of wheel rotations of the hub (while the wheels were off) then it got hard to rotate, but still did rotate under force.
Hope that makes sense.
Thanks for the suggestion.
0
FollowupID: 720026

Reply By: Lex M (Brisbane) - Tuesday, Mar 08, 2011 at 23:03

Tuesday, Mar 08, 2011 at 23:03
What brake controller do you have?


AnswerID: 447721

Follow Up By: Kylie A - Tuesday, Mar 08, 2011 at 23:14

Tuesday, Mar 08, 2011 at 23:14
Hi Lex, good point, Tekonsha, Primus IQ
Brand new unit.
Thanks
0
FollowupID: 720027

Reply By: Peter Richens - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 00:45

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 00:45
have you tried removing a hub from the van and testing the magnet with the car hooked up?

Hope that came out correct ;-)

Basically you need to see if the entire circuit is working when hooked up - if the magnet fails to work then you know it's a wiring or controller fault, if it works then you know it's an adjustment or brake pad installation fault.

Problem is that when you test the controller without a load connected such as the van you may be getting a false reading due to a bad connection that becomes an open circuit under load, this can be either in the brake wiring or even a bad earth in the trailer wiring.

Hope that will be of some help

Regards
Peter Richens - VK4FSD
AnswerID: 447730

Follow Up By: Kylie A - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 08:48

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 08:48
Hi Peter, yes we have tested the magnet. We removed the hub (to repack the bearings) and hooked up the car. The magnets were attached, we pull the car brake on and put some metal near the magnet. The magnet did draw the metal in as I would have expected it to, if it was working. How strong I guess I dont know but it was def magnitising. The centre of the magnet was good but the outside was not real good.
I understand your point about testing an unloaded van, however according to the manufacturers instructions of the elec controller, it should have locked the wheels if the van up set at around 6. I can put it up to 10 and nothing. The wheels of the van are spinning.

Am I doing something wrong or missing something else entirely??

Thanks Peter
0
FollowupID: 720040

Follow Up By: Peter Richens - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 11:09

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 11:09
Hi

You have not understood what I said!

I want you to test the magnets with the car hooked up - I am not interested in weather or not the magnets are working so much as are they working when being powered from the car!

Fault finding is a process of elimination but some people like myself work sort of backwards - I am not interested so much in what is not working as in what is working so we need to start from square one - hook the entire deal up - as in plug the trailer or van up to the car, lift one wheel and have someone apply the brake - see if this has any affect on the wheel movement, if not or the affect is minimal test the voltage to the magnet with it still all hooked up, if the voltage is 12Volts or close to it then you possibly have an issue with the brake pad installation or adjustment, but if the voltage is low than you either have a wiring issue or the controller is faulty - in this case you need to follow the wiring back and keep testing until you find the fault, keeping in mind to never use the car or trailer ground for the negative lead as the negative wire may be the problem.
0
FollowupID: 720055

Follow Up By: Kylie A - Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 10:12

Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 10:12
Peter,
Sorry I thought I said we hooked the car up and pull the car brake on.
You were right about the negative being the problem. It was the connection at the end of the wires on the camper (opposite end to the plug).

The brakes still do not lock up even with the controller set higher than recommended. So still need to check the voltage as you suggested.

Thanks for your ideas.
0
FollowupID: 720151

Reply By: ss--ss - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 07:53

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 07:53
Hi , you should get about 2.5 amps at each brake magnet. If it's a jayco outback then it would have alko off road magnets in the drums. Also if the hubs have been machined then it would take a little while to bed in. These drums have brake lining plus the wall gets machined where the magnet sticks to..
What tow car is it, wouldn't happen to be a prado?
AnswerID: 447739

Follow Up By: Kylie A - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 08:42

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 08:42
Hi SS-SS, your response has given some direction - thank you. Yes Jayco Outback, and your spot on about Alko, expect they are the ON road magnets. 10" with a 10" backing plate. I will check the amperage as you suggested.
Not sure if the hubs have been machined, it would not be recently if they ever were.

YES the car is a PRADO!!
Prado Dec04 Grande V6 4ltr petrol or better known as the 120 series ;-)

Thanks
0
FollowupID: 720039

Follow Up By: ss--ss - Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 12:49

Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 12:49
Hi Kylie , Do you have dual batteries in the prado & do you have an anderson or similar going to the jayco ? Try it with the aux battery disconnected if that's the case. The earth return maybe returning via the Aux battery then having to go to the main battery.. Worth a shot ..
0
FollowupID: 720179

Follow Up By: Kylie A - Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 23:11

Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 23:11
SS-SS - I was hoping you would reply!!
I was intrigued as to why you asked about my car specifically being a Prado.

Right again! yes dual batteries. Yes anderson plug between the Prado & Jayco.

I will try out your suggestion of disconnecting the aux battery.
Agree, def worth a shot :)

Will the earth be earthing if the aux battery is disconnected (if it is wired via the aux battery)? Therefore, will the brakes work?

Please excuse my lack of knowledge here, but if the earth does return via the aux, what does that mean? Does it need to be rewired another way? How can I use the car/camper without the aux connected? etc

Thanks again
0
FollowupID: 720235

Follow Up By: ss--ss - Friday, Mar 11, 2011 at 08:14

Friday, Mar 11, 2011 at 08:14
Hi, I may have got lucky with guesses because these problems can be for may reasons. I'm no expert but from what I've seen is the prado chassis earth is not the best if not grounded in the right spot. I'd say the brake controller or feed to anderson connector is grounded to the chassis.

I would make sure the brake controller is connected directly to the battery terminals( not chassis) probably doesn't matter if it,s main or aux but I prefer main. The earth return of the trailer plug, think it's pin2 back to the same battery. Also the anderson negative should go back to the battery the Anderson positive comes from..

You can try one at a time then test .. I've got a prado 150 series which is similar & as I said I'm no expert.. Cheers
0
FollowupID: 720245

Follow Up By: Snoopyone - Friday, Mar 11, 2011 at 09:17

Friday, Mar 11, 2011 at 09:17
Earth is pin 3

Pin 2 is aux + or reverse lights on some
0
FollowupID: 720247

Follow Up By: ss--ss - Friday, Mar 11, 2011 at 09:39

Friday, Mar 11, 2011 at 09:39
Yep your right here's the full list



0
FollowupID: 720250

Follow Up By: Snoopyone - Friday, Mar 11, 2011 at 10:11

Friday, Mar 11, 2011 at 10:11
Same for 7 pin round as well.

Or 12 pin flat Extras go on 8-12.

0
FollowupID: 720255

Reply By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 08:38

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 08:38
I have just been through the same thing with a brand new axle, Alko off-road not working properly. Firstly hook up the camper, place controller on full load and operate brakes. Get close to one of the campers wheels, you should be able to hear the magnets groan when power is applied.. If no unplug the camper andcheck if you are getting 12 volts from the 7 pin plug on the vehicle. Find a good earth spot on the towbar, or better still, the chassis and check all the pins for power, i think it is pin 3.. """dont mistake voltage from the brake pin""" If you have 12 volts then the controller is working, back the load off the controller and see if the voltage goes down proportionally. If ok then the problem is in the camper. Plug the camper in again and check for power where the magnets are joined to the trailer wiring under the camper. Operate the controller on full load and check one of the wire that go to the magnets with the multimeter and the other to a good earth.. if you have power and you can hear some noise when the brakes are applied, then the basic system is ok.
My problem was that i was getting some braking but the brakes would not lock up when on full load and would only work very slightly when warmed up. I assumed it was a bad earth so i drilled and tapped an small hole in the tie down tab(transportation tie down point) on the chassis near the towbar, cleaned the area around it and crimped and soldered a round terminal and tightened firm and i ran a new earth wire into the back of the 7pin flat plug on the vehicle and into the earth pin. I now have brakes!!!!!! If you decide to add an additional earth, go direct to chassis rather that the towbar, there may be corrosion between the towbar and the chassis. Before i fixed the problem with the with the earth wire, the magnets were drawing 5.4 Amps so it really looked like all was ok but on full load they should draw around 3.5 amps each from memory. Another thing if you disconnected the magnets wiring, check that the magnets are wired in parallel and not in series, so they are both getting the controller voltage and not half of it. Also check both 7pin flat plug and socket to ensure all the wires are tight. Hope this helps,, regards Michael
Patrol 4.2TDi 2003

Retired 2016 and now Out and About!

Somewhere you want to explore ? There is no time like the present.

Member
My Profile  My Blog  Send Message

AnswerID: 447742

Follow Up By: Snoopyone - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 10:50

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 10:50
Brakes are pin 5 Earth is pin 3




0
FollowupID: 720051

Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 10:58

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 10:58
Yes that sounds correct.. thats why i mentioned to make sure not to mix up with brake voltage.. Thanks for that.. regards Michael
Patrol 4.2TDi 2003

Retired 2016 and now Out and About!

Somewhere you want to explore ? There is no time like the present.

Member
My Profile  My Blog  Send Message

0
FollowupID: 720052

Follow Up By: Kylie A - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 12:01

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 12:01
Hi Michael & Snoopy,
Auto elec was out y/day. He tested the car, all good. He tested the camper and appeared to be all good to. He checked both of the plugs and made sure they were all wired correctly.
When the brakes are applied, there is a hum at the hubs.

Michael - you have raised some good points, I know where I will be tonight after work. Your symptoms are very familiar ....

Watch this space ... I will be back :)
0
FollowupID: 720064

Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 12:15

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 12:15
If all appears to check out it will be likely to be bad earth, a bad earth or a bad earth!! :) Hope you fix it easily!! Michael
Patrol 4.2TDi 2003

Retired 2016 and now Out and About!

Somewhere you want to explore ? There is no time like the present.

Member
My Profile  My Blog  Send Message

0
FollowupID: 720065

Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 22:23

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 22:23
Another thing i thought of was if you have a polyblok type coupling instead of a ball coupling, you will not get any earth through it to connect the camper and the vehicle. If all the earths for the lights and brakes on the camper are earthed to the trailer, only the safety chain will provide any earth link back to the vehicle and a poor earth at that. That is a sloppy but easy way to provide an earth to the camper but the best way and i expect the camper does have this, have a proper earth returns to the plug on the trailer from the lights and the brakes. Michael
Patrol 4.2TDi 2003

Retired 2016 and now Out and About!

Somewhere you want to explore ? There is no time like the present.

Member
My Profile  My Blog  Send Message

0
FollowupID: 720112

Follow Up By: Kylie A - Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 10:05

Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 10:05
Michael & everyone,

You were right Michael about the earth being a bad connection.
Where the trailer plug wires lead back and are attached to a connector, then out the other side of the connector those wires lead to brakes, rear lamps etc.
Well the problem seemed to be the earth wire. The earth wire from the plug and the earth wire from the camper were not making a proper connection.
Cleaned it up and now the brakes seem to work.
Apparently, the van gets it earth from the car via the trailer plug.
We took it for a spin behind the car, worked them and they warmed up and groaned when the manual slider was slid across and slight accelerator.

But - they still dont lock up as the manufacturer states at the setting 6.
I have bumped it up to 10 and still no lock up, even with the boost on the highest setting.

So now I am not sure if they are working enough for a fully loaded trailer.

Thanks to all for your suggestions so far, it has given us a better understanding of the way the brakes operate. :)
0
FollowupID: 720149

Follow Up By: Snoopyone - Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 10:30

Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 10:30
Could be the earth wire is not heavy enough.

Usually the blue pin 5 wire is heavier than the rest and the earth should be of equal size Could also be a bad connection further in on the car loom.

My teknonsha will lock the rear wheels of a dual axle van if I hit it really hard

Bear in mind that the controller is a proportional controller so the harder you stop the more the brakes go on.

If you just apply light pedal they wont go on as hard as if you jump on them

The boost starts them off at 13% on 1 and about 25% on 2.

Never needed more than that.


Just a thought Did you remove the magnets from the hubs and if so did you put them back on the same side. If not they wont be gripping as well as they wear into each other.

0
FollowupID: 720155

Follow Up By: Kylie A - Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 11:15

Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 11:15
Yes, your right.
I will have to check the size of the wires. I think I recall one being thicker not sure which though.

This Tekonsha instructions said they should lock around 6. Put it up to 10 and boost 3 - still nothing. The manual says I should only need about b1 or b2 at max.

I was using the manual finger slide on the controller to test the 'wheel lock up' not the cars brakes.

I will have to check with hubby about the magnets ;-)
0
FollowupID: 720159

Reply By: Member - Keith C (NSW) - Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 15:13

Wednesday, Mar 09, 2011 at 15:13
Hi Kylie,If the magnets are not totally flat, ie if they are chamfered on the outer edges this causes poor braking. the magnets contact the drum on its vertical face, and if they are worn and not in full contact on their total surface, braking is affected. You should be able to hear the magnets buzzing when the brakes are on and the van is stationery, The wheel should rotate about 1.5 turns max when properly adjusted. Regards Keith
AnswerID: 447768

Follow Up By: Kylie A - Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 09:43

Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 09:43
Good idea Keith, I checked and they are flat (phew).
Yes, can hear the buzzing noise you mentioned.
The wheel rotation - I will have to check this.

Thanks Keith!
0
FollowupID: 720142

Reply By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 10:50

Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 10:50
OK! Does it need a secondary earth connected to the vehicles earth pin in the 7 pin flat socket back to the chassis of the vehicle as i mentioned.. As mentioned above, the earth may be undersize and connected to somewhere , where it does not give you a complete earth.. At least at the moment you can use with some braking power.. Keep onto it, they should lock on full power.. Michael


Patrol 4.2TDi 2003

Retired 2016 and now Out and About!

Somewhere you want to explore ? There is no time like the present.

Member
My Profile  My Blog  Send Message

AnswerID: 447841

Follow Up By: Kylie A - Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 11:22

Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 11:22
Michael, Im tipping you are right ... again :)
We are heading off this w/end to Portland on the camper's 'maiden voyage'. Hope to check it out before we go or maybe when we get there.
A lot happier since we now have some braking power. You can feel it brake a little when the manual slide is used, but just set really high and no lock up.

Def keeping on to it ... watch this space ;-)
0
FollowupID: 720160

Reply By: Member - Alastair D (NSW) - Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 12:24

Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 12:24
Kylie,
You have had lots of good suggestions but it seems that things are still not as good as you would like.

A friend of mine once took his trailer hubs & brakes all apart to do a major rennovation and fix up rusty areas etc. After reassembly his brakes just did not work well. It eventually turned out that he had put the backing plates on the wrong sides. Drum brakes tend to use the rotation of the wheel to pull the shoes on and if they are on the wrong side they don't work well.

Do not know if this would be possible on yours or if you removed the backing plates, probably not. Just a thought in case you did.

cheers
AnswerID: 447852

Follow Up By: Kylie A - Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 23:25

Thursday, Mar 10, 2011 at 23:25
Hi Alastair,
You are right about good suggestions being made, and I guess we are half the way there. The boys might be on to something though about the neg / ground somehow not being wired properly or thick enough. I am still yet to test this.

Yes, we had the backing plates off. My hubby laid everything out carefully as to make sure it all went back on the same way / side of the van.
He is confident that the backing plate and the magnets and all went back on the right way.

The handbrake cable is attached to the lever that comes out of the backing plate. The handbrake would not work, if the backing plates were to be reversed.

I was thinking that maybe the previous owner had mixed the plates up but since the handbrake is fine, it rules out this possibility ... to my understanding.

Thanks for the suggestion ... I hope I am right in my thinking ...
0
FollowupID: 720236

Reply By: garthyguts - Saturday, Mar 12, 2011 at 11:14

Saturday, Mar 12, 2011 at 11:14
adjust brakes to they lock up then back OFF ten click
they are not the same as a car, people do them wrong
AnswerID: 447981

Reply By: peteC - Tuesday, Mar 15, 2011 at 13:39

Tuesday, Mar 15, 2011 at 13:39
I have the Eagle outback and had had 2 different brake controllers over the years. The Tesko one and others I know of will not lock the brakes via manual slide no matter what you try. You need to get on a dirt road firstly and have a play doing some serious lock ups ( turn ABS off if you can ). You will be able to see the trailer skid marks. I would then be confident it will do its job on the tar.
AnswerID: 448310

Reply By: peteC - Tuesday, Mar 15, 2011 at 13:39

Tuesday, Mar 15, 2011 at 13:39
I have the Eagle outback and had had 2 different brake controllers over the years. The Tesko one and others I know of will not lock the brakes via manual slide no matter what you try. You need to get on a dirt road firstly and have a play doing some serious lock ups ( turn ABS off if you can ). You will be able to see the trailer skid marks. I would then be confident it will do its job on the tar.
AnswerID: 448311

Reply By: Kylie A - Tuesday, Mar 15, 2011 at 14:47

Tuesday, Mar 15, 2011 at 14:47
Thanks to you all for taking the time and effort to share your ideas with me.

I have taken the camper and car to a local caravan and trailer service place and had them test it.
They gave it the thumbs up.
Although the wheels dont lock on the camper, the trailer does brake.
As some have mentioned, not all wheels will lock and I guess mine is just one of them.

Michael, SS-SS, Snoopyone & others - thanks again, much appreciated!!

Kylie
AnswerID: 448320

Sponsored Links