ATF precautions when changing

I'm not sure on the Camry's but I just changed my Suzuki auto box fluid. Mine has a drain plug which made it a lot easier. I was going to change the filter/screen as well but only changed the fluid as nearly all of my fluid drained out when I was only expecting half.

The screen should hold most of the fine particles so if you're concerned change this as well.

To access the screen you have to remove the sump pan. There is usually a magnet on the bottom of the pan to hold any metal shavings so clean that as well.

If you are really really keen you could change the fluid once, go drive it for a week or two and then change the oil again. Any particulates should be suspended in the now old oil. I've also seen a Youtube vid of a mechanic disconnecting the hose from the trans cooler, running the engine and adding more fluid as it is pumped out of the hose.

Hope this helps.

In my experience most of the solid stuff sits close to the bottom of the sump, which of course is where the pickup draws from.
I would always change the screen unless it has been changed in the last 10KK or so.
I changed the fluid in my Range Rover ZF 4HP22 about 3KK ago. When you change ATF oil you only usually change the oil in the sump which is about half of the total, as the rest is in the Torque Converter.

Anyway, I over filled it a bit and placed a tube down the filler and used a syringe to draw some fluid out. I was very surprised as the fluid which came out was FILTHY. This was only after a few hundred K.

I do not know whether I would pay the hundreds for a full flush, as I use Castrol Syntrans at $85 for four litres , but I am going to change mine again in before my next big trip.

What you do really depnds on what material is in the sump, but one of teh points I would make is that by teh time the oil on teh dipstick is discoloured , the oil near the bottom of the sump is filthy. It should never get to that stage with proper maintenance.

Regards Philip A