Chescold fuse

Submitted: Monday, May 16, 2011 at 08:30

ThreadID: 86311 Views:2190 Replies:2 FollowUps:4

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Joshuah

G'day everyone.
I noticed after buying a pre-loved Chescold 50l fridge that the plug gets hot on 12volt. Upon reading some posts on this site about Chescold fridge wiring, I replaced the 12 volt plug and socket and hard-wired heavy copper cable to as close as the 12 volt element to an external Anderson plug.

I am about to fit a an Anderson plug to the battery side but have stalled at the fuse. The fuse holders I have are rated to 30Amp, though the wire they come with are not much bigger than that wires I replaced, so using these with a 15 amp fuse will just give me the resistance I was trying to eliminate in the first place. How do I get around this? I suppose a 15 amp fuse will get hot with 10 amp running through it, but can I minimise this wastage? Are there alternatives? I have a 30-amp bar fuse, but I'm thinking this is too big...

Thanks.

Joshua.

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Reply By: Member - Troll 81 (QLD) - Monday, May 16, 2011 at 08:46

Monday, May 16, 2011 at 08:46

When I had my chescold back in the day I tried everything to get it running well on 12V and they are just not designed well for 12V. Best they will do is maintain the temp once you take it off 240v volt. But open the lid a couple times and it's over.

AnswerID: 454426

Reply By: Notso - Monday, May 16, 2011 at 08:53

Monday, May 16, 2011 at 08:53

You could always use a resettable circuit breaker.

AnswerID: 454427

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Monday, May 16, 2011 at 09:30

Monday, May 16, 2011 at 09:30

Hi Joshua

The fuse is to protect the cable ,so use a fuse that matchs the cable rating.
Do not use the inline glass fuses they are very poor
A blade fuse is better.
A circuit breakerwill have some loss of voltage across it .

Peter

FollowupID: 727257

Follow Up By: Joshuah - Monday, May 16, 2011 at 09:51

Monday, May 16, 2011 at 09:51

OK, thanks. I have a blade fuse holder, I may just cut away as much as the supplied cable it came with to minimise any losses I may have gained downstream.

I thought the fuse was to protect the element/appliance it's running too? The new cable I'm using to the fridge is the same size that connects my isolator the to auxiliary battery, but it's joined to the original wiring about 50mm from the fridge's 12v element. I was going to use a 15amp fuse, this original wiring and element being the weakest point. Concur?

Joshua.

FollowupID: 727259

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Monday, May 16, 2011 at 22:28

Monday, May 16, 2011 at 22:28

Hi Josh
with the fridge the only devise on the circuit it is ok to fuse to fridge rating
The fuse should be no LARGER than the smallest cable's rating
Peter

FollowupID: 727361