charging battery in trailer

Having read Jon and Val's excellent article on electricity for camping at

http://www.exploroz.com/Members/61493.4/1/2009/Electricity_for_Camping.aspx

and input fromhttp://www.fridge-and-solar.net . I also read Mick O's impressive setup in his carefully designed and modified vehicle that gave ample food for thought.

BUT

I still wonder if its worth running a small 240V BATTERY DOC SPORT 1.25 AMP smart CHARGER from a 600W inverter to 2 x 12V batteries in the trailer or should I run anderson plug connections or both? I have dual batteries set up under the hood with electronic isolator in a 1998 Troopy already. I mean to run it while driving. Would it help prolong the life of the extra batteries in the trailer? Is a DC-DC charger necessary and destined to do a much better job? Can I then run a fridge in the trailer or is it better to have it in the back of the vehicle itself?

Any opinions and comments appreciated.
Back Expand Un-Read 0 Moderator

Reply By: Road Warrior - Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 15:02

Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 15:02
If it were me, I would just run appropriate gauge wiring to the rear of the vehicle off your DB setup with an anderson plug attachment for your trailer. I would use one of those Ark power boxes that has an in built charger that you can put your own battery in.
AnswerID: 454574

Follow Up By: rainbowprof - Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 16:47

Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 16:47
thanks roadwarrior, good points. I suggested my setup to utilize what I have to avoid buying more hardware at the moment if possible.
0
FollowupID: 727459

Reply By: Robin Miller - Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 16:03

Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 16:03
A purpose built dc-dc charger is the preferred choice and allows the delivery of optimum voltage to rear batteries.
A properly done straight connection can be made to work well though and isn't so dependant on heavy cables and good connections.
Robin Miller

Member
My Profile  Send Message

AnswerID: 454583

Follow Up By: rainbowprof - Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 16:50

Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 16:50
Thanks for the comment, Phil. Do you mean just connecting the batteries at the back to the auxiliary battery under the hood should be okay? I was worried that power drop from long cable would mean the rear batteries would never fully charge...
0
FollowupID: 727460

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 16:27

Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 16:27
I prefer the fridges to stay with the vehicle because:
#1 Your food/drinks etc travel with you wherever you go
#2 You are doing a fast recharge on the batteries every time you drive
#3 Its simple.

If I ran my fridges in the Tvan, I would need a heap of other ways (eg solar, generator etc) to keep power up to them when I stay put for a few days. Too complicated and too many extra gadgets required.

I have 3 batteries in the Landcruiser so there's no problems running my 2 engels for 3-4 days. I find that with one hour's driving per day my batteries are replenished sufficiently to run indefinitely.
AnswerID: 454588

Follow Up By: rainbowprof - Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 16:41

Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 16:41
good points Phil. Where is the 3rd battery situated? The main reason to put the fridge in the trailer is space consideration 2 adults and 4 kids onboard.
0
FollowupID: 727457

Follow Up By: rainbowprof - Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 16:42

Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 16:42
good points Phil. Where is the 3rd battery situated? The main reason to put the fridge in the trailer is space consideration 2 adults and 4 kids onboard.
0
FollowupID: 727458

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 18:58

Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 18:58
Our 3rd battery is an AGM in the canopy.

We had 4 kids as well and used to cart them around in an 11 seater troopie 20 years ago. I know what you mean about space! We used to tow a trailer as well for the camping gear, but occasionally went without the trailer and crammed it all in - only had 1 fridge back then! For some unknown reason we now need 2 fridges for the 2 of us :-))

On the old troopie I welded up a cradle that took 2 batteries in front of the radiator (where a winch would normally go).

0
FollowupID: 727486

Reply By: Member - John and Val - Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 17:53

Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 17:53
A few comments -

A 1.25 amp charger is far too small to make a significant difference to batteries running a fridge. (I'm assuming a compressor style fridge such as Engel, Waeco etc. Things get far far worse if it's a 3 way.) A compressor fridge will require about 25 Ah or more per day, and if you run the little charger for say 5 hours while travelling it will supply maybe a quarter of that. Those small chargers are intended to maintain a battery that isn't in use.

Running a 240V charger from an inverter. Possible, but pretty inefficient.Inverters are typically about 80% efficient. My preference is to avoid having any 240V around the vehicle. (There are frequent arguments about electrical safety here!) Our whole rig runs on 12V - lighting, laptop, all chargers etc run from 12V. We carry a mains powered 12V power supply/charger which runs all the 12V stuff when 240V is available, but everything inside the vehicle is at 12V.

Fridge in trailer or tug? The fridge is your biggest electrical demand, so should preferably be where you have most electrical storage. It's very convenient to have it in the vehicle for when you are travelling without the trailer, maybe just to the shops - keeps the ice cream frozen till you get home. By having it in the vehicle it's also convenient to charge the battery that's running it.

Not too sure just what you are running where. You already have an auxilliary battery under the bonnet and are aiming to put more "batteries", (plural) in the trailer. Why? If the fridge is in the trailer, it's a good to have lots of storage there. How to charge it? I'd run a heavy twin cable, at least 6 B&S back from the engine bay to the trailer with Anderson plugs at the towbar. There will be losses in the cable, especially if the fridge is also feeding from that same cable, so a dc-dc charger would be very useful to give a reasonable charging regime. You will not get your batteries fully charged without one, but with one you will need some method of disconnecting from the vehicle's auxilliary battery when not running the engine. It gets more complicated but nothing that can't be solved with some smarts!

There are some other considerations - suggest first consider just how much storage you need where. If the fridge is in the vehicle and the trailer just has to supply lighting, the trailer batteries can be simply wired in parallel with the vehicle aux battery without a dc-dc charger, and all the aux batteries will function as a single big battery (with some acceptable losses). If the fridge is in the trailer, different ball game! Please consider and get back to us.

Cheers

John

J and V
"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted."
- Albert Einstein

Lifetime Member
My Profile  My Blog  Send Message

AnswerID: 454596

Follow Up By: rainbowprof - Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 18:28

Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 18:28
Thx John. Currently the fridge is in the vehicle but it's inconvenient because of space restrictions. I just bought an offroad trailer with a separate box in it set up for a couple more batteries and room to put the fridge and stove.

My place in Qld is off the grid so extra power never hurts- we currently have a simple solar setup there of 120W solar panel, regulator and 2 truck batteries which isn't quite sufficiant for our needs. I want to boost the car capacity to have more power to use both camping and when we are around the house. (I could run a lead from the inverter in the van to the house). I want to use the car alternator more effectively as it is used daily anyway . I dislike charging from the generator at home.
I run the home fridge on gas. Maybe I should run the car camping fridge on gas when we stop.
0
FollowupID: 727481

Follow Up By: rainbowprof - Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 18:37

Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 18:37
additionally I thought power through direct connection and anderson plug would supply the lions' share of the power needed and the ac trickle charger may just top it up to get the batteries full. And it'd use items which I already have.
0
FollowupID: 727483

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 19:04

Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 19:04
Rainbowprof,
What sort of fridge do you have? If its a 3-way then I'd suggest everyone's comments are no longer relevant because they draw way too much power off 12V.
0
FollowupID: 727487

Follow Up By: Member - John and Val - Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 20:57

Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 20:57
Rainbowprof,

New ball game! Or maybe that’s two ball games, the travelling one and the stationary one!

First – using a good connection from Troopy to trailer will provide charging, but (for reasons given in our blog) you will not get close to full charging. The little trickle charger will not be sufficient to top up and charge the batteries full either. (The solar panel might be very useful for this. Our Troopy carries one on the roof largely for this purpose.)

Quite understand your need to shift the fridge out of the vehicle. Even in a Troopy they take up a lot of space. So let’s assume that it goes to the trailer. One option is to use a 3 way fridge in the trailer, though that involves the initial cost of the fridge plus the cost of the gas installation (there may be legal requirements here too), as well as cabling and switchgear from the alternator. A 3 way fridge would run on gas while stationary, and 12V direct from the alternator when travelling. Running on 12V is very demanding (12 to 15 amps continuously) and running from batteries is not an option.

Putting the existing fridge (assuming it is a compressor type) with some batteries in the trailer seems the way to go.

At home, being off the grid, some extra storage and generating capacity sounds very desirable. The difficulty of course is that the Troopy charges when moving and the house doesn’t move! I assume that your domestic requirements are really only for lighting?

Options
It would be pretty inefficient, but you could charge batteries in the Troopy, and later transfer that charge to the house batteries using heavy cabling and a dc-dc charger. This would cost a charger ( $150-350 for 15-30 amps) plus batteries and cabling. The dc-dc charger would also help in charging the battery bank when mobile. Suggest search ebay for “dc-dc charger” – it’s a good catalogue even if you don’t buy there. Some respected ExplorOz business members do advertise there. Look for Derek, ABR, Battery Value…. for quality gear and support.

Another possibility is to carry extra batteries in the Troopy and plug the house into the Troopy battery bank as required. Perhaps one battery in the house to deal with those times that Troopy isn’t home at night, and swap to the Troopy bank (or simply plug the Troopy battery bank in parallel with the house battery) when Troopy comes home. (There will be very little battery to battery charging, and the house lighting will run mainly from the most fully charged battery/ies.) This is probably the least costly option.

Batteries – You are probably already aware - Batteries used in backup supplies for big computer systems are usually discarded long before end of life. It’s worth talking to electricians who deal with these systems. You can often pick some up at no cost when they are routinely replaced. Not all will be perfect, but at that price you can afford to be choosey.

HTH

John


J and V
"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted."
- Albert Einstein

Lifetime Member
My Profile  My Blog  Send Message

0
FollowupID: 727505

Follow Up By: rainbowprof - Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 23:43

Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 23:43
Excellent, John. Sound advice.
0
FollowupID: 727523

Sponsored Links