How many CCA needed to start L/C 200 turbo diesel V8

Submitted: Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 18:20
ThreadID: 86410 Views:13366 Replies:4 FollowUps:19
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What size battery needed to start, instead of the two small batteries supplied.
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Reply By: Member - Captain (WA) - Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 19:26

Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 19:26
I changed to Century N70ZZ with the starter being 710CCA when I isolated my 2 batteries. Has been in place for ~2 years and the one starter battery hasn't let me done yet.

Cheers

Captain
AnswerID: 454860

Follow Up By: pling - Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 21:05

Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 21:05
Thank you, I was thinking of Optima 900 CCA.
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Follow Up By: Member - Captain (WA) - Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 21:10

Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 21:10
While many use AGM's under the bonnet, I personally think the underbonnet heat impacts on their life and that normal wet cells are more cost effective.

But I do use AGM's in my Camper as it doesn't have the underbonnet temp issue and the longer life, quicker recharge and other advantages are worth the cost IMHO.

Cheers

Captain
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Reply By: CSeaJay - Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 20:12

Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 20:12
I separated the batteries well before I upgraded the batteries

It started happily from one of the standard original batteries

If you get 650CCA or higher you'll be laughing and won't wreck the battery
AnswerID: 454865

Follow Up By: pling - Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 21:07

Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 21:07
Thank you for the info, I wonder what the original CCA batteries were. I could not read the language they were in, Japanese, chinese etc.
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Follow Up By: Member - Captain (WA) - Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 21:19

Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 21:19
550 CCA, from memory.

Cheers

Captain
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Reply By: geocacher (djcache) - Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 22:34

Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 22:34
It's all good until you find yourself in Omeo or up at Davies Plain, on a frosty morning where it's below zero.

My brother inlaw separated his Cruiser batteries when he lived down on the coast. First winter in Omeo they had to link the batteries every morning to start it.

The auto elec here in Lakes does a roaring trade converting northerners cruisers back to standard starting configuration during winter, and fitting a third battery.

Having worked in the automotive engineering side of things at GM for years before changing careers, I can tell you first hand, car companies are as tight as fishes ar$es. If they can save 40cents on a vehicle they plan on building 100,000 of they'll do it.

If Toyota put two batteries in it, they did it because in some circumstances eg. cold, batteries a couple of years old, combination of adverse conditions, they need both batteries to start.

IF what you are doing is taking out two 350's an replacing them with a 700CCA that's a little different but I'd do a lot of research to find out why they did it first. Two batteries in parallel have half the internal resistance of one, which is why they can deliver more current.

Dave

AnswerID: 454885

Follow Up By: Member - Boobook - Friday, May 20, 2011 at 06:30

Friday, May 20, 2011 at 06:30
geocacher, I have a 200 and have seperated the two as above. I have had it this way for over 3 years with quite a bit of winter high country and snow trips.

The original batteries are tiny and suitable for a Camry etc. They are only N50 size, and the trays fit N70 ( or bigger in the drivers side).


You hit the nail on the head re the money spent by manufacturers though. IMO Toyota buy zillions of N50 batteries and probably get them for say $30 ea. But they probably buy hardly any N70 batteries and they would cost say $90 ea. So 2 x N50 it is. I'll bet it is that way to save money. There is even a Toyota document hanging around recommending spliting the batteries this way instead of putting in a 3rd battery Ala ARB.

I have had a need to jump start on ocassions. I wired the isolator so I can over ride it from the cabin and bingo. A jump start from the Aux battery.

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Follow Up By: pling - Friday, May 20, 2011 at 09:32

Friday, May 20, 2011 at 09:32
I have been told the Redarc? unit has a button fitted to the dash and that allows both batteries to be used in tandem if needed.
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Follow Up By: Member - Boobook - Friday, May 20, 2011 at 09:44

Friday, May 20, 2011 at 09:44
Sure does pling. So does the Surepower ( sold by ARB) one. The facility is standard but many installers don't include it. Make sure they do it if you get it installed.

Get the 200Amp one which has a surge capability of 600Amps. The standard 100A one only has a surge capability of 300A. Great to double up battery capacity when winching gets long and tough too. Use 3awg or better wiring.
The Phiraha ones are a different design, and internally use 4 x 40A relays for the 160A unit so they would probably take off to the moon if you tried something like that. Cheaper to manufacture though!
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Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Friday, May 20, 2011 at 15:32

Friday, May 20, 2011 at 15:32
Same motor in a 70series only has a single N70 cranking battery.
AnswerID: 454946

Follow Up By: CSeaJay - Friday, May 20, 2011 at 15:58

Friday, May 20, 2011 at 15:58
Yep sure does. So if you upgrade your starter you will have no problems staring woth one battery only
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Friday, May 20, 2011 at 16:13

Friday, May 20, 2011 at 16:13
Not sure what you're getting at - both have 2.7KW starters.
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Follow Up By: Roachie.kadina.sa.au - Friday, May 20, 2011 at 20:24

Friday, May 20, 2011 at 20:24
G'day Phil..... I think he/she meant it to read as... "if you upgrade your starter BATTERY you will have no problems.....

IE: "starter" is short for "starting battery"... just my interpretation.
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Friday, May 20, 2011 at 21:58

Friday, May 20, 2011 at 21:58
hehehe thanks Roachie.
Sorry CSeaJay
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Follow Up By: olcoolone - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 10:15

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 10:15
Two batteries have nothing to do with starting the vehicle, what it does have to do with is the vehicles electrical load, emissions and slow ramp up of the alternator when high current loads are needed.

Things are done in new vehicles not for logical reasons but more for engineering goals.

Over the years we have done a lot of schooling on new vehicle electrical systems and it has always been pointed out a so called fault may of been engineered in to offset something.

A lot of the stuff we are learning about advanced vehicle electronics is why something has been designed that way, once you understand that it's easier to understand to fault and if it is a fault or not.



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Follow Up By: Roachie.kadina.sa.au - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 12:14

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 12:14
G'day Richard,
So with all that in mind, what are your thoughts on separating the OE dual batteries, so that one is a dedicated starter etc whilst the other becomes a dedicated aux battery?

I'm of the opinion it is better to leave the OE stuff alone and add an extra battery for the accessories we fit.

Keen to read your thoughts.

Roachie
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Follow Up By: olcoolone - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 17:56

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 17:56
Bill I heard you have finally come to your senses and welcome to the world of Toyota's..... Pesty was so excited he couldn't talk.... he ended up drawing funny little pictures to explain LOL.

But we couldn't understand the caravan thing!

Yes I agree with you to leave the two factory batteries and add a third one for aux power, we try to encourage our customer to do it that way unless they think different.

In our's we are going to two 150 amphour batteries in the back charged by a RedArc BCDC1240, hopefully we will start the battery and charger install in the next few weeks and see how the RedArc BCDC1240 works..... Looking forward in trying the MPPT solar reg in the RedArc BCDC1240.

With aux battery size; bigger is better and 100 amphours is a bit small hence why we are going to mount them in the back.
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Follow Up By: Roachie.kadina.sa.au - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 20:25

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 20:25
Richard,
Reference to "caravan" ....it's the logical next step for a bloke who is getting "soft"...

I've gone from the strongest 4x4 (Patrol) and camper trailer , to now having a "soft" 4x4.

So the next logical step will be to go the whole hog and get a wobbly box to drag behind the soft-roader.....hahahaha
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Follow Up By: olcoolone - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 21:26

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 21:26
Soooooo!!!!! the H/T tyre thing is a joke or for real?

Also heard a rumor a long range tank isn't needed in your new bus, my source said your not going to travel more then 200 kilometers from a major town....... were they pulling my leg?




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Follow Up By: Member - Captain (WA) - Sunday, May 22, 2011 at 01:02

Sunday, May 22, 2011 at 01:02
Hi Richard,

Any reason you prefer a 3rd battery, while Toyota themselves prompt splitting the OEM batteries?

Cheers

Captain
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Follow Up By: olcoolone - Sunday, May 22, 2011 at 08:55

Sunday, May 22, 2011 at 08:55
It might be a Toyota dealer who suggests splitting the batteries but I don't think Toyota Motor Co. would recommended it.

Being a Denso Service Centre we deal with Denso, Toyota Motor Co. and Toyota dealers and I know how Denso and Toyota Motor Co. don't like things being changed and if they do approve it how much work goes into approvals.... try nearly 12 months for a simple wiring loom to be approved.

There are many not so smart people at dealerships and the same goes for auto elecs.

What may appear as a good logical modification in most cases doesn't alway mean it is good for the long term.

The easy way out is not always the best.

I have nothing against it and if it works good but we have the opinion of do it right the first time and don't down grade on thing to upgrade another.
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FollowupID: 728046

Follow Up By: Roachie.kadina.sa.au - Sunday, May 22, 2011 at 09:37

Sunday, May 22, 2011 at 09:37
Richard,
The H/T tyre thing was a joke.... Here is a list of the mods I've done in the past 6 weeks or so since I bought this rig:

2" suspension lift (including front diff drop arm)
5 new Dick Cepek FCII (285/75R16)
Beaudesert Exhaust
Cargo barrier (ebay)
Redarc BCDC charger (in cargo area)
100a/h AGM 3rd battery (in cargo area)
Redarc brake controller (remote head)
GME 3440
DP Chip (ebay)
Safari snorkel (it was heart-in-mouth kind-a stuff drilling all those holes)
Best Off-Road single cargo drawer. (due here in the next 2 days)
Home made (Dexion steel) fridge slide
Engel 40 litre (kept from my last rig)
Sheepskin seat covers
Floor mats
Re-wired the trailer coupling with 12 pin (for Ultimate Camper Trailer)
Dash mat
Hardwired Maxair compressor (ebay)
Rhino flat roof rack (ie: has no sides poking up; keeps max height to 2m)
LED reverse lights (on underside of roof rack)
Pair of Lightforce 170 HID converted spotties
Thermoguard EGT gauge
2 x TM2 temp gauges (engine coolant and gearbox)
300w inverter
2 x extra fuse blocks (one under bonnet and the other in cargo area)
Polaris in-dash GPS/Bluetooth/twin reverse camera/ipod etc) (expected next week)
Pin 7 mod

With the exception of the suspension, tyres and exhaust fit-up (I'm too old to be crawling around on the ground), I've done all this stuff myself.....

Cheers

Roachie
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