Weight Distribution Hitch V's Old Style Sway Bars?

Submitted: Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 08:20
ThreadID: 86441 Views:16675 Replies:5 FollowUps:32
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Hello,
We have taken the Plunge and brought our first van. A Paramount Duet 18" with the Off Road Option.
We have a 2010 Mitsubishi Challenger fitted with Old Man Emu Suspension. I have just fitted a Red Arc Electric Brake Controller, now for the extra towing bits..
Can anyone tell what is a better option? I was originally going to just fit a set of '4 bar' sway bars (Old Style) But after reading a fair few forums, I am curious to know what is the benefit of paying allot more for a Weight Distribution set up? Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Adam
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Reply By: Notso - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 08:34

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 08:34
Chalk and Cheese,

The Hayman reese WDH is a much superior option, I used the old goose neck type bars for about 5 years. Changed to a H R system and there is a huge difference. The package feels like a single unit, it is more stable, the unit handles better.

Would never go back.

The HR system and the others don't work all that well with some Off Road Hitches as they restrict the articulation. So if you have anything other than a standard Ball Coupling seek some professional advice as to the HR suitability.
AnswerID: 455010

Follow Up By: Member - Rod N (QLD) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 12:04

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 12:04
If you are on a track where large articulation is required then the WDH should be removed. It is recommended that WDH be removed when crossing spoon drains, speed humps and when reversing. Even crossing the footpath into service stations can be a no-no for WDH. It has to do with excessive loads applied to the tow bar when extreme maneuvers are experienced.
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Follow Up By: Adam J - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 12:47

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 12:47
Thanks Rod, This will definitely be something to consider, as I live in central Queensland, it may prove more trouble than worth.. So many decisions to make re towing a van! Such a difference than the old camper trailer. Thanks for your input.
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Follow Up By: Member - Rod N (QLD) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 12:59

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 12:59
This a full copy of WDH instructions for my vehicle. Doesn't leave many places where I can use WDH.

"General Operating Instructions for the use of Load Levelling Devices

• Disengage the Spring Bars of the Load Leveller / Weight Distribution system when
driving or reversing into and out of driveways.
• The Load Leveller / Weight Distribution system must be disengaged (the spring/torsion
bars must be released) when –
o Negotiating rough, uneven terrain
o Entering or exiting
?? driveways,
?? short steep gutters,
?? access ramps,
?? speed humps and dips
o negotiating tight, acute turns at low speeds, such as when reversing or
manoeuvring; or
o when travelling up/down abrupt steep inclines
?? i.e. severe, undulating road surfaces, creek crossings etc
• Drivers must proceed with caution when negotiating corrugated roads and approach
inclines slowly whilst the Load Leveller / Weight Distribution system is in use.
o Disengagement of the torsion / spring bars may be necessary to prevent undue
load and stress on the frame / towing coupling and/or hitch assembly.
The above is a general summary of various manufacturers Operating Instructions for the use of Load Levelling Devices. Refer to the manufacturer of your load levelling device/s and/or towing equipment for specific details."

Note the reference to undulating road surfaces. This would cover most country roads.
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Follow Up By: Member - barry F (NSW) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 13:09

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 13:09
Hi Rod, I'm interested in your comment whereby it is recommended that the WDH be removed when crossing spoon drains, speed humps, reversing & crossing footpaths when entering service stations.

Our WDH is a Hayman Reese and the literature supplied with it does not mention removing it for the above manouvers.

Would you mind telling us who makes the recommendation for removing it. Many thanks & cheers.
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Follow Up By: Member - barry F (NSW) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 13:16

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 13:16
Sorry Rod, looks like we crossed paths, you have answered my question, however I find it strange, as you have already stated if you were to comply with that instruction the whole exercise would be more trouble than its worth.

We don't go off road & have never removed ours for the more everyday circumstances, nor have I ever witnessed anybody else removing theirs for those reasons.
I'm not suggesting that that makes it right, just an observation. Cheers
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Follow Up By: Notso - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 13:25

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 13:25
That sounds a lot like a car manufacturer covering all the bases.

Likewise Barry, I never disconnect when reversing, going over humps, undulating roads or reversing over my street drain into the driveway. If we did that there'd be a whole lot of people around the world wasted their money EH.

Never seen anyone else doing it either.
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Follow Up By: Member - Rod N (QLD) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 13:34

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 13:34
I don't follow it slavishly either. I guess you have to do your own risk assessment and decide what is best for you.
Of course there are many 'stories' of towbar damage around, just depends on the vehicle and towbar set up.
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Follow Up By: snoopyone - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 13:41

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 13:41
That big long diatribe doesnt seem to be written by Hayman Reece as per the last sentence

"The above is a general summary of various manufacturers Operating Instructions for the use of Load Levelling Devices. Refer to the manufacturer of your load levelling device/s and/or towing equipment for specific details."

So where did it come from..

A summary of the usage would be to say that using one with minor reservations far outweighs any disadvantages..

I only undo mine when reversing into van sites.

They do impose extra loads when going through creek beds for instance and this should be allowed for.

Also if you havent enough links on the chains you can rip out a u bolt when turning as the inner bar moves back and the outer one forward so you need at least 4 links and preferably 5 free.
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Follow Up By: Notso - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 13:56

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 13:56
The Triton Manual only says "As a weight distribution hitch transfers weight to the trailer Ensure that the Load capacity of your trailer wheels is not exceeded" or words to that effect.
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Reply By: Member - barry F (NSW) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 10:31

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 10:31
Hi Adam, I would agree 100% with what Notso said. The cost is money well spent as the system can be fully adjusted to suit your particular rig & if you set it up correctly makes for a much safer & comfortable ride.

Hayman Reese supply easy to follow instructions as to how to do the initial set up & how to fine tune it which can take a little while, but once done you will find hitching up very quick & easy & you will be very happy with the stability & safety the unit provides. Cheers & happy travelling.
AnswerID: 455025

Reply By: Member - Phil 'n Jill (WA) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 14:30

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 14:30
Hi Adam

There appears to be some confusion over the term 'weight distribution hitch' - or as far as my own perception of what can be used in your circumstance.

I have what I call a 'WDH' but I was corrected in Thread 83621 (follow-up) 7 with a good picture of a Hayman Reese Towbar.

I then found my notes which show the style in the picture (which is similar to my Mitsubishi bar) and it is referred to as a 'Hitch receiver - weight distributing towbar)

One has to be ever so careful with terms here, as one person's description will differ from others.

The point is that you can achieve 'weight distribution' from the tow bar/hitch receiver when you upgrade from a standard 130/150 kg towbar to a 250 or larger (depending on manufacturer) towbar. The extension of the bar underneath the vehicle on both sides allows it to 'distribute' the extra weight.

This then allows the use of a fully rotating Treg hitch and avoid the need for equipment which limits your 'articulation' - IMHO.



The description I have describes 'Towbars and Hitches' as: Generally there are two types of towbars, weight carrying and weight distributing. The first is designed to pull small loads or perhaps support a bicycle carrier. A weight carrying towbar generally uses a flat ball mount or lug that is attached by two bolts. A weight distribution towbar, often referred to as a hitch receiver, is designed to accept additional equipment light a weight distributing hitch. Regulations require that a plate stating the capacity is fixed to the towbar or in a position that is visible to the vehicle owner.

Someone recently posted the pictures depicted with this article, but I can't find them in my 'search'.

Someone else more vigilant may be able to reproduce the thread???

The towbar I have was perfectly suited to towing an off-road van through all of the above circumstances that cause concern for 'other WDH' styles.

Good luck

Regards - Phil
AnswerID: 455036

Follow Up By: farouk - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 16:05

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 16:05
Hi,
I have been caravanning for 24 years and have had 4 caravans a 17 foot 20 foot 21 foot and a 25 footer and have been using a hayman reece for all of the time, I have never removed the bars to negotiate spoon drains etc or backing on to a c/park site and have never experienced any problems .
In all honesty I have never ever seen any other caravanner remove their's either.

Colin
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Follow Up By: Adam J - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 16:42

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 16:42
So confused.. But thanks for all your feedback.
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Follow Up By: Member - Bruce C (NSW) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 16:42

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 16:42
Hi Phil, you are very correct in your comment about descriptions.

I would suggest any hitch setup that distributes weight is a weight distribution hitch.

I have seen a Reese WDH hitch sheer the hitch receiver clean off a tow bar. It was when Dave Gall towed their caravan along a sandy track near Bundaberg in south East Qld. The vehicle dropped down a dip in the road and sheered the hitch receiver clean off the towbar.

That is why I like the 4 bar goose neck type WDH as they allow greater flex. Hayman Reese are a bit to rigid, in my opinion, for my needs as I have to travel off road just to get on to the road. To each his own.
Cheers, Bruce
At home and at ease on a track that I know not and
restless and lost on a track that I know. HL.

Lifetime Member
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FollowupID: 727966

Follow Up By: blown4by - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 17:09

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 17:09
There is only one WDH and no confusion as far as I am concerned. The bit that bolts to the car is called the towbar and no matter how or where it is bolted on it does not distribute the downwards load imposed on the towbar by the item being towed. That is where the WDH comes in and always consists of two torsion bars (with some variations) which are sized to suit the downwards load imposed on the towbar which varies due the weight of the vehicle being towed and the placement of its axles. The torsion bar tension can be adjusted to suit the downwards load and they work by taking some weight off the wheels on the vehicle being towed as well as some weight that is imposed on the towbar and moves that weight to the front wheels of the towing vehicle, hence the name: WDH. This can and has been proven by measuring the weight on each of the three axles before and after the torsion bars are fitted and adjusted. The benefits are a level towing attitude of the combination, no sagging at the rear of the towing vehicle, safer handling, better steering as all the weight is not taken off the front of the towing vehicle and placed on the rear axle, better braking because the front wheels no longer lock up, better vision at night because the headlamps are not point at the moon and dazzling oncoming drivers and better fuel economy because the vehicle "glides" along rather than "lugging" and has to continually be "prodded" via the accelerator to keep up to the desired cruising speed. I have no doubt that a heavy duty towbar such as a Hayman Reese distributes the load imposed on it over a larger area of the vehicle chassis/body depending on where its mounting bolts are located but that is not what is meant by a WDH. The HD HR towbar has a square hitch receiver apperture or "hole" which can accept a WDH which is designed with a wide range of adjustable angles and mountings to receive the torsion bars. It can also accept a normal 50mm ball mount or when the ball is removed various types of other couplings.
BTW I have used one for about 30 years towing a double horse float about 2500kg all up plus the movement of the horses to contend with and mine are the chain tensioner type and I have never disconnected the bars apart from when removing the float and when attempting to move forward on an incline on a slippery gravel surface. Such is the effectiveness of the WDH that if over adjusted it can remove too much weight from the towing vehicle rear axle that it will just spin the wheels and not move forward in that situation.
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Follow Up By: snoopyone - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 17:27

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 17:27
What you say is correct to a point.

My interpretation of a 'Hitch receiver - weight distributing towbar)
is that the model accepts a WDH whereas the lighter class 2 bars do not

The heavier towbar as pictured does "Distribute the forces of the Load"
by having longer arms under the chassis to make it stronger.
However if it did not have the vertical fixings on the cross rail it would be actually weaker.
In actual fact if you think about it correctly the longer the arms under the chassis rail the more upward pressure it would apply thereby applying the forces the WDH is designed to correct.

Why, because the towball is behind the fixing on the rear of the chassis.

Apply force on that and it will pivot (theoretically) on the vertical fixing thereby applying upward pressure under the forward facing legs under the rail.

Easy to prove Loosen off your bolts underneath and apply a weight on the towball and see what happens

The object of the WDH is to re-establish weight back on the front wheels by straightening the joint between the car and the van.

Irrespective of the type of towbar you have, nothing else can do this.

The Towing rules state that the vehicle can tow either the rated capacity of the towbar or the manufacturers stated towing capacity of the vehicle
WHICHEVER IS THE LESSER.

So that means you cant put a dirty great towbar on and tow to its capacity if the vehicle is rated lower.

You can use an HR WDH with a Treg hitch Have seen quite a few on my travels However the owners say they remove them on off road tracks.

The goosenecks are only rated to about 120kg ballweight then are less effective Above that there are several different HR models for differing weights.

The thread you mention is still there with the pictures if you put the number in search
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Follow Up By: Member - John B2 (VIC) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 17:57

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 17:57
This what the Gall Bros were doing when they snapped the tow bar off

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2rfd_fEyxc

There has been a discussion on another forum re Prado cast iron tow bars failing

http://caravanersforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16617

I have towed all around Australia. firstly with a 17' 2100kg ATM and now 3080kg ATM using a HR tow bar and HR WDH.

Touch wood, no problems and would not tow without a WDH

Cheers,
John
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Follow Up By: snoopyone - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 18:33

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 18:33
There was also one on here. I know the owner personally.

What happened was the cast part in front of the towball snapped and it along with the chains and the van disconnected from the car.

Toyota have apparently altered the chain attaching points so that it cant happen again.

I would suggest anyone towing with this type of bar change to a n HR one which is much safer.

No one in their right mind would do half of what the Gall boys do and I think they admitted they had stressed things way beyond normal limits.
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil 'n Jill (WA) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 19:40

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 19:40
Hi All

No argument from me on the benefit and the true means of transferring the load from back to front of the vehicle.

I do believe though that with a heavy due 'towbar', decent springs to negate the 10% ball weight impacting on the headlights and all factors being kept not only legal but realistic, you may not need to deal with what I consider cumbersome WDH bars & chains, which by the way I was advised would need to be removed 'off-road'. That left me in a quandary at the time, with an off-road van with ball weight 'dry' at 143 kg - not shown on the van plates by the way, I had to ring the manufacturer with the frame number 3 times before I got that info.

My concern then was that the handbook stated the Total trailer mass - was 1350 kg with trailer brakes, then 1350 to 2500 kg with trailer brakes and a weight distributing hitch recommended.

When I finally discovered my bar was legal to 2500 kg I had no further problem because the van towed beautifully.

I have since shifted to a heavier van with 210 ball weight - still legal and still towing comfortably.

Having said all that - if the configuration did not tow properly, I would be looking at the HR WDH system, as I no longer have an 'off-roader'.

Phil
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Follow Up By: Member - John B2 (VIC) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 20:01

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 20:01
Phil,

Your tow bar might be legal, but is your tongue rated at 250kg.

My Landcruiser 100 series towbar is rated at 3500kg, but the original tongue has a max tow ball weight of 120kg to get a higher tow ball weight I must use a WDH

Cheers,
John
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil 'n Jill (WA) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 20:13

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 20:13
Hi John

I presume it is - it came with the vehicle and is the same design as the HR 'htch receiver' - square tube style and I note that it has two 'gusset' welds to strengthen it and that prevents the hitch from being inverted to set it in a higher position for the off roader. Solved that by getting a second unit from a local company which was compliant, according to the supplier. Back to the original for the latest van.

Cheers - Phil
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Follow Up By: Member - John B2 (VIC) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 20:25

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 20:25
Hi Phil

I have genuine HR not Toyota.

The original tongue is reversible, as I use it with my off road camper trailer but is only rated at 120kg.

When I tow my 3080kg ATM caravan I use a HR WDH to legally comply.

The point I have been trying to make is the tow bar has one rating and the tongue has one also.

Because the tow bar is rated at 2500kg the tongue might only be rated at 120kg
so therefore you are at risk

All I am trying to say is check the tow ball loading allowed on the tongue you are using, not the tow bar capacity.

Cheers,
John
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Follow Up By: snoopyone - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 20:27

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 20:27
Strange John B2 as most Toyota 100 ser have the weight on the tongue and the 3500 towbars and tongues are rated to that And the cruiser is rated to 350kg towball weight.




I have two towbars for mine
One is the factory one and one is a Trailboss, made by HR and both have the static towball weight as 350kg and they came with tonues so presume they rate to what the towbar does

To Phil despite your confidence that it tows beautifully it would still benefit

from a WDH because no matter what you do with springs or airbags

YOU DONT RETURN WEIGHT TO THE FRONT AXLE
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Follow Up By: Member - John B2 (VIC) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 21:03

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 21:03
Snoopyone

Not strange I am quoting what is on my HR compliance plate



Cheers,
John
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Follow Up By: snoopyone - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 21:27

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 21:27
Must check what the one that came with the Trailboss is then the part no is 5161..
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Follow Up By: Member - John B2 (VIC) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 21:42

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 21:42
My compliance plate

https://picasaweb.google.com/JohnLynB/TowBar?authkey=Gv1sRgCOWuqO-O2piBAw#slideshow/5609132672424618866

Fact not fiction

Cheers,
John
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Follow Up By: snoopyone - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 21:57

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 21:57
Didnt doubt you at all but makes you wonder why they would put such a light weight tongue on a heavyweight tongue doesnt it.

You have me concerned so will check what my ordinary one actually is
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Follow Up By: snoopyone - Sunday, May 22, 2011 at 08:21

Sunday, May 22, 2011 at 08:21
Hmm Should proof read more Meant light tongue on heavyweight bar

Will email HR tomorrow for some definite answers.
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Follow Up By: snoopyone - Monday, May 23, 2011 at 14:13

Monday, May 23, 2011 at 14:13
To John B2 If you email me at Travelledout@hotmail.com I will forward to you some interesting information re towbars I got from HR this morning.

Cheers
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Follow Up By: Member - John B2 (VIC) - Monday, May 23, 2011 at 19:29

Monday, May 23, 2011 at 19:29
snoopyone,

Thank you for your time and effort to clarify the discrepancy, I will contact HR ASAP


Please keep posting here, as you provide great information which is factual due to your research.

Cheers,
John
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Reply By: Member - Phil 'n Jill (WA) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 16:51

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 16:51
Adam - might pay to check with your Mitsubishi agent for their opinion of what is suitable for your vehicle and van - they should be able to provide you with the correct unit. - Phil
AnswerID: 455045

Follow Up By: snoopyone - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 20:49

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 20:49
Which Mitsubishi vehicle do you have.
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil 'n Jill (WA) - Sunday, May 22, 2011 at 02:11

Sunday, May 22, 2011 at 02:11
Snoopy - the NM diesel Pajero.


John - will now investigate further.

Adam - It does pay to throw these thing into a forum - amazing what you learn. Like many threads on EO this has provided considerable pieces of advice to ponder.

Top value fellas....

Cheers - Phil
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Follow Up By: Adam J - Sunday, May 22, 2011 at 07:56

Sunday, May 22, 2011 at 07:56
Couldn't agree more Phil.
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Reply By: Member - barry F (NSW) - Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 19:35

Saturday, May 21, 2011 at 19:35
Hi again Adam, I don't blame you for being confused by a lot of info so far! Much of it by way of interpretations etc & many unrelated in a direct sense to your question.
However your original question was, I think , simply what is the better option between the "goose neck" type or a fully fledged WDH similar to a Hayman Reese unit.

I guess the "better" option is a matter of personal opinion, and your opinion can become better informed & assisted by feedback provided by some of the answers & experience provided by fellow caravanners as above responses thus far.
My understanding is, and im happy to be corrected, when you place weight upon your tow ball it lifts the front of the vehicle in varying degrees, dependant upon your rig. This lifting has the potential to effect your steering & braking capacity.

The purpose of choice between Goose Neck or a Hayman Reese system is to correct this situation by transferring some of the weight placed upon your tow ball back to the front of the tow vehicle, thereby re-establishing your steering geometry & your braking capacity. It is a matter for you to decide which type of unit does this in the most efficient manner.

For my money the HR WDH wins hands down because it can be fine tuned to suit your particular choice of trailer & your particular choice of tow vehicle. But that is just my opinion & therefore not necessarily the "Ants Pants" & the so called "best"option.

Which ever way you decide to go, you will enjoy the life & safe travelling. Cheers

AnswerID: 455061

Follow Up By: Adam J - Sunday, May 22, 2011 at 07:55

Sunday, May 22, 2011 at 07:55
Hi Barry and everyone else who replied. Your feedback has been very informative. Thanks for all your comments, after reading them several times, I think I will be purchasing a HDR when picking up the van in a couple of weeks.
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