Alternator buggered, now charging drama 100 series TD
Submitted: Monday, May 30, 2011 at 21:52
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Andrew(WA)
Guys, Help.
Was travelling
home from a weekend away yesterday when suddenly the battery warning light illumates on the dash. Volts drop to about 10 when usually sitting on 14.
Car keeps going, no dramas until I get
home when I turn her off. Then she won't start, dead as a door nail.
This morning I call the auto sparky who does his thing...tells me the alternator is stuffed and it looked stuffed to. coils had come lose on one of the phases and were an obvious different colour from the rest.
OK, new alternator fitted...I take the car for a 5 minute drive to charge the batteries up and the battery warning light comes on again....!!!!!!AHHRRGGG!
I take it back....auto sparky checks it out and scratches head. He seems to think that the batteries may have been so drained that it is effecting the recharge????? I don't get it!
The cranking batteries were both replaced less that 6 months ago.
I have left the car with the autosparky who is charging the batteries overnight...
Anyone got any ideas???
cheers
Reply By: Member - Rodney B- Monday, May 30, 2011 at 22:52
Monday, May 30, 2011 at 22:52
Me thinks Sparky is telling porky pies. Idea of alternator is to charge batteries no matter how flat. Don't get ripped off
check with another sparky if in doubt.
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Follow Up By: Shaker - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:17
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:17
An alternator won't charge a dead flat battery as it needs power to "excite" the diodes.
An old fashioned generator will cahrge a flat battery.
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Follow Up By: Member Al (Sunshine Coast) - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:34
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:34
Excite the field winding actually, not the diodes.
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Follow Up By: Member - Tony V (NSW) - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:51
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:51
Well I'm excited.... lol
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Reply By: SDG - Monday, May 30, 2011 at 23:58
Monday, May 30, 2011 at 23:58
Human error. Maybe just one nut not done up properly, or maybe the belt. Something simple. Could even be a faulty new (or was it reconditioned?) alternator.
The battery should not have been drained totally flat, unless you had lights running or other electrical. You will drain some from brake lights.
A mate of
mine had a similar problem, and needed to drive 100km in the dark, using the headlights from my vehicle. As far as I know he did not get any battery problems from this. He will correct me if needed here.
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Follow Up By: get outmore - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:53
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:53
im going with this one
something up with the install or alternator still
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Reply By: Member - Bucky - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 04:53
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 04:53
Andrew
I am not a rocket scientist, but maybe you have failed to realize a couiple of things.
Fully draining battery's, can kill them.
If a battery in drained, it will take more than a 5 minute drive to charge them up..(if at all).......namely 1 over-night (if lucky) and most likely 2 over-nights on a charger to charge.
I have a smart charger, that automatically steps down the charge when needed, so it dosen't keep pumping "juice " into batteries, when not needed, and boiling them.
Have you had the batteries tested, ie with a load meter, and/or a hydrometer. They are the best indicators to tell you if the battery's are dead
Is the new alternator the correct one, ie the right one for the vehicle ?...you never know, mistakes can be easily made, and it pays to
check.
Hope some of this helps, and you battery's come back up to power.
Cheers
Bucky
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Andrew(WA) - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:50
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:50
I'm no rocket scientist either, that's why I use an auto sparky to do the job!
I wouldn't know one alternator from another but the new one does appear identicle to look at....as the other.
The batteries were both new about 6months ago...and she started just fine on Sunday before driving
home when the battery light came on. Then it wouldn't start. (a 2 hr drive)
That's a bit weird because having started fine, I didn't have any lights on or anything but they went flat????
Anyway, we'll see what the sparky says today and go from there. He has been charging the batteries overnight.
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Reply By: Member - MUZBRY(Vic) - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 07:02
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 07:02
Gday
Also remember that the alternator has to be excited by the battery to work. So if battery is flat, then there is no excitement .
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Follow Up By: Shaker - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:17
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:17
Go to the top of the class!
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Follow Up By: Member Al (Sunshine Coast) - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:33
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:33
If the battery was flat how was the engine started anyway? Even if it was started by jumper leads there would be excitation voltage available. Maybe a possible "black start" for a diesel rolling down a
hill, but otherwise.............!
More to this than meets the eye.
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Follow Up By: Member - Tony V (NSW) - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:57
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:57
Al,
I know older diesels will push start, but will a modern diesel roll start if there is not enough voltage/power to run the computer (engine management system)?
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Follow Up By: get outmore - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:57
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 09:57
not sure who told you that but ive had plenty of dead flat batteries jump started ( we have to have the lights on to drive around for work and sometimes they get left on till the battery couldnt be any flatter)
and while it does the battery no good, after jump starting we dive them round for a bit and they get charge back into them no worries
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Follow Up By: Member Al (Sunshine Coast) - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 11:09
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 11:09
Tony, I was relating to Muzbry and saying that even with a dead-flat battery, if a The engine jump-started then the application of the support battery will provide voltage to excite the alternator and get charging going.
I also did say "possible" black start to avoid descending into too much detail. Certainly diesels with engine management systems will need 12V available to get going and even older ones will gave fuel cutout solenoids to be energised before a start will succeed.
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Follow Up By: Member Al (Sunshine Coast) - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 11:11
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 11:11
Who told who what get Outmore?
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Follow Up By: get outmore - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 11:23
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 11:23
first post and follow up and also it was posted further up that an alternator cant charge a dead flat battery
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Follow Up By: Member Al (Sunshine Coast) - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 11:46
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 11:46
Well yes, of course it can. Or rather, an alternator can feed current to a dead flat battery but whether it succeeds in raising a charged state in the battery depends on the condition of the battery. If it is truly dead-flat it may be just that .....dead, permanently dead, and un-chargeable!
Some "intelligent" battery chargers do however require some voltage to be present in the connected battery before they will begin to charge.
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Follow Up By: Shaker - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 15:53
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 15:53
Alternators require voltage!
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Follow Up By: Member - MUZBRY(Vic) - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 16:16
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 16:16
Thanks Shaker
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Follow Up By: Member Al (Sunshine Coast) - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 16:18
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 16:18
Yes Shaker, they do need the application of an initial voltage in order to energise the field winding but it does not necessarily need to be a full 12V or much current.
Even a battery which might be described as "dead flat" in that it only has a couple of volts and can supply very little current can still supply sufficient to the alternator field to get it up and going. Providing of course that no other loads are sapping everything from the battery. It is even possible to kick-start an alternator by hooking up a couple of 1.5v D cells to the field. I wouldn't want to have to rely on it routinely mind you but would rig it if there were no other way to get going.
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Follow Up By: SDG - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 17:07
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 17:07
Last christmas I ran mine flat by leaving the parkers on for the day. A volt meter gave a reading just over half a volt, so it was flat. Using a jump start pack, borrowed from a car yard across the road, it started straight up. 96 diesel Patrol.
This battery was in poor condition, but lasted till last week when I got a new one. Just needed to throw a charger on it every few weeks.
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Reply By: Kimba10 - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 15:11
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 15:11
So whats the volts reading now with the new alternator in it ??.............
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Follow Up By: Andrew(WA) - Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 18:40
Tuesday, May 31, 2011 at 18:40
It was the same as with the buggered one but now after a recharge overnight, it all seems to be fine.
Was charging at about 10v now over 14v
Looks like the trouble was low batteries...and I have 3 because the TD has 2 for cranking and I have 1 for the accessories.
After a recharge over night, the alternator seems to be doing its job.
Thanks for all the replies.
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Reply By: Member - Bucky - Wednesday, Jun 01, 2011 at 03:06
Wednesday, Jun 01, 2011 at 03:06
Andrew
A wise man told me once that an alternator only puts a "surface charge" back into a battery. So if by chance, you do short, stop-start runnning, around town, ect, then battery's all of a sudden go flat, and won't crank....real head scratching stuff....
I have always had a problem with that statement, as my question is " so what happens to all that energy, the alternator has been generating, and sometimes for hours ?".....It certainly has to go somewhere....
Cheers
Bucky
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Follow Up By: Member Al (Sunshine Coast) - Wednesday, Jun 01, 2011 at 10:02
Wednesday, Jun 01, 2011 at 10:02
Bucky, with an engine and battery in good condition, a normal start with cranking of only several seconds, very little energy is taken from the battery. Less than 0.5ah. With the alternator now charging at about 30 amps that energy is replaced within a couple of minutes. All is good. This scenario changes dramatically when (a) the engine does not readily start and needs to be cranked for some extended time or (b) the alternator is playing up and not putting in its proper charge or (c) the battery is under the weather and not accepting or holding a charge. That then is another story and some maintenance is indicated.
So even stop-start running is acceptable provided that it is not ridiculously extreme. Those who are operating in stop-start mode such as delivery couriers have no problems unless their vehicles are crook whereupon they attend to it.
So you had good reason to question your "wise man"s proclamation.
Incidentally, the alternator does not necessarily produce "all that energy" for hours unless the battery has been
well depleted (as is the case with an auxiliary battery after feeding a fridge overnight) . Once the alternator replaces the batterie's delivered energy and the battery voltage has risen to the "fully charged" value then current reduces to little or no amount and the alternator is simply idling. Apart from small loads such as engine management or radio etc. no energy is going anywhere.
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Follow Up By: Member - Bucky - Wednesday, Jun 01, 2011 at 11:42
Wednesday, Jun 01, 2011 at 11:42
Al
Then can I safely say, if the vehicle/batterys don't need power then the Alternator will only produce and little more than a trickle ?
Eureka ! !!!!!
Finally
Cheers
Bucky
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Follow Up By: Member Al (Sunshine Coast) - Wednesday, Jun 01, 2011 at 11:48
Wednesday, Jun 01, 2011 at 11:48
Yep Bucky, you got it!
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Follow Up By: Member - Frank P (NSW) - Wednesday, Jun 01, 2011 at 17:37
Wednesday, Jun 01, 2011 at 17:37
Al said
"Apart from small loads such as engine management or radio etc."
I don't know what constitutes a "small load", but on my D4D Prado - ie, diesel, no electric ignition, but lots of electronic trickerey to go wrong in the bush, the engine need 13 amps just to keep it running. Saw it on a diagnostic
test printout, with no other electrical loads switched on or connected, just idling in neutral. I was quite surprised.
A petrol motor would need even more, I imagine, due to ignition.
Cheers
Frank
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Follow Up By: Member Al (Sunshine Coast) - Wednesday, Jun 01, 2011 at 18:16
Wednesday, Jun 01, 2011 at 18:16
Yes Frank, I think 13 amps is getting to be a rather larger "small load".
I am grateful that my old Troopy has no electronic trickery .
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Reply By: Member - Boobook - Wednesday, Jun 01, 2011 at 07:14
Wednesday, Jun 01, 2011 at 07:14
Wow this thread should be used as a text book case of a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, and lots of it is even more dangerous.
While it is hard to diagnose porblems over the internet with limited information, if there was enough "ENERGY" to start the vehicle, then the alternator should take over from there if all is working. However in this case there is a fault which looks like it isn't the Alternator, although it is possible that the new one is faulty ( or not new!).
Even crappy batteries won't lead to an 'under voltage' situation with the alternator light on. BTW the alternator light means there is no field current.
The first place I would be looking is at the Alt-s fuse. If that is blown the alternator won't charge and the light will come on. After that is confirmed ok I would say you have a poor connection in the Alternator circuit. Probably a plug unplugged or bad.
I'll bet once you get it working the old alternator is as good as the day it left Toyota. If so get a refund, or at least get it back. Once the fault is rectified, put the old alternator back in to tesdt if it was ok. That way you confirmt he fault and have a reason to go back tot he sparky. If all else fails you have a known good spare.
Your Auto Elec should have tested the new alternator though.
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Reply By: kiwicol - Thursday, Jun 02, 2011 at 07:26
Thursday, Jun 02, 2011 at 07:26
There is a fuse in the charge sysytem , if that blows no charge to battery, happened to a mate same thing, new alt no charge.
Cheers Col
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