Conventional Carvan conversion

Submitted: Saturday, Jun 11, 2011 at 16:42
ThreadID: 86894 Views:2687 Replies:3 FollowUps:2
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Hi all,

Just signed up and am very new to the forum thing.
I need some technical advice. Currently own a conventional dual axel 19ft van. Am planning a trip up cape york and across to broome and dwon to perth. Wanting to go through the daintree while up cape york. Due to this am wanting to do a off road suspension conversion to the van with independent suspension, raising it up by 2-4 inches (as my patrol has a 2inch suspension lift and a 2inch body lift), off road tyres etc. My question is: Is the chassis on a conventional van strong enough to handle off road travel, as well as the walls etc? Can the suspension conversion be done? and is it worth if $$$ wise or am i better off buying an off road van? Trying to work on a budget.

PLEASE HELP AS I DON'T KNOW WHERE TO TURN!!
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Reply By: Motherhen - Saturday, Jun 11, 2011 at 18:27

Saturday, Jun 11, 2011 at 18:27
Hi matthewflashgordon

You haven't told us what the caravan is or what you intend to tow with. Unless the whole van has been built very sturdy (unlikely), you will just be making a conventional van on a stronger chassis and tempting the top to come apart. How are cupboards attached? Is it dust proof? In my opinion, it is sure to be cheaper in the long run to sell and purchase a purpose built rough road van suitable for roads such as to Cape York. You will then have a van that can tackle other outback roads. Bear in mind that the label off road may have little to do with the vans capabilities in outback road situations, and the term varies from brand to brand, so do your homework and read the fine print. Tow vehicle is also important, and you may find when you get a suitable van and add your load for the long trip, that it is outside of the specifications for your tow vehicle.

Motherhen
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Follow Up By: matthewflashgorton - Saturday, Jun 11, 2011 at 20:44

Saturday, Jun 11, 2011 at 20:44
Hi Motherhen,

Thanks for the prompt reply and advice. The van is a 1999 Gazal Infinity. The cupboards are attached with hindges and twist 2 point lock. Very hard to open with just vibration. IT appears to be dust proof as there are no vents in the doors etc. It is a full piece van (not pop top or extender). Had it for a couple of years and got it second hand from a bloke who bought it just to take it round the country once. I've only taken it on weekends and twice to townsville from the sunny coast for christmas. Ran smooth as behind my 2007 3.0L patrol. Otherwise it's sat in my garage since i bought it. Is in pretty good nick. I was thinking however that I would be better off selling it and as you said buying a purpose built van for the trip. Was just curious in which way to tackle it. Thanks for the advice.
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Follow Up By: Motherhen - Saturday, Jun 11, 2011 at 22:00

Saturday, Jun 11, 2011 at 22:00
Yes, Snoopyone has read me correctly about the cupboards. He is also correct about the need for door vents, and something manufactured in 1999 would surely have complied with this requirement. Does it also have a roof vent - four seasons or similar? I thought this was an essential component for air flow for gas leaks too (one in one out).

We had an old off road model wind up caravan/camper. Dust poured in through the four seasons covering the slide out beds with a thick layer of red dust. With a full height van your would get less roof dust, but hit a patch of bulldust and it will shower your whole van. Dust poured in around the wheel arches and through the door seal. It had the most amazing cupboard latches which held, however the cupboards were made of chipboard and regular hinges had been used, not special chip board hinges. This meant each night after shaking the bedding, sweeping the floor and wiping the furniture, i got a box of matches and a bottle of wood glue to replace the hinges.

Our 1998 built present van was made to be dust proof. Some comes in through the door vents, but putting towelling across the vents when travelling collects the dust fairly well without preventing gas escape if left in place. The rear window no longer seals perfectly and with the dust that clouds behind us, sometimes some gets in. Anywhere cut for water or gas lines to come up from under the van need re-sealing every now and then as the sealant can come away and that is another place for dust ingression.

Mh
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Reply By: snoopyone - Saturday, Jun 11, 2011 at 21:32

Saturday, Jun 11, 2011 at 21:32
I think Motherhen is asking how the cupboards are attached to the walls not how hard they are to open.

Go over a bad road and they might end up on the floor.
The door should have louvres in the bottom as a safety vent for LPG Is actually compulsory and should never be blocked
AnswerID: 457112

Reply By: Member - David 1 - Sunday, Jun 12, 2011 at 19:20

Sunday, Jun 12, 2011 at 19:20
Hi Matt,
If your caravan's chassis is 150mm x 50mm galvanised steel box tube, it may survive an off-road trip. If it is inferior to that, then you will be taking a big risk.
If you are going to risk it anyway, there is one golden rule. When off the tar seal: always slow down for corrugated gravel roads; reduce your van's tyre pressure; go slow. Remember that all caravans and camper trailers have primitive suspensions when compared to your car/ute; what is comfortable in the cab could be shaking your van to bits.
There is only one dinkum off-road caravan built in Australia. Secondhand ones are advertised on their web site; bushtracker.com
Cheers,
David1
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