Ammetres & Shunts

Submitted: Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 10:30
ThreadID: 86999 Views:2251 Replies:6 FollowUps:4
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Hi all. I wish to install an ammetre. I have just purchased an ammetre and a shunt but am uncertain how to connect the wiring. Any advice would be appreciated. The shunt has four terminals on it. Two large and two small. The ammetre only has two terminals on it. Thank you
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Reply By: Robin Miller - Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 10:47

Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 10:47
Hi Ray


Normally a shunt is just a very low resistance with two heavy terminals.

THis low resistance path can be measured with a multimter.

If yours has 4 terminals then the extra 2 are just in parallel to make connection easy.

So the meter would go across the smaller terminals( or those more removed from the main arm).

Robin Miller

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Reply By: ABR - SIDEWINDER - Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:03

Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:03
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Reply By: oldtrack123 - Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 12:16

Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 12:16
Hi Ray

It is quite common for better quality shunts to have 4terminals
The 2 Large ones @ each end are were you connect the load cable that you must break/cut to wire it in.
It MAY be marked POS & NEG or simply + & -
The pos end goes to the battery end of the POS cable &neg end to the load end of the POS cable

NOTE IT IS NOT CONNECTED BETWEEN POS & NEG CABLES FROM THE BATTERY <ONLY IN THE POS LEAD
The 2 smaller terminals slightly back from each large terminal are the meter connection terminals
Again the one at pos end goes to the meter pos & one at neg end goes to meter neg

Peter
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Reply By: paulnsw - Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 14:04

Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 14:04
The other issue is you should not have the shunt in the circuit full time due to voltage loss. A normally closed push button capable of handling your load requirements is recommended. When you want to see the load on the ammeter you push the button and then release.
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Follow Up By: Member - Scrubby (VIC) - Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 18:09

Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 18:09
Interesting info about voltage loss.
Not being an Auto Sparkie, I wonder is it possible to locate the shunt in the neg wire immediately prior to the neg battery terminal thus having all "return current (amps)" going through the shunt.
Will this eliminate the possibility of voltage loss in the positive wire?.

Just wondering thats all.

Regards,

Scrubby.
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 19:10

Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 19:10
Its really nice to know how much current is going into the aux batteries but for reasons of simplicity I don't use a shunt. The "ammeter" is simply a millivoltmeter measuring the small voltage difference across the shunt. Why not simply measure the small voltage difference across the thick wire and fusible links between the two batteries?

I run a measuring wire from the pos terminal of each battery to a digital voltmeter (2 decimal places) in the cab. With a flick of the switch I know the voltage of each battery but also the voltage difference between the two terminals. That voltage difference is proportional to the current. So in my vehicle, I know that a 0.10 volt difference equals 5 amps going into my AGM battery in the canopy (thats what I measured with a clamp meter).

So putting it simply, if the voltage difference is not much, then the aux battery is approaching full charge which is all I want to know.
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Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Thursday, Jun 16, 2011 at 22:24

Thursday, Jun 16, 2011 at 22:24
Hi Scubby

Any voltage loss will be minor but it does not matter where the shunt is connected it will still create the SAME voltage loss in the circuit.
If the shunt is in the starter circuit ,which I would strongly advise against, a by pass switch as suggested by Paul would be required
The shunt would :
[A} present a significant voltage drop in the starter motor circuit due to the very high amperage involved
[B]put both the shunt & the meter at a very high risk of burning out unless both were rated @ many hundreds of amps
BUT relying on memory to operate a switch would be very dicey

Any problem with the bypass switch could lead to the shunt carrying excessive current .
There is really little point in having it in the starter circuit
I STRONLY ADVISE AGAINST HAVING IT SO FITTED


Peter
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Reply By: Eric Experience - Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 21:24

Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 21:24
Ray
Wiring up the shunt in the positive lead of the battery is dangerous because you have unfused high current leads under you dash. A much safer way is to place the shunt in the negative or earth lead on the battery, it will give you the same information without the risk of fire. Eric.
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Reply By: Member - Murray R (VIC) - Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 22:00

Wednesday, Jun 15, 2011 at 22:00
Ray
Its also a good idea to put a inline fuse in both of the meter wires [3 amp]. The reason being that if you get a bad connection across the shunt you will fry the meter and wiring as the current will try to flow through the meter.Also the wires going to the meter only need to be 3mm.
Murray
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Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Thursday, Jun 16, 2011 at 22:09

Thursday, Jun 16, 2011 at 22:09
HI Murray

Sorry ,but no way will any fuse protect a miilivolt meter if it cops 12v or any heavy excess voltage
Yes the cables can be very light & fuses are a good idea, as a normal protection of cables
Actually one of the advantages of the 4 terminal type is the meter really cannot suffer excess voltage due to bad load connections to the shunt,




RE, having the shunt in the negative lead, yes, agree that does reduce the risk of a fault to earth, however I would expect the shunt to be mounted & insulated so this could not occur no matter which line it is fitted in .


Peter
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