Auto transmission 2004 Toyota Sahara Landcruiser 100 series

thanku ..have just thought to post there too

Sorry got side tracked & forgot to answer your original question.

You can remove the filler plug & use your finger to check that the oil is near the level of the thread in the filler hole.

ABSOLUTELY DO NOT USE TITAN ATF in it.
The figures appear wrong also, I dont have it in front of me but I belive a service fill is about 6 litres and rebuild 9-10.

What is "see note 259"?

just seen it at the bottom thanks-still youd be a fool to put it in even if it was free. A service fill on mine cost $170, what may you save??

Out of curiosity Fish what should you use in an AUTO? Isn't ATF : Automatic Transmission Fluid? And I am guessing the 4400 refers to the grade / oil type?

Read my reply about putting wrong oil in.

It was changing roughly and banging in and out after putting Transmax in it.

Took it to Toyota who flushed it with 12 litres of WS oil and its been good since then.
Toyota said NEVER put anything else in it.

You will say of course they would

Well after my experience I believe them.

Just because a brand of oil has one specified for a transmission doesnt mean it will be perfect for it.

Incidentally the WS oil is about $25 a litre.

My flush and refill cost me $500 but I got my money back from the "Expert" in Adelaide.

A filter and refill is supposedly 3.5L according to the manual but the "Expert" stuffed 5 L into it by pressure pumping it in..
Dont know where it went but made a bloody mess.

From the Lcool site

Ensure that if the fill plug is marked WS (World Standard) you only add WS Toyota fluid and not Type IV that was used in earlier transmissions. WS is a unique 'reduced viscosity' synthetic oil for these transmissions.


You also do NOT check the level from the FILLER plug

You remove the overflow plug in the bottom of the pan and check that the level is up to the top of that ( or just below).

Probably the "Expert" put the filler in the side one of mine and filled it to the top Am probably lucky the whole thing didnt blow up

Yes I agree "Oils anit Oils".. Did you Toyota oils are made by Castrol???

All oils are probably made for car makers by someone else as are lots of the car parts.

HOWEVER its the SPECS they are made to that make the difference.

We had a fleet of Mercedes buses all supposedly identical BUT some took one type of oil and coolant and others took different stuff.

Why Cos Mecedes said so.

Guess Toyota are the same

I believe Graham H had a similar experience to Snoopyone.

Adam J-I dont say it out iof loyalty to Toyota, its just a fact. I swap engine oils around as to whats on special and do oil sampling every so often and at 230K the oil is still honey coloured after 6ooo ks.

Whats the advantage of using the Titan product? Its probably the same price anyway?

Hi Fish / Snoop,
Firstly I would stick to the one oil. As different manufactures have different additive packages (even though they meet the same spec) this causes chemical leaching as they strip away the former oils "protective" coatings
Secondly I would steer clear of the cheaper oils, as they are cheaper for a reason. (poorer grade base oils, cheaper additive pack) They may meet the spec but only just. I like to look at it this way. "Good, better and Best"
When it comes to OEM'. It is sometimes more beneficial to look at the oil companies from that region. A good example is Fuchs Lubricants. A German oil company, which the majority of there oils are designed for OEM's such as Mercedes. VW, Porches, MAN, and many other European OEM's. The same as Pennzoil has many approvals for American made vehicles.
I have been a Diesel fitter for the past 17yrs, and for the last 5yrs I have been in asset management. The information I have learnt about quality of oils & grease v's component life has been very surprising and beneficial. Its amazing how true that old add was.. "Oils aint Oils"

I ran Penrite HPR15 diesel in it for nearly 100,000k and never had to top it up.

Hope that meets your approval LOL

Ha.. Good oil.. And very funny..

you have a point adam however if the "protective coatings" (often AKA marketing) are in one reputable oil and not in the other, yet "required" wouldnt you expect to see multiple failures in that particular asset when using the oil lacking that particular additive?

Or one oil which over time provides significant and noticably better lifespans of engines?
This would be noticable especially in a situation of a large fleet of vehicles, machinery or vessels?
Personally as a marine engineer, I havent seen this from any of the major brands used in the past through our fleet of MTU, cats, wartsilas and cummins.

In some cases such as the old 2.8l hilux I believe your far better off using cheaper oil and change more frequently than trying to use synthetics etc and get a longer interval. Of course this isnt turbo'ed and hence oil is under lesser heat stress.

I would also expect that if the "protective coatings" are stripped away to any detriment, wouldnt they show up in an oil sample?

Without doubt Fuchs is a good brand though, and while I was fishing, cheaper than most. We used the same 15/40 in engines, gearb's, hydraulics and steering on suppliers recommendation. 100%.

Hey fish,
all additive packages cause types of chemical leaching, all packages differ. Some are allot better than others. As an engineer you would note chemical leaching everytime you change an oil cooler on a marine engine. (If you do condition monitoring. I am guessing you do) I have heaps of info if you want it.. Or would love to discuss. Very passionate re maintenance. Let me know how to contact you out of here and I am more than happy to chat.

to be honest adam, when stripping an engine etc I cant recall ever seeing any evidence of oil "protective coatings" especially not in a cooler covered with thick black crap-let alone it leaching away. What would I be looking for?
Im assuming you are talking about the oil and not deterioration on the cooler itself?

First of all sorry Gertie.. I seem to have driven your question way of course.
Fish, chemical leaching is very minimal, leads some people astray when relying on SOS results and not knowing how to read them. It is so microscopic that even if you cut a cooler core open, then cut the tubes in half you wouldnt see it with the naked eye.. Unlike the effects of glycol on white metals
all i was getting at is that oils are very different, even if they meet the same spec. For example CAT C32 and C27 Acert engines have the ability to have 500hrs oil drains in T series Dozers. When we trialed this, we used 3 different oils in the same Dozers over 4500hrs. The 3 oils had the same spec, the same approvals. But all had very different results. One couldn't even make 220hrs. Thats the point I was trying to make. Anyways my generic email address is adamljarvis@yahoo.com.au as I said, if you want to know anything that I may be able to assist with email me. and I am more than happy to discuss. It would take up way to much space on here. Enjoyed that chat though.

no worries adam-very interesting but 2 quick questions-if it couldnt be picked up on an oil sample, and is so microscopic, how did you know it couldnt make 220hrs, ?
second-where in an engine is glycol in contact with white metal?

Its so much easier to explain this verbally.. Chemical leaching will be flagged in an oil sample as either high copper (normally) and sometimes high iron. BUT you can tell that it is chemical leaching when the PQ index stays the same as previous "A samples eg: <50ppm.
Glycol gets in the engines through leaking liners whether it be from age, or an engine being stationary for long periords of time. With earth moving equipment this me be a little more common as the radiators are mounted higher and have bigger volumes of coolant as there is no sea water to cool them..
Re the 220hrs. The Oil was commended on SOS results (C Samlple). Elevated soot levels (Max) An increase in Viscoity, increase in lead & Iron, and the TBN was dropping past and exceptable limit. Basically the engine oil was buggered and couldnt go any further.