Alternators
Submitted: Wednesday, Jul 20, 2011 at 10:20
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Member - Reetta & Joe (NSW)
Double trouble with alternators. Less than 2 years ago our 100 series LC alternator gave up the ghost. After 11 years and almost 1/4 million klms all over the country was not bad for the original factory fitted unit we thought. River crossings and endless dust almost a daily affair.
Then we had a heavy duty 110amp Nippon Denso replacement fitted. This lasted 23 months and only 27000 klms! Dash lights all lit up then the battery ran flat. One would have thought this should be covered under warranty, but no, only 12 months warranty!!! Auto electrician said the main rotor had gone as faulty, very unusual! Unreal, 27000 klms only out of a new alternator!! So we coughed up another $600+ less than 2 years again.
Has anyone else had such a lousy run with a similar alternator?
We have a dual battery with an ARB fitted "Super Power 1314" isolator ( they are being recalled - later models than ours apparently)
Could battery isolators burnout alternators?
Any
feedback appreciated.
Reply By: Member - Andrew L (QLD) - Wednesday, Jul 20, 2011 at 11:21
Wednesday, Jul 20, 2011 at 11:21
Your lucky, I am on my 4th..or is it 5th Alternator on my 105 series Cruiser, in 150,000km.
They just don't like being mounted low, and in the dust, moisture, water and crud.
Have a look at their position, they even cop a wet hiding from the fan drawing water thru the radiator from rain and road mist
AnswerID:
460396
Reply By: Battery Value Pty Ltd - Wednesday, Jul 20, 2011 at 12:04
Wednesday, Jul 20, 2011 at 12:04
Hello,
actually it's not the isolation switch itself, but the high charging current through the auxiliary batteries which can wear out the alternator quickly.
Batteries can get extremely hungry for current once discharged below 70 to 50% SOC.
Starter batteries never get discharged this low, so the alternator isn't really designed to cough up that much current again and again under adverse conditions. So depending on the amount of current limiting protection circuitry built into their regulators (which needs to take into account the temperature of the diode plate), plus overall build quality (size and material of sliprings, carbon brushes etc), your mileage may vary.
cheers, Peter
AnswerID:
460398
Follow Up By: member - mazcan - Wednesday, Jul 20, 2011 at 12:13
Wednesday, Jul 20, 2011 at 12:13
hi peter
reeta and joe stated that the alternator they replaced the oem with was a heavy duty 110amp alternator and it failed after only 27000km's
so are you saying that the so called h/duty alts arent worth a pinch???
just curious
cheers barry
FollowupID:
734077
Follow Up By: Battery Value Pty Ltd - Wednesday, Jul 20, 2011 at 13:19
Wednesday, Jul 20, 2011 at 13:19
Hi Barry,
in the aftermarket environment the term h/duty frequently is nothing more than a marketing gimmick.
It's certainly not he language of the engineers who design these things.
So unless the so called h/d unit has a larger diode plate, more efficient cooling fan, bigger sliprings and brushes, and integral temperature sensing to protect itself, it shouldn't be called h/d.
Because it can be extremely hard to find out whether or not a replacement scores high in all these, you should rely on external current limitation if you want to ensure a longer life of the unit.
Measuring the actual current coming out of the alternator, and then the current through your aux battery is a good starting point if you want to get a handle on these things.
Then, you could look into an externally mounted regulator which offers ways to manually control the output voltage/current.
So, instead of just forking out big for a h/d unit, it's definitely more sensible to invest in a unit offering external regulation.
cheers, Peter
FollowupID:
734089
Follow Up By: member - mazcan - Thursday, Jul 21, 2011 at 15:30
Thursday, Jul 21, 2011 at 15:30
hi peter
your full explanation is appreciated and im much wiser now and i sure a lot of others are too
i had a feeling h/d after market was/is a take in lots of instances
thanks for taking the time
cheers barry
FollowupID:
734174
Reply By: olcoolone - Wednesday, Jul 20, 2011 at 16:56
Wednesday, Jul 20, 2011 at 16:56
We can source one alternator for $200 and another looking the same for $450, both are meant to be identical, the one for $200 the wholesaler said was the same if not better then the oppositions $450 one but they can do them cheaper because blah blah blah.
The $200 one comes with a 12 month warranty and the $450 comes with a 3 year warranty.
Have a guess what one uses cheaper parts?
There are so many manufactures and re manufactures of alternators overseas it's hard to tell what's good and what's bad unless your in the industry.
When they rate amps there can be so much of a variance between manufactures one rated at 110 amps may only do 80 amps and another rated at 80 amps may do 100 amps output.
Some auto elecs will sell you the cheapest alternator they can find thinking if they don't they will loose the sale and this is true as most customers would not care or understand the differences in why one is more expensive then the other...... hell it's only an alternator.
We hear it day in and day out....
Customer: How much for a XXXXXX?
Us: We can do that for $795 fitted.
Customer: Na your to expensive Joe Shonks down the road said he will do it for $495 fitted.
Us: Do you know what brand he is using?
Customer: Wouldn't have a clue but anyway I don't want to spend that much...yeah thanks.
A customer lost until the cheap XXXXXX fails, the guy he bought it from is no longer around or he's washed his hands of it and he comes to us for advice.
Thank god most
places put sold and service stickers on stuff they sell so we know where it can from.
AnswerID:
460423