Jayco Eagle Outback Upgrade

Submitted: Sunday, Aug 28, 2011 at 14:42
ThreadID: 88734 Views:10715 Replies:4 FollowUps:4
This Thread has been Archived
Hi, I have just purchased a Jayco Eagle Outback 2011. The purchase was mainly based on our budget and a realistic expectation of the offroad abilities of the camper in its stock factory form. My plan to to improve the stock standard ability of the camper by doing strengthening work and underbody protection, Dust proofing, and interior strengthening of cupboards ect, and finally better power options for being self sustaining. My endstate is a camper that will handle the majority of offroad work (not all), no dust to sweep out when we get there, and to sustain ourselves for up to 10 days. I believe that this can be achieved be doing most of the work myself and thus keeping the costs down. Most of the information for my upgrades have come from forums like this one and are an invaluable source of information if you look past the comments by the people who are obviously so one eyed in their particular brand of camper that they think nothing else should be used. I intend to prove that by taking other peoples experience and advice and modifying the camper yourself you can go along way to making a basic Jayco outback into a good quality camper. MY upgrade will be:
Welding the Chassis and subfloor frame so it is completely welded.
Strengthening the suspension brackets.
Completely resealing all underfloor/wall joins with sika flek and also inside joins.
Screw 10mm rubber matting to the sub floor frame to protect all fittings and the floor itself.
Canvas covers velcro to the inside of all vents.
Pulling apart what I can of the inside furniture and liquid nailing and rescrew together. Strengthen where necessary
Straps for fastening the bed base so they cannot move while travelling.
Extra latches for all cupboard doors.
A larger seal for the roof so when closed a better seal is achieved.
Duel batterys with a 1500W inverter, a ctek battery charger, and run the fridge on 240 from the inverter while travelling.
also a 120 W Solar panel and regulator to charge the batterys (generator for back up)

If anyone can give me some imput and /or advice it would be much appreciated.
I will post updates as I finish each stage of this upgrade if it is of intreast to anyone. In the end I will know my van inside and out and know what it can and cannot do.
Cheers Morry
Back Expand Un-Read 0 Moderator

Reply By: glenok - Sunday, Aug 28, 2011 at 16:25

Sunday, Aug 28, 2011 at 16:25
Hi Morry, Im no expert but should you be running 240v whilst travelling? Someone here should know the answer to this one. Good luck
AnswerID: 463720

Follow Up By: Morry - Sunday, Aug 28, 2011 at 17:02

Sunday, Aug 28, 2011 at 17:02
Hi Glenok, By running the 4 way fridge on 240v through an inverter the fridge will run much better and have a thermostat control. The heat off the inverter is not much and only the fridge is powered by it. Would like any else to let me know if this is not achivable.
Thanks for your reply
FollowupID: 737574

Follow Up By: glenok - Sunday, Aug 28, 2011 at 23:15

Sunday, Aug 28, 2011 at 23:15
I was thinking that running 240v while travelling is a bad idea incase of an accident. Having live 240v running through a vehicle may not be someones idea of a good thing come rescue time.
FollowupID: 737624

Reply By: Marksom - Sunday, Aug 28, 2011 at 18:21

Sunday, Aug 28, 2011 at 18:21
HI Morry, Mark from Ballina, got Jayco Dove OB 2005, you doing heaps to it, extra ideas from me....get tregg hitch & keep well greased ,I carry a small grease gun, Usually leak through the front seal, I'm making a cover for the front seal & putting the flys into pvc tubes 1 front 1 back, a circulation fan for the fridge is good idea, I put a 240v but most use computer 12v, shud rubber tube gas lines & fittings for vibrations, I put magnet catches on cupboard doors, made wrap a round carry strap for fold up door bit & clips into catches, I made genny cradle to fit back bar, modified bike rack to bolt to back bar, put 2x1 pine under seat joins, made screw access for roof cable grease & adjustment, got rid of dual water taps, put in 2 simple taps, waterproofed canvas, modified sidewinder jack for van levelling....ahhh mans quest to build a better mouse trap...goes on forever...get back if you need any info.
AnswerID: 463729

Follow Up By: Morry - Sunday, Aug 28, 2011 at 20:06

Sunday, Aug 28, 2011 at 20:06
Hi Marksom, Thanks for your info. I will add some of them to my upgrade. When it comes to the shockies have you had any problems with them on rough tracks. Some ppl have posted that they have broken the shockie support. If you have is it the top or bottom support as I intend to weld a gusset on then to add strength.

Cheers Morry
FollowupID: 737599

Follow Up By: Marksom - Sunday, Aug 28, 2011 at 21:48

Sunday, Aug 28, 2011 at 21:48
Hi Morry, to be honest have not checked them that closely, hav not travelled a huge lot of rough road...Mereenie Loop road was worst, but did drop tyre pressures, have got guards to stop stick & rock damage to shocks....I reckon the Jayco are not bullet proof, like most campers, so tend to be gentle, slow down, run lower tyre psi, chase the smoother road where possible. Some builders dont run shocks...something else to get bent & cause kaos..argument goes "rough enough to bust shocks, then rough enough to bust springs",jeez where do you stop?
FollowupID: 737614

Reply By: BrownyGU - Sunday, Aug 28, 2011 at 21:47

Sunday, Aug 28, 2011 at 21:47
Then once your done, take it back in and get them to have a look at your upgrades, and see if you can get them to implement a few of them!

AnswerID: 463754

Reply By: pmack - Monday, Aug 29, 2011 at 15:19

Monday, Aug 29, 2011 at 15:19
Just remember you only have 350KG to play with and that includes your water, unless you got the GVM upgrade with the 2000kg axle.
Make sure that your door vent is actually sealed.They are in two pieces and can allow water in between.
Check out the Myswag forum.
AnswerID: 463798

Sponsored Links

Popular Products (9)