121 volt Cordless Drill

Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2011 at 19:52
ThreadID: 89367 Views:3580 Replies:9 FollowUps:8
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Don’t throw away your 12 volt drill after the battery dies
Remove battery and connect the two terminals in the handle with about 3metres electrical wire. Add a plug that fits your cigarette lighter outlet on the other end and as long as the vehicle battery is charged you can operate the drill.
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Reply By: ben_gv3 - Monday, Oct 03, 2011 at 19:56

Monday, Oct 03, 2011 at 19:56
I want a 121 volt drill instead. Now that would get the nuts off quick smart.

Oh yes, and I have done the conversion to my old 12V drill and it works.
AnswerID: 466709

Follow Up By: Member - Jack - Monday, Oct 03, 2011 at 20:27

Monday, Oct 03, 2011 at 20:27
121 volt drill will do more than get your nuts off quick I think. Yikes!!
Jack
The hurrieder I go, the behinder I get. (Lewis Carroll-Alice In Wonderland)

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Reply By: kidsandall - Monday, Oct 03, 2011 at 20:08

Monday, Oct 03, 2011 at 20:08
Maybe we should have a bush mechanics section on here with ideas like this for the traveller. There are heaps of ideas out there like this for the traveller to benefit from. we did this with our drill so I didn't need a charger on the road. Works a treat. But as Ben_gv3 said "121 volt would be better lol.

Josh
AnswerID: 466710

Reply By: Roughasguts - Monday, Oct 03, 2011 at 20:19

Monday, Oct 03, 2011 at 20:19
Good idea then you can put your old broken reamer (cause the handle broke)from your tyre repair kit in the drill.

And with that reamer in the drill it's a whole lot easier to ream out the tyre and put a plug in for repairs on the road.

Cheers.
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Follow Up By: Mick O - Tuesday, Oct 04, 2011 at 10:31

Tuesday, Oct 04, 2011 at 10:31
I’d have to caution against that RG. Nice thought but the purpose of the “reamer” is actually only to part the belts, cords and wire on the tread section to facilitate entry of the plug. It also takes a bit of skill and feel to find and follow the path of the offending item that requires hands on. If you use a rotary, drilling action you risk creating your own path into the tyre missing the puncture all together and or even worse, getting the reamer wound up with internal wiring and cordage doing more damage to the tyre.

I hate those plastic handled reamers for the very issue that they break easily. There has been more than one post on this site over the injuries sustained in sliding the handle end of a reamer back into a wrist or arm when the plastic gives way. Get a solid handled unit like the ARB kit (I’m normally not a wrap for ARB but in the case of their tyre repair kit, they’ve hit the mark really well).


Cheers Mick
''We knew from the experience of well-known travelers that the
trip would doubtless be attended with much hardship.''
Richard Maurice - 1903

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Follow Up By: Member Brian (Gold Coast) - Wednesday, Oct 05, 2011 at 09:34

Wednesday, Oct 05, 2011 at 09:34
Good advice there Mick.... and answered my question about repair kits!! Many thanks.

Cheers

Brian

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Follow Up By: Roughasguts - Wednesday, Oct 05, 2011 at 10:14

Wednesday, Oct 05, 2011 at 10:14
Thanks Mick I had not thought of the extra damage to the belt it would cause, and your right sometimes the reamer want's to go in side ways obviously to follow the penetration. Not much point making another path for the plug.

Cheers.
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Reply By: ss--ss - Monday, Oct 03, 2011 at 20:57

Monday, Oct 03, 2011 at 20:57
G'day, yeah I bought a makita 12v on eBay which had a dead battery.. I took out the battery cells from the battery pack & put a lead with an Anderson plug.. I use it all the time ...
AnswerID: 466719

Reply By: Fred G NSW - Monday, Oct 03, 2011 at 21:44

Monday, Oct 03, 2011 at 21:44
I got 2 old makita's I fitted long 12v cords and alligator clips to clip straight to car/caravan battery. Have proven to be one of the best tools in the ute/van over the years.
AnswerID: 466721

Follow Up By: Ray - Tuesday, Oct 04, 2011 at 09:58

Tuesday, Oct 04, 2011 at 09:58
Ditto
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Reply By: Peter_n_Margaret - Monday, Oct 03, 2011 at 22:22

Monday, Oct 03, 2011 at 22:22
I don't carry a battery drill anymore.
240V drills are cheaper, better and more powerful AND half the weight.
Same goes for the saw. Carry a 240V sabre saw and a selection of metal and wood blades now.
Have an inverter, may as well use it.

Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 Motorhome
AnswerID: 466730

Follow Up By: Echucan Bob - Tuesday, Oct 04, 2011 at 07:33

Tuesday, Oct 04, 2011 at 07:33
Peter,
many power tools have power ratings of 1000 watts or more. You would need the mother of all inverters to run these. Considering cost and weight, the 12V tools without battery are very attractive for basic repair kit function.
Bob
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Follow Up By: Robin Miller - Tuesday, Oct 04, 2011 at 08:31

Tuesday, Oct 04, 2011 at 08:31
Hi Guys

Actually Bob I have now a collection of tools that all use 500w or less and run from a cute little 600w inverter, very effective.

What made the difference for me was having an angle grinder - a very powerful and useful tool in the bush since they now have those 1mm thick cutting blades.

However I also have been doing the 12v thing for a long time, and there are cases when you need one and haven't a car nearby.

But amazingly supercheap are currently selling a complete 12v drill for $20, and it even works.
To make it cheap it only has one speed but unlike most other 1 speed drills this one doesn't rev high , only to 550rpm so it puts out some useful torque.

Its a crazy world now - you just couldn't buy the batteries for $20 so I went and got a second one just so I could get a second battery pack.





Robin Miller

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Reply By: V8 Troopie - Tuesday, Oct 04, 2011 at 01:07

Tuesday, Oct 04, 2011 at 01:07
It does not have to be a 12V cordless drill, I used that trick on an old 7.2V Hitachi drill and it works just as well with heaps of grunt off a 12V battery. My use for that old drill is as an electric winch handle.
A tip: do not skimp on the wire size, especially if it gets toward the suggested 3m length.
AnswerID: 466741

Reply By: MEMBER - Darian, SA - Tuesday, Oct 04, 2011 at 17:13

Tuesday, Oct 04, 2011 at 17:13
I'm about to get a new 18V cordless drill kit with lithium batteries (probably DeWalt) - the thing is, the drive unit in my 18V Ryobi Nicad kit is still fine (the batteries are of course useless after 3 years) - is there a cost effective way I can run an 18V drill from the 12v batteries in my holiday rig ? (electons are 'magica',l to my mind :-o).
AnswerID: 466778

Follow Up By: V8 Troopie - Wednesday, Oct 05, 2011 at 00:59

Wednesday, Oct 05, 2011 at 00:59
Yes there is, I use a DC to DC converter to run a 18V drill of a 12V battery.
Got the converter off the internet, its rated at 150W max and to run at that power for long its a good idea to fit larger heat sinks. The thing is an open construction PCB, about 4 x 6 cm, was not expensive either. The output voltage can be adjusted.
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Reply By: Member - Christopher P (NSW) - Thursday, Oct 06, 2011 at 16:02

Thursday, Oct 06, 2011 at 16:02
Hahahaha i have done that and being doing that for years........ and i mean years. when i went to bunnings the guy behind couter asked me "Why 12v?" i told him i could take it out bush and still drill a hole with a custom built extension lead from car battery to drill.
AnswerID: 466917

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