Nissan Patrol fuel Problem
Submitted: Tuesday, Oct 25, 2011 at 23:29
ThreadID:
89746
Views:
20104
Replies:
10
FollowUps:
9
This Thread has been Archived
Member - Andrew C (WA)
Hi All,
Mate just purchased a 2003 Nissan Patrol ST He is having an issue in the morning starting the vehicle, after cranking it, it starts and runs for approx 15 seconds then stalls. once it stalls the only way to get it to restart is to
hand pump the fuel usually takes a good 30 seconds or so of pumping then crank and it will start and run ok .It will then start and run ok for the rest of the day until it is parked up for 12 hours or so then the same issue.
It been to Nissan for a full "service" they couldn't find a fault has been back to them 3 times on a tow truck (at their cost) but still cant find a fault.
the last time it went back to Nissan their solution was to fit non return valves to both fuel lines and yes you guessed it 10 min's down the road and the fuel line over pressurised and ruptured. back to Nissan on a tow truck again, they replaced the fuel line and returned the vehicle next morning same fault.
he took it back to the yard he purchased it from and they said they found a dead cell in the batteries and that they have had this problem before and they have fixed it by replacing the battery. next morning the same issue.
I reckon there is an air leak in the fuel system somewhere but
where to start. just wondering if anybody has come across this before and maybe can give us some idea as to
where to start looking.
Nissan are now just stabbing at the problem .now they are telling him $4500.00 for a Reconditioned injector pump which SHOULD fix the issue!!
Even after hand pumping the manual pump it never get firm I allway thourght that the
hand pump handle became firm once the fuelsystem was primed?
.
Reply By: taffy - Tuesday, Oct 25, 2011 at 23:45
Tuesday, Oct 25, 2011 at 23:45
try glow plugs
AnswerID:
468569
Follow Up By: Member - Andrew C (WA) - Tuesday, Oct 25, 2011 at 23:51
Tuesday, Oct 25, 2011 at 23:51
Nissan claim that they have checked all the electrical including the glow plugs no problem found.
FollowupID:
742859
Follow Up By: Member - Jerry C (WA) - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 00:18
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 00:18
Hi Andrew,
Try changing the fuel filter / filters.
Cheers,
Jerry.
FollowupID:
742862
Follow Up By: Patrol22 - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 18:32
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 18:32
Try changing to a reputable diesel mechanic IMHO - dealers suck when it comes to this sort of work. OK to change the oil and filters or plug the diagnostic equipment in but suck at just about everything else.
FollowupID:
742910
Follow Up By: blown4by - Friday, Oct 28, 2011 at 10:37
Friday, Oct 28, 2011 at 10:37
I agree.....especially when it comes to fixing oil leaks on the ZD30. I have had personal experience of 7 return visits (each) on two Patrols, 1 common rail one not just to have oil leaks fixed and often when the vehicle is returned there is another problem that was not there in the first place e.g. fuel leaks which in one instance had to be returned numerous times to have (eventually) 3 injector lines replaced. Also on both Patrols later found many originally factory fitted plastic cable ties broken or missing and radiator shroud fasteners missing. Vey disappointing. Luckily all repairs were covered under warranty but very inconvenient having to back and
forth and be without a vehicle for weeks on end until they get their manure together. On several occasions the oil or fuel leaks (caused by the Dealer) had leaked again (still leaked) after driving from the Dealer to home (50km) only to be reurned yet again first thing the next day. These guys are supposed to be the
pinnacle of mechanical workmanship and the manufacturers representatives but in my experience I would not give you two bob for the ones I have had the misfortune to have to deal with. They make the anecdotal stories in the trade about vehicles being dropped off for a service being driven in the front door, through the workshop and out the back door and the service handbook being stamped complete (anything actually being done) sem plausable.
FollowupID:
743031
Reply By: Member - Bentaxle - Tuesday, Oct 25, 2011 at 23:59
Tuesday, Oct 25, 2011 at 23:59
As you summised Andrew there is an air leak somewhere, Nissan's solution to an unsolvable problem is faulty injector pump. My guess is the fuel filter mount there's possibly an air leak in the manual pump unit on it. Another option is to give the guys at
United Fuel Injection in Redcliff a call, thats where Nissan send all their in jector pumps to for repair/overhaul.
Mike
| May the fleas of a thousand afghan camels infect the crutch of your enemy and may their arms be too short to scratch.
Lifetime Member
My Profile Send Message |
AnswerID:
468571
Reply By: kwk56pt - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 00:37
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 00:37
I had similar problems on a Rodeo. Tried the non return valve on the fuel line and kept changing the fuel filter, checked the fuel tank breather and put worm drive clips on the hoses. Apparently it is possible for a fuel pump to suck air but not leak fuel. they blame the low sulphur content of the fuel which causes low fuel lubricity and hence dries the seals out. You could while the vehicle is parked bypass the filter and use a outboard squeeze bulb to pressurise the system and leave it overnight to see if the
hand pump is the issue.
Mine only did this on cold mornings. I am not a mechanic nor do I understand the nissan 3 litre fuel system but I would try and bypass everything to the pump, maybe use a fuel can and hose. You don't need to drive it only prime the pump and leave overnight to eliminate all except the pump.
AnswerID:
468572
Follow Up By: Rockape - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 08:52
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 08:52
kwk56pt makes all the sense in the world with his post.
Hope you find it
RA.
FollowupID:
742875
Reply By: Neil & Pauline - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 01:02
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 01:02
something similar I had with a Triton turned out to be a short piece of rubber hose in the line had separated internally and caused i intermittent faults. I am not a mechanic but if it starts then stops it getting air before the injector pump. The simple answer is air in the system but where from is the challenge.
neil
AnswerID:
468573
Reply By: Member - Alastair D (NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 09:19
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 09:19
Andrew,
Years ago I had a similar problem where I was sure I had an air leak but could not find it. In the end I got some clear plastic tubing and one at a time I replaced the hoses in the system starting nearest the pump and worked back. Note that the clear tube must not be left in place as it is not fuel resistant, just allows you to see the bubbles or if fuel is flowing.
My problem turned out to be a faulty seal on the lip of the fuel filter.
The idea of modifying the system by putting in non return valves etc shows that the Nissan people were not being thorough and logical. They were not trying to find the fault, just trying to find a fix so you would go away. Very dissapointing.
The fact that the vehicle runs once it has been running for a while suggests to me like you, that it is an air leak or a priming problem due to wear. Either way a step by step approach should find the problem. The jumping to a solution without proving the fault rarely provides a lasting solution.
On my Toyota 1HD-FTE the
hand pump goes rock hard once the system is primed.
Hope your friend finds the fault. Could to have someone like you helping as these sorts of faults can be very frustrating.
cheers
AnswerID:
468580
Reply By: Honky - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 09:53
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 09:53
This is text book case in regards to
grey imports.
It is worn fuel pump seals.
Due to the cost of fixing I would check all the hoses for tightness.
Honky
AnswerID:
468581
Follow Up By: Bigfish - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 16:04
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 16:04
How do you know its a
grey import?
FollowupID:
742898
Follow Up By: Patrol22 - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 18:34
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 18:34
It will be a model that is not sold in this country Bigfish...eg the Toyota Surf, the Mitsubshi Delica, the Toyota Soarer, the Nissan Turano etc etc
FollowupID:
742911
Follow Up By: Member - Andrew C (WA) - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 19:05
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 19:05
No Its not a
Grey Import its the model sold here in Australia
.
FollowupID:
742914
Follow Up By: The Explorer - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 20:55
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 20:55
Hi
I think Honky was just suggesting that it is a problem not uncommon in
grey imports ...not that the car in question was a
grey import.
Cheers
Greg
| I sent one final shout after him to stick to the track, to which he replied “All right,” That was the last ever seen of Gibson - E Giles 23 April 1874 Lifetime Member
My Profile My Blog Send Message
Moderator |
FollowupID:
742923
Reply By: CraigB - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 15:19
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 15:19
If you haven't already tried I would check all fuel hose ends where they are connected. I have seen this problem a few times. Just an ever so small small split in the hose at the end is all it takes, may need to just snip off the end of the hose and re-insert the end of it into its rightful place with a new clamp (if required). As mentioned above the split could be so small fuel will not leak but it will suck air ever so slowly when the system depressurises over night or after a lengthy stop.
AnswerID:
468594
Reply By: Outbacktourer - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 20:13
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 20:13
I had a lift pump replaced under warranty on an 02 model because it was sucking air. Dealer said it was not common but not unknown, they had one in stock for that reason.
OBT
AnswerID:
468606
Reply By: louie the fly - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 20:39
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 20:39
I had that same problem on a 2.8D toyota in a 4runner. Would run for a mo then die. Pump primer and it would run, then die. You say "Even after hand pumping the manual pump it never get firm I allway thourght that the
hand pump handle became firm once the fuelsystem was primed?" Exactly the problem I had.
Turned out the fuel overflow bleed pipe (I think that's what it was called) from the injectors to the tank return line was cracked at the join of pipe to banjo fitting. $80 later, new pipe & washers, and it was like new. Still wouldn't pull the skin off a custard, but it ran.
Then. 2 weekends ago, after picking up the new 2nd hand 2.8TD Triton on Thursday night, drove down the driveway and it just died. Would eventually start but wouldn't run. After a thorough look under the bonnet it turned out the
water sensor in the bottom of the fuel filter was loose.
In both cases it was air was getting in the fuel system. Also in both cases, there was no evidence of fuel leakage. I assume the Nissan tech's have checked the obvious things.
Louie
AnswerID:
468610
Reply By: blown4by - Friday, Oct 28, 2011 at 10:55
Friday, Oct 28, 2011 at 10:55
The hand priming pump on my ZD30 goes rock hard when primed after I replace my oil filter. Personally I hate those useless factory fitted hose clamps that look like they are made out of fencing wire. They usually are not tight after the clamp bolt has run out of thread. Dice them all, including on the cooling system, and buy Utilux stainless steel worm drive hose clamps (not Tridon) which are far superior. They clamp up tight over a wider area without cutting the hose (in two
places) and have rolled edges on the clamping surface and being stainless with a good worm drive do not seize up over time and are infinitely adjustable unlike the Tridon clamps whose cheap worm drive system has slots cut right through the clamping band and will lock up or jump a groove when you are trying to fully tighten the clamp. At least you will be confident you are not sucking air on the inlet lines. Also check the
water sensor fitting on the fuel filter. The plastic threads are very fine and prone to being easily stripped hence cannot be tightened adequately against the sealing 'O' ring. Just replacing the fuel pump is clutching at straws. Why doesn't the dealer have it removed and tested first? Agree with the comments about
United Fuel, they are very good. Also I would give the Dealer a miss and go to Robsons 4WD or 4WD TLC or any other 4WD specialist with a good reputation. As far as the dead battery cell goes, what relationship that would have to losing the fuel prime is beyond the comprehension of my 40+ years as a qualified mechanic.
AnswerID:
468721