Is it possible to regulate a 12 volt battery output in a short circuit type situ
Submitted: Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 20:20
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Member - G N (VIC)
Hi All
bit off topic in a way.
I am trying to use a 12 volt battery to heat a piece of .9mm mig wire to cut dense styrene foam but direct connection = too hot , foam catches alight.
Is there some way of reducing the output to say around 8 -10 amps in which is basicaly a short ciruit???
Regards
GN
Reply By: Roughasguts - Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 20:33
Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 20:33
You need a rheostat to control the voltage by increasing the Ohm's.
Maybe some resistors might do the job or even a light globe in line to suck some of the power out the battery and preventing a dead short which ain;t good for the battery.
Cheers,
AnswerID:
472753
Follow Up By: Member - G N (VIC) - Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 20:40
Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 20:40
Hi Roughasguts
What rating / size rheostat would i need do you think? i am not up this.
i tried the light idea with 100watt 12v globe but didnt get enough power through to heat the wire enough - was hot enough to just start to melt the styro though.
i wondered if i hooked up 2 or 3 globes in series might work?
i made one when i was a boy with a bit of high resistance wire i got from dick smith but cant find such i thing now.
Reagards
GN
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: fisho64 - Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 21:38
Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 21:38
fuse wire
FollowupID:
747607
Follow Up By: Nomadic Navara - Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 21:53
Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 21:53
GN if the wire is not hot enough to do the work you would put the extra globes in parallel. Putting them in series reduces the current through your wire.
FollowupID:
747610
Reply By: Battery Value Pty Ltd - Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 20:48
Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 20:48
Hi GN,
I recommend some halogen bulbs wired in parallel to control the current.
Filament bulbs are almost ideal current sources, meaning the current stays pretty constant with varying voltage across your mig wire.
Problem is that the mig wire resistance has positive temperature coefficient which means that it tends to get hotter and hotter because the voltage across it increases while the current through it stays constant.
But you may actually get used to this by increasing the cutting speed to cool the wire more.
I think you can get 100W, 50W and 20W units.
If you make them all switched you can make the current adjustable.
cheers, Peter
AnswerID:
472756
Follow Up By: Battery Value Pty Ltd - Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 21:07
Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 21:07
forgot to mention the wire-in-the-
water-bucket-resistor:
get several metres of thin galvanised wire (0.6~0.8mm diameter) and wind it around an empty glass bottle. Slap some silicone on the bottle before you wind the wire around it and let it cure overnight.
If you've got a multimeter you can measure the resistance of the wire first. You want 1.5 Ohms (put extra wire on the bottle which you can later take off for more current).
Fill up a 10l bucket with cold
water, in goes the resistor with the wire terminals (use 2.5mm squ building wire for connections) and you're cutting styrofoam like a pro.
cheers, Peter
FollowupID:
747603
Follow Up By: Member - G N (VIC) - Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 21:16
Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 21:16
Thanks Peter
will give it a go.
Regards
GN
FollowupID:
747604
Reply By: Al-one - Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 20:55
Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 20:55
Hello GN,
The 8 - 10 amps you indicate is a long way from a short circuit. A good battery will supply hundreds of amps to start your vehicle. In your need a bit of resistance in the circuit to reduce the current to the 10 amps you say you require. Normally in hot wire foam cutters this is done by using nichrome wire which has the resistance built in and also having an adjustable voltage regulator to fine tune the heating. To get your 10 amps you need 1.2 ohms of resistance. A very rude and crude way to get the required resistance would be to connect the mig wire to the battery via a long length of fencing wire. You need to experiment with the length. Use a battery clip to connect and adjust the length. I stress this is a rude and crude method just to do a quick bit of cutting and be careful that you don't short the battery. Don't breath the fumes produced by the cutter as they are toxic.
Cheers,
Al-one
AnswerID:
472757
Follow Up By: Member - G N (VIC) - Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 21:17
Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 21:17
Hi Al-one
thanks for info, will try the gal / fence wire .
thanks for the heads up on the toxic, i kind of knew but will take more precautions now.
Regards
GN
FollowupID:
747605
Reply By: gke - Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 21:06
Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 21:06
Hi,
You could also use some heating element from a toaster or similar and adjust the length with the help of an alligator clip till you get a suitable current.
Cheers, Graham.
AnswerID:
472758
Follow Up By: Member - G N (VIC) - Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 21:18
Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 21:18
Hi Graham
another interesting idea, will try fence wire 1st as i have lots, if not will give toaster idea a
test.
Thanks
GN
FollowupID:
747606
Reply By: Lex M - Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 21:55
Saturday, Dec 17, 2011 at 21:55
I doubt that the mig wire will have enough resistance to generate the heat required to melt styrofoam in a controlled fashion.
need resistance wire. Something like this
http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WW4040&keywords=resistance+wire&form=KEYWORD
About 2 amps through this cuts styrofoam nicely.
AnswerID:
472762
Follow Up By: Member - G N (VIC) - Sunday, Dec 18, 2011 at 10:31
Sunday, Dec 18, 2011 at 10:31
Hi Lex
this is what i had as a boy but wasnt able to find.
thanks for that.
i will still play with the mig wire for fun, it almost gets hot enough with a 6 amp battery charger on it.
Regards
GN
FollowupID:
747626
Reply By: guy007 - Sunday, Dec 18, 2011 at 16:40
Sunday, Dec 18, 2011 at 16:40
Hi GN,
I use a hot wire cutter to cut foam wing cores for model aircraft. I use my old 48 voltTransarc welder as a heat source and I use thin ni chrome wire in the cutting bow.
To control the temp I use a very simple resistor.
You need a small panel of wood say 250mm x 100mm although this is not critical.
Drive rows of nails into the wood at 25 mm intervals and wind your thin fencing wire around each nail in turn and along to the next. The wire from the cutting bow needs to be ordinary 2 core flex to which you have fitted two small alligator clips. Put one end on the first nail and the second on the last. It probably will be too cold to cut.
Move the clip back along from nail to nail until the heat cuts clean without dragging or burning too wide a channel.
Used this method for 30 years.
merry xmas
Guy
AnswerID:
472809