Problem with Spotlights

Get someone who knows what they are doing to fix it...... not having a test light means you have very little 12 volt knowledge.

Dude! inside the box of your original post is another box situated towards the top right hand corner of same.

(1) Cliick on this and once it opens, scroll down to a wiring diagram for Driving lights.

(2) Check your setup against this and ensure it is exactly the same.

(3) If It is and seeing as how one of the Driving Lights illuminates, then there is only one area your fault can be, and that is between the 87pin on on the relay and the earth point on the non illuminating Driving Light.

DD

Firstly, if you plan to do any of your own autoelectrical repairs, you need to own a multimeter.
You can buy a chaep meter these days for under $20 and it will be better than what I paid a couple of hundred$$$ for 20 years ago.

now to driving lights.

Almost all jap cars are both positive and negative switched..and that causes some traps.....forget the diagrames that most " how to wire driving lights" articles supply.

Think on this and draw it if you have to.

toyotas and other jap cars start with a switch the activates a headlight relay.

From the positive supply, thru the relay contacts to the common terminal of the lamp.
High/low beam is switched by earthing which ever filament is appropraite via the switch in the head light stalk.

now ther are a couple of ways to wire driving lights to this......but if they are wired the way people think the headl ighst are wired, when a headlight lamp bolws the driving lights wont work.

so check ya headlight lamps.

OH BTW, do not fit 100 watt high beam lamps to unmodified japanese vehicles, the dipper switch in the headlight stalk wont cop it for long.
AND some of those switches are hundreds of $$$.

cheers

Swap the globes over. That would at least tell you if the clobe has blown

Cheers
Bucky

Trendsetters

There are a few things in good old Phil's original post that may have escaped you.

(1) He hasn't identified his vehicle - most probably driving the family '1968 Kingswood'

(2) As far as I am aware there are no vehicles in Australia that have come out of the OEM factory (where ever) with Hella Halogen Spotties factory fitted. If I am wrong on this point please point me in the right direction.

(3) Taking (2) above as correct (at this point) it therefore follows that Phil's Hella Halogen Spotties are an aftermarket setup.

(4) Phil has fully and frankly admitted to making an attempt to rectify the situation by replacing the relay and on doing so he now has one Driving Light working as it should in a manner of speaking. This indicates to me (at least) that he has managed to purchase the correct replacement Relay re open/closed circuits etc.

After considering the above and not having the opportunity to examine the vehicle in question with a test lamp and/or multimeter, the most logical conclusion to me is that there a fault somewhere in the circuit of the second Driving Light between the relay 87pin and the earth of the subject Driving Light.

How one would go about fault finding in this instance, is up to one's personal preferences, experience and available equipment. However, I do believe that in this situation if I couldn't identify within 5 minutes whether the fault was in either (a) the pwr source/cable from the relay 87pin, (b) the globe or (c) the earth at the Driving Light, I should never work on vehicle electrics ever again.

DD

Phil

I also agree with others above.

Don't worry about not having the skills. You do not have to know how to fix them to drive a 4wd.

Seriously! Take it to an auto electrician shop and get them to fix it. It may also be wired illegally seeing that the driving "lights come on with high beam regardless". They can then rewire the lights properly and then show you how to look after them if something breaks or needs replacing. Make sure they show you where the fuse and relay are mounted so that you can get to them easily. Put a label on them also.

That broken switch in the dash worries me. Is there a wire hanging loose without a fuse that can start a fire?

Phil

Ok! Phil

You have narrowed situation down substantially with that last post.

I am betting that you have purchased, or been given the wrong relay to replace the original with. I say that for the following reasons:


(a) Even though these type of relays look the same to the untrained/inexperienced eye, they surely aren't. There are single, straight through, 87pin relays, twin 87pin straight through relays & twin 87pin 'switched' relays (only one 87pin active) to mention a few.

(b) I think you have been given a twin 87pin relay that actually switches the active circuit from the 30 pin between the 87 & 87A pins so that only one of the 87pins is live at any given time.

(c) Can you please tell us how many wires/cables run from the new relay 87pins to the Driving Lights and how you have connected them.

The broken switch thingy is the isolator that isolates the Driving Lights from being activated by the Headlights when on High Beam. Now as you are not allowed to have your headlights on high beam in built up areas, there is no pressing need to fix the switch as it has been broken off in the on position fortunately for you. However it does need to be attended to sooner rather than later.

DD