Wednesday, Feb 01, 2012 at 22:44
welcome Carreen,
DC/DC chargers allow a battery connected to them to reach a higher charging end voltage, thus fully charging them in a reasonable amount of time.
Some popular models can reach a charging rate of 20Ah/hr (max charging current of 20A). Some others claim even higher charging rates.
Whether or not they can sustain this current regardless of ambient temperature, is another question, because the voltage conversion process generates heat.
There are internal temperature sensors which signal to the controlling circuitry to reduce the charging current to protect itself from the effects of high operating temperature.
Remember you may need to find a way to put back 80Ah of charge into your batteries on a daily basis (actually a bit more due to battery inefficiency).
So that would mean you'd have to run the motor at least for 4 hours (4hrs x 20A=80Ah) - this is just a rough estimate because there are other factors.
Now compare this with the alternator:
it is capable of delivering charge at the rate of 60Ah/hr (60A current) or even higher.
The only problem with the alternator is that its voltage isn't quite high enough to get the batteries to 100% state of charge within a reasonable amount of time. So the alternator will quickly push the SOC up to a level of around 80% and from there on things will go really slow.
But it doesn't matter if the batteries only get charged to 80% SOC, as long as you top them up once per week, or fortnight by using a proper multistage mains powered charger.
In a nutshell, the alternator gets the batteries to 80% SOC faster than any DC/DC charger, provided the wiring between alternator and batteries is adequate.
And the battery capacity needs to be sufficiently high as
well, in order for them not to be overwhelmed by the high charging current - but your proposed 2x120Ah batteries are good for a charging rate of 60Ah/hr no probs.
One major drawback of DC/DC chargers is that they tend to over-charge the batteries because they generally have difficulties handling the absorption/float switch-over
well enough.
A dedicated multistage mains powered charger is easier to use because you can actually observe what's going on by simply connecting a multimeter across your battery during charging, and intervene if necessary (not easily done with a DC/DC charger while cruising).
The above is even more valid for concurrent loads like fridges which can confuse the charger quite easily.
May I suggest again to do the following:
check the alternator voltage if it's in the range between 13.8~14.0V (multimeter across starting battery, motor on fast idle).
Ensure this voltage is actually kept up by checking again after 15 minutes, don't turn off the motor during this 15 minutes wait.
If ok, get a good sized pair of wires like #6 for the connection between starting battery and house batteries. There should be a 80A rated fuse at both ends of the wire connecting the two batteries' positive terminals.
And buy a good robust battery charger, and a pair of 125Ah quality deep cycle AGM batteries - preferably from one and the same dealer who happens to know his stuff. Stops the blame game in the unlikely case something goes wrong.
regards, Peter
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