Dometic RM2350 Quality issues ??

Why a 3 way? Get a 12v/240v compressor fridge and you will never look back. The 3 way will deplete a battery in nothing flat on 12v and you need to almost perfectly level to operate on gas.
Set up a good 12v system and use 240v at home or 12v via a charger when at home or in a caravan park. Our 45litre Engel will quite often run for months non stop on 12v or we use 240v in parks when we use them.
Do a good search on this forum or others to see how much trouble a lot of users have using a 3way.
That's my opinion for what it's worth Barry. I'm sure you will get plenty more!

I am having a current problem with Dometic where all I want a a couple of small screws to tie down the covers over the jets on my somewhat useless Dometic stove, and after three months and repeated emails I still do not have the screws, despite their repeated assurances.

Under these circumstances; I find it impossible to recommend anything with which Dometic have any association.

I am sure you have better and more customer-friendly options if you just look around. After all if Dometic cannot supply 4 small screws I am sure they would struggle with anytihhng larger.

Not happy Jan ....

Jack

I've got one in my jayco camper trailer... Works well, especially on gas.. 1 get about 20 days on a 9kg gas bottle.. The control cover on mine cracked when kit mucked around with it but a replacement cost less than $20. Gets my vote.

My personal opinion is that the RM2350 and any other fridge with a CEN 'N' - 'SN' or 'ST' climate rating should not be allowed to be imported into the country.
They will not keep food at the Australian Food Storage Standard temperature of below 5c under normal Australian summer temperatures.
The minumum should be CEN 'T' rated.
Ozjohn.

We agree with the post that the less than T rating units should not be fitted to RV's in this country, we tossed ours out after a trip to the top end which resulted in some loss of food. We changed to the Engel supported by two 80 watt solar cells, we have not had any problems even on dull days.
BrianC

It never fails, ask a question about fridges or batteries and out of the woodwork they come.
For what it's worth I have had a Dometic/Chescold RC1180 fridge/freezer for the past 3 years, it replaced my previous Chescold that lasted 20 yeears.
To date have had no problems with it, sure they draw a lot of current on 12 volts,10 amps on max but mine is only on 12 volts when we are driving, when stopped straight onto gas, they dont have to exactly dead level to operate.
We love watching the 12 volt crowd do the solar panel dance when camping in the bush.
I wonder how many of the 3 way knockers have actually used a 3 way fridge, I haven't but my camping parteners have 12 volt fridges. So have observed their operation.
In regards to temp capabilities, just had the thermostat in the household freezer, fail, 3 to 4 business days for replacement, 10 days later, serviceman fitted new thermostat. Where did we put the meat, in the Chescold running on 240 volts with the freezer divider removed. Strangely none of it thawed even through it was in a colourbond shed, live on the Mid north coast.
Thats my 2 cents worth

Hi, Installed one last year to replace an old compressor fridge that came with the van. Had troubles with the door. Had to reverse it & did not reverse the catch. Didn't seem to need it. WRONG. Finally got it right. Fridge ran well (on 240) in the summer heat in Townsville for our enforced 2 months stay. Still do not like the catch. Found you had to give an extra push to make sure it was shut properly & then hard work to open again. Not real great on 12v while moving but great overnight on gas. Level best but not critical.
Have been working out where to put another latch as I think the original will fail in time. Bill

Reason why Thetford have no performance data they don't perform. Dometic RM2350 is bad, Thetford a shocker.

Hi
Just another very happy Dometic user user
Once it was correctly installed
Works well on ALL input including 12v in temps well above 28c[thermostat still controlling
35C no problem's
Some here may have a barrow to push


Peter

This post is even more fun than those on Cooper tires, LPG fuel conversions or Nissan v Toyota! Love em.

Hi Barry
You, yourself may be able to go along way towards that
It includes:
[1]getting as much good insulation as you can on the top & sides
This will reduce heat penetrating into the fridge
[2]Ensure the fridge is installed correctly ACCORDING to DOMETICS instructions
Very few are
[3]It is important to get as much heat as possible removed from the condensor
Correct baffling assisted by fan/s will ensure that
The aim should be to get the cooling air flowing only through the condensor, not bypassing it ,as much as practical
Idealy the air entering the fridge evaporator should be @ ambient temp
If this is achieved, coupled with improved insulation around 38> 40c will not be a problem
You need to look @ your set for baffling & venting,THAT IS WHERE MOST FALL DOWN
Regarding12v operation they are not advised for 12v operation when the engine is not charging the battery
Dometic make that very clear

With most ,the 12v heater is very much the same heating output as the 240v element,IF IT GETS 12v ,the voltage it is designed for.

Sadly ,do to incompetance or cost saving, very very few have heavy enough cables fron the tug battery to the fridge terminals
If the fridge does not get 12v @ its terminals when operating ,it like most electrical devices, cannot be expected to perform to specs

If you have a multi meter ,it is quite simple to verify the voltage @ the fridge.
Anything under 12v is not acceptable
Peter