inverters

Sorry, forgot to mention as others have done.... I wouldn't attempt to run an absorption fridge from your vehicle.
regards

OK Jim!!! That's different!!!

I'd run the compressor fridge on 12V rather than from the inverter. Does the absorption one not have a 12V option? If it does, I'd again go with 12V. If not then an inverter should work ok, if inefficiently. Suggest if you must go to an inverter, check the rating plate on the fridge to determine it's power requirements, than allow at least 25% margin to decide on how big the inverter needs to be. As the inverter will only be used to run a heating element in the absorption fridge, you'll get away with a cheap and nasty one (provided it doesn't have to run the compressor fridge too) - no need for an expensive sine wave type. My guess is that you'll need a 300 watt one. The 12V wiring to the inverter will need to be heavy gauge, at least 8 B&S, (smaller B&S numbers relate to bigger wire) and should be fused close to the battery

Safety - A metal vehicle is an inherently dangerous place to have high voltage, so I'd minimise 240V wiring (maybe mount the inverter in the fridge itself??) and be careful that 240v wiring can't chafe on anything.

Cheers

John

You should have some form of automatic device to disconnect the fridges from the vehicle when the engine is not running to prevent flattening the vehicle battery.

Thanks john for the good info I feel a lot wiser. As I said safety was my main
concern. Don't want to be running around in a 240volt live subaru A
Cheers Jim

Jim,

Rod makes a good point. The cheapest way of providing automatic switching is probably to use a 30A headlight relay wired so the coil is driven by the accessory line from the ignition switch, maybe through a dash mounted switch if you'd like an easy way of manually turning it off. (Eg while starting.). The back of the cigarette lighter socket is usually a good spot to pick up the accessory voltage. The power for the fridge/inverter should be sourced directly from the battery via a 30A fuse then switched by this relay (ie don't try to pull high current from the accessory line).

Good luck with it.

Cheers

John

Hi
Quote John "Safety - A metal vehicle is an inherently dangerous place to have high voltage, so I'd minimise 240V wiring (maybe mount the inverter in the fridge itself??) and be careful that 240v wiring can't chafe on anything. ""'

I am very pleased to see THAT point made

That is the only way I would suggest an inverter be used to power the fridge
Mount the inverter as close as possible to the fridge ,use well protected wiring from the inverter to the fridge .!!
Peter

while /whilst travelling, or while in transit?

Aaaah the English language!!!!

True, when stationary we aren't travelling. On the other hand when on a trip we are travelling even when we are stopped!!!

Cheers

John

Damn public schools!! Or is that dam?