2 queries

Here:
http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_series/handbrake.html

You'll need to jack up and remove each rear wheel. I back off 3 notches on each starwheel - workshop manual says 8 which is too much.

The struts may need re gassing, I had the same problem with our Roadstar, and took them off and had them serviced, no more heavy boot lid
Broodie

Make sure first of all that the P/Brake Primary Cable adjustment is backed off and Lever is in fully off position. This is under P/Brake lever, should be two 10mm nuts on threaded end of cable, then make sure adjustment stops at levers behind rear of backing plates are against the plate. Then after removal of rear wheels and calipers the adjuster can be accessed through hole with plug in the Disc Face. Back this off to remove the Disc Rotor/Drum to view condition of all mechanisms and lining/drum wear, wash off with water if all ok.

Then sometimes it is advisable to remove the Brake Shoe Adjuster taking Note of the "Adjuster Wheel Position" as they can become seized or very dry and hard to adjust. Clean threads and lubricate sparingly with a High Temp Grease and refit to shoe assy, if drum/brake lining surfaces are ok clean both with emery tape and refit disc/drum back onto hub.

Fit a couple of wheel nuts to the wheel studs and tighten rotor onto hub face one side at a time because if both rotors are fitted it can create extra drag while turning the one side whilst adjusting, this helps with correct final adjustment of the internal brake shoe adjuster. If you really want to get it right, the way I have always adjusted correctly in the trade is to remove one axle as this negates the operation of the LS Diff action making it hard to turn the rotor when adjusting.

The easy way to remove the axle which will require a new gasket is to loosen nuts and with a brass drift and hammer tap onto the ends of the studs and that will loosen the taper collars, N.B. Do Not hit around the circumference of the axle as it will damage the flange surface "As Most Do" and cause broken axle studs after refitting kilometres down the road. Also be careful when sliding the Axle out of and when refitting in the housing as not to drag Axle on the Outer Axle Seal surface so as not to cause any damage to the seal.

Getting back to the final adjustment with Rotor fitted on Hub turn the Adjuster Wheel until Rotor/Drum is locked and Back Off approx 3 to 8 clicks as long as there is not too much drag while turning the Rotor, this is why removing axle makes a more positive final setting. Then when both Rotor/Drum Assy's are fitted with the Wheel Nuts after the internal adjustment proceed to the Adjustment of the Primary Cable under P/Brake Lever making sure that it is not over-adjusted checking by turning the Rotors while adjusting so again not to Overtighten.

Then remove the Wheel Nuts holding the Rotor and refit the calipers and wheels and that should be that done.

There are some other problems that can occur with high kilometre vehicles on dirt roads and that is excessive wear in the P/Brake Levers, Pins, Short Relay Cable and the Upper Shoe Relay Lever all in the Area of the Rotor/Drum Assy and also stretched Main Cables. Nothing short of a complete overhaul of these components is sometimes required to obtain enough mechanical advantage in the system for it to operate correctly. This applies to all Rear Disc brake Style Cruisers.