Diesel - Temp - Climbing Hills

I had similar prob in a V8 falcon, radiator repairer, Natrad, on Oaklands Rd suggested that the core of my radiator was partially blocked with sludge and deposits. had the core replaced in my radiator and it was as good as gold. same problem you had, on a hot day going up cement hill at seacliff my temp guage would go to 3/4, once i got over the top of the hill it would settle back on around 1/3.
Cheers Peter

Voxson

My GQ and my old mans both do the same thing, 40+ days it gets higher even on big climbs, I ignore it now. Ours are both turbos. My mitsubishi truck also does the same thing, I am guessing its just the way they are

Hi Voxson,
Nope ....its prety much the norm mate. But hang around.... I am working on something with my GQ as we speak. If work allows me some free time, I am pretty sure i will have a simple fix for GQ turbo's soon. Form what i have done so far, its looking good.

Regards AngeloI love it when you talk DIRTY !

I've been hangin' out here (& a few other forums) for several months now, & I've been beginning to wonder.. Am I the only one who does not have an "overheating" problem with Nissan 4.2 turbo's ???? (current drive is a GU purchased new in '99, "power-up" installed, previously had a GQ w/- AXT a/mkt. turbo, which my in-laws now own, & no "overheating" problems.. ever)...
I mean, how do you define "overheating" ??..
Many, many times I've been driving (& towing) in ambient temps. above 40deg.C., and sure, on a steady climb, the needle moves quite noticeably, but in my experience, with a healthy engine & a healthy cooling system, the needle will reach a certain point (about "3/4", whatever that means), and stay there, & as soon as the load is eased, it will quickly drop back to um, "normal"... I have never considered it to be a problem...
As far as I'm concerned, if there has been no loss of coolant, What's the problem??
Has it occurred to anyone that since the only "calibration" on the std. Nissan gauge is a "C" at one end & a "H" at the other, that just maybe, at the indicated "normal" temp., it is, in fact, running cooler than optimum?? JMO

Regards, Ed. C.Confucius say.....
"He who lie underneath automobile with tool in hand............
Not necessarily mechanic!!"

I've just come back from the Vic Alps and in the GU turbo the same thing happens on a steep climb with A/C on it goes up to 3/4 in no time at all then the A/C cuts out and does not come bak on until it drops back to just below 1/2.

Without the A/C on it still gets hot but takes a lot longer.

Bit of a pain when you want to keep all the dust out.

This happens on the highway as well if you push it up long climbs.

Hi Voxson my patrol in NZwould get up to about 3\4 on steep hills ,which we have alot off.This was normal for my truck which i had for 5 years ,I wouldnt worry to much about mate.Sorry I didnt get a photo of the L\C,the boys say hello. will ring soon to catch up
regards uppy

The rise in temp under load is quite normal as others here have said. As long as it stays below critical(boiling) and there is no loss of coolant there is no problem.

Over the years I have discovered that the most critcial item in engine operation is coolant. More engines are destroyed/damaged through loss of coolant than any other cause.
Yet I am not aware of any cars which have a suitable coolant loss/ overtemp alarm.

Most drivers will tend to forget their gauges when driving, particularly at night. Its only when you notice a sluggishness or steam escaping or a burning smell that drivers will check thier gauge. By then of course its too late.

I think a overtemp/coolant level alarm should be fitted as standard to vehicles to protect the engine even to the point of shutting them down. It would be very inexpensive to install in todays cars with all the sensors already fitted.

By alarm of course I mean an audible alarm not just an idiot light. This would have saved me at least three engine rebuilds over my years of driving.

Voxson, I always wonder what the standard is of the senders and guages in out vehicles, there only has to be a bad one or two and we will never know what makes engines fail. The other thing is the quality and the specification of thethermostat, was the selection correct at replacement?

If everything is ok one would have thought that the engine should run reasonably warm anyway as long as the driver heeds warnings. Reading Pedros post I can agree that a shutdown mechanism or better warning should be readily available. I have a Watchdog type system on a pump motor that cost about $250 that is very good on temperature and oil pressure as well as others which ever way I want to go. Shuts down very quickly if offended.

I was told by a guy with a 3" exhaust that cured his overheating problems. Who am I to disbelieve him, could stand to reason too, I know how I am breathing better. LOLRegards

JohnR - Not enough of the right travelling, some here..... some over there.......

I found that the overheating on my 4.2 TD, (severe when towing a heavy van up long slow hills)
was caused by the lower radiator hose sucking flat at the bottom bend.
High revs in lower gears = more water pump suction and hose partly collapses.
Collapsed hose = restricted water flow.
Cure is to insert spring in lower hose.
Problem was hard to find but next time your engine overheats keep motor at v/fast idle and quickly check hose before it has time to re expand.