Experiences of ETP - Engine & Transmission Parts (esp. for 1KZ-TE Prado engine)

The only problem with that is that the genuine one's crack too! Hence there is a large contingent producing aftermarket ones, and hence I find myself needing to source a replacement one too... doesn't do much for my peace of mind.

From what I understand, the metal in time becomes 'soft' and fails at a thin point - the compression ratio on these engines is around 21:1 which means quite high operating pressures.

Thanks t303. I'd also heard AMC heads were supposed to be good, but my advice on that seemed to be mostly from UK sources, which would have a milder climate than Oz.

The radiator just went in for a proper clean out (ie. take the tank off the top, stuff rods down the cores to make sure they're all clear, etc.) and I'll be putting a new water pump and thermostat in.

Do you have any recommendations for an aftermarket temperature gauge/sensor? I was having a look at the Engine Guardian yesterday. I've also heard of the Engine Saver but they seem quite expensive for what they are.

My advice (and yes it might be expensive, but so are head replacements) is to get a combined gauge like the one I fitted: madman EMS2. They have a local distributor. You need to watch: boost, EGT, coolant temp. They all increase, and in that order. I have this gauge plus a 15psi boost gauge in a double binnacle screwed to the dash above the centre radio stack. You get a few extra features as well, such as oil press, voltage and excedence alarms for user set limits. It's a compact all-in-one solution. Having seen what numbers can be produced whilst towing 1.5t camper over the last 13K km, I absolutely cringe when I see people with 3.0L turbo diesels dragging around >2t caravans at speed, blissfully unaware, because the standard gauges give no indication of the conflagration within!. At the very least you need EGT and coolant temp as a priority. It is the high EGT that produces the heat that weakens the alloy head, especially if the cooling system cannot remove it. Have a search on Prado specialist forums, it is discussed over there at length. Water pump will usually be OK unless bearing noisy or leaking. generally done at the second timing belt change at 300K. But, if you do the head, you might as well do the belt. If you reuse the hydraulic tensioner (which I personally don't recommend- if you get a Gates kit from CBC it is supplied anyway) then use a drill press, not a shop press to S L O W L Y and gently push the shaft down. Constant low downward pressure does the it. If the tensioner lets go it is usually terminal. It's starting to sound like a tutorial now, so I'll just shut up ;-)

Thanks again t303. I just ordered a coolant temperature gauge with digital read-out. Not sure I'll need a boost gauge as the turbo doesn't have variable vanes so I'm not sure that it can over-boost?

I also got my new thermostat today but it's rated at 180°F/82°C (the one I removed from the engine the other day was 76°C) - I note it is in the bottom radiator hose so probably should be using a cooler thermostat.

I've also ordered new timing belt & tensioner kit - will note your advice about installation as I had one go weak on my last car (Jackaroo). It wasn't terminal in that case though - it mustn't have slipped any teeth. I just had the timing belt rattling around loose inside the covers and wondered why it sounded so rattley! Replaced tensioner and all was okay again.

Instead of potentially breaching chit-chat rule, perhaps we can continue this conversation by email - just email me at my username at hotmail.com, cheers.