Holden Rodeo 07 4JJ1 Common Rail Starter Motor Replacement

Submitted: Saturday, Aug 04, 2012 at 08:16

ThreadID: 97248 Views:7347 Replies:4 FollowUps:5

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Tonyfish#58

I am looking for a 2007 Rodeo 4jj1 Starter Motor suppier as I have found this not easy to replace.

Was well out bush & very remote when the starter first played up, to be safe came back into Cooktown and dropped it in to get the starter replaced. The mechanic ordered one up from Cairns to be replaced next day. It came & did not fit as solenoid hit the manifold bolts. So mechanic gave all the details to the supplier and they sent up another Starter. Same story with this one as well. Seems they were listed as fitting but were justy not quite the same bolt hole positioning .

So got the old one put back in, paid the $190 for no result and risked it out bush...bit hairy at times trying to start the car.

So will now do it myself, has anyone brought an aftermarket one yet & did it fit? I noticed these on EBAY but do not want to buy if they are aslo not going to fit?

Rodeo Starter Motor

Might just get mine rebuilt?

Cheers Tony

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Reply By: pop2jocem - Saturday, Aug 04, 2012 at 11:05

Saturday, Aug 04, 2012 at 11:05

Hi Tony,

I know this may sound a bit obvious and I would assume your mechanic would have checked but on some starters the two bolt mounting flange can be re-positioned in relation to the solenoid. There is a row of bolts that hold that part to the main body and by removing these, turning the flange to the required position and re-bolting it alters the alignment. As I said I would think this would have been checked but.....

Cheers
Pop

AnswerID: 492220

Follow Up By: Tonyfish#58 - Saturday, Aug 04, 2012 at 12:23

Saturday, Aug 04, 2012 at 12:23

Pop Thanks for that - No I do not know if they tried this? When I look at the aprt online it appears this would not be possible.

Thanks for the reply

Regards Tony

FollowupID: 767872

Reply By: Ross M - Saturday, Aug 04, 2012 at 11:53

Saturday, Aug 04, 2012 at 11:53

If you are having the trouble but it still start sometimes, then the fault is in the solenoid heavy contacts.
It is easy to remove the end cover and clean/scrape the two side contacts and also run a file around the circular ring on the solenoid core. This will return the switching on of the heavy current to normal.

This is the most common fault with most starters.
Of course it doesn't mean there can't be a brush or commutator fault but they usually stop you and no go results.

AnswerID: 492222

Follow Up By: Tonyfish#58 - Saturday, Aug 04, 2012 at 12:27

Saturday, Aug 04, 2012 at 12:27

Ross thanks for the reply

I will remove the starter tomorrow and give it a go.

It did have a fair bit of corrosion evident appartently.

We have put it through a lot of water over the last 4 years :-)

Cheers Tonu

FollowupID: 767873

Follow Up By: Ross M - Saturday, Aug 04, 2012 at 14:52

Saturday, Aug 04, 2012 at 14:52

Tony.
While you are at it you could dismantle it and clean all, and also make sure there is ebnnough grease in the reduction drive section. With all oiled and greased where applicable the starting will be much quicker and use less current to operate it too.

FollowupID: 767883

Follow Up By: Tonyfish#58 - Sunday, Aug 05, 2012 at 08:08

Sunday, Aug 05, 2012 at 08:08

Ross thanks for the follow up advice, will have a look this afternoon hen I remove it. If it is looking a bit ordinary inside I think I would drop it in to get reconditioned?

We are often remote of the usual travell tracks, so would not like it to be unreliable.

Thankyou & Regards
Tony

FollowupID: 767935

Follow Up By: Tonyfish#58 - Tuesday, Aug 07, 2012 at 17:59

Tuesday, Aug 07, 2012 at 17:59

Ross FYI & Thanks again - I took mine apart today and found the bottom brush was seized and the spring rusted & broken. The brush just up from this was seized.

So if you do lots of water crossings as I do there is a good chance that there is a little water left in the bottom of the starter to start the rusting process.

I got both the brushes free to work again, but will have to see if I can find a spring. Otherwise it is still in very good condition. It would have only been firing on 2 brushes with most likely a bit of a spark from the other two seized ones.

Cheers Tony

FollowupID: 768150

Reply By: Tonyfish#58 - Monday, Aug 06, 2012 at 19:07

Monday, Aug 06, 2012 at 19:07

To follow up with this thread - It turns out that no parts are supplied so these can be reconditioned.

Holden Genuine is $633

All other quotes from others sources had them all over the $600 mark.

From the wreckers you can get them from $75 to $150 plus postage.

Ebay has them for new for 231 - 399 but it is difficult to know you are getting the right part even though they say the fit a 4JJ1 Common Rail. There is very little clearance between the Positive lead and the Manifold and the first 2 supplied hit the manifold. So non genuine is an issue.

So 2nd hand Genuine was the way I went ($131 delivered) and I will take mine apart and clean it up as best I can and it may do for a future backup?

Regards Tony

AnswerID: 492407