Tyre Pressures

Submitted: Wednesday, Sep 05, 2012 at 19:56

ThreadID: 97857 Views:2979 Replies:2 FollowUps:6

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Stephen H

Hi All
Just after some advice from the experienced travellers on tyre pressures that are used when towing on sandy and corrugated roads. Towing a Nova Revivor semi off road van on a Lap around at the beginning of next year. Have a Pajero as a tug. Any help greatly appreciated.
Cheers Stephen

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Reply By: NRK - Wednesday, Sep 05, 2012 at 20:53

Reply By: Member - Paul B (WA) - Thursday, Sep 06, 2012 at 07:37

Thursday, Sep 06, 2012 at 07:37

At the risk of starting another huge great thread which doesn't provide you with much help at all, the trick is to lower your tyre pressure to look after your vehicle on the corrugations without getting tyre blow-outs.

If you drive too fast on reduced tyre pressures, your tyres will overheat and that's when you get blowouts, and "too fast" can be remarkably slow sometimes.

So the really critical point is to monitor. After reducing your pressures, drive at the speed you want to drive at for a while (5-6km should be heaps) and check your tyres again. If they seem excessively hot, or if the pressure has increased appreciably (4psi), you will need to either increase the pressures a bit or SLOW DOWN! You may have to repeat this process, but don't just ignore it.

Speed and weight are the enemies of reduced tyre pressures.

It can be a bit tricky to get right the first time, but after a while you'll strike the right balance, and your passengers, your vehicle and the track will all thank you for getting it right.

Good luck.

AnswerID: 494342

Follow Up By: Stephen H - Thursday, Sep 06, 2012 at 16:51

Thursday, Sep 06, 2012 at 16:51

Thanks heaps Paul,
Great to read something thats not to complicated, It all makes sense.
Cheers Steve

FollowupID: 770031

Follow Up By: blown4by - Saturday, Sep 08, 2012 at 22:08

Saturday, Sep 08, 2012 at 22:08

Too much speed and too much pressure will cause blowouts also due to carcass fractures caused by the high impact loads. Also the damage can lie 'dormant' for some time until you hit the bitumen again and the higher speeds generates more heat which may cause a tread separation. This can lead you to think the tyre had a manufacturing fault if it failed on the black top when in fact the damage was due to rock or pot hole impact on the dirt.
Also if going outback do not use tyres over 6 years old

FollowupID: 770166

Follow Up By: Member - PJR (NSW) - Sunday, Sep 09, 2012 at 06:59

Sunday, Sep 09, 2012 at 06:59

Paul

Best description I have read of the 4psi rule. I dont use it myself but well done.

Phil

FollowupID: 770180

Follow Up By: Stephen H - Sunday, Sep 09, 2012 at 10:03

Sunday, Sep 09, 2012 at 10:03

Cheers Mate,
Thanks for the great info, will take it all on board.
Cheers Steve

FollowupID: 770193

Follow Up By: Member - Paul B (WA) - Sunday, Sep 09, 2012 at 20:03

Sunday, Sep 09, 2012 at 20:03

You are right of course Blown4by, but the thread was about sandy and corrugated roads & tracks.

If there are really sharp rocks (especially flint & limestone), lower your tyres until they are just standing up and the car rocks on them when you push sideways on it and don't get out of 2nd or 3rd gear (ie about 30km/hr max) is my best advice.

On the Nullarbor, the bottom end of the Connie Sue Hwy or the road north of Loongana up to Tjuntjuntjarra were the worst for this I've been on. We once had 6 flats in the first 40-odd km going up to Tjuntjun without the tyres deflated but on the way back, following the above advice, none. Of course, it goes without saying that you MUST RE-INFLATE once you get off that terrain and want to drive a bit faster. I think the bottom of the Connie Sue has been sheeted with gravel since, so it might be a bit better.

Since then, I've been in numerous situations where people have refused to lower tyre pressures and/or slow down and paid the price in tyres and time changing and fixing them.

FollowupID: 770242