Re-gluing the headlining in a Troopy
Submitted: Wednesday, Oct 31, 2012 at 11:10
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Member - John and Val
Hi All,
Has anyone successfully re-glued the headlining (ceiling) in their vehicle?
In our Troopy the lining consists of a perforated plastic membrane with sponge rubber backing, glued directly onto the metal roof. In our case, the backing has come away from the roof around the edges and needs to be reattached. One problem is that the headlining has warped/stretched/contracted and there’s really no way of clamping it in position while glue sets. For this reason I planned to use contact adhesive (the stuff you apply separately to both surfaces, let it dry for half an hour then press them together hopefully in exactly the right place) BUT I found that the solvents in the glue dissolve the plastic headlining. Fortunately I’d done a
test patch before starting on the main job!
Any suggestions as to how to proceed? Is there a water based contact adhesive? Any ideas will be very welcome.
Cheers
John | J and V
"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted."
- Albert Einstein
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Reply By: member - mazcan - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2012 at 13:01
Wednesday, Oct 31, 2012 at 13:01
hi
trade it in
john
would you keep wearing an old hat if it was disintergrating around your ears
lol
if the lining has shrunk inwards from the outer edges i very much doubt even if you are able to stick it back with what-ever that it will stay in place for long
as the tension on the material and variations in temperature will eventually make it break -away in the not to distance future
clark rubber may have a suitable glue for that type of foam backed lining
barry
AnswerID:
497664
Reply By: Allan B (Member, SunCoast) - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2012 at 14:43
Wednesday, Oct 31, 2012 at 14:43
Hi
John,
I replaced my headlining in the Troopy a couple of months ago. It was still
well attached but had some tears and missing bits. I purchased some
grey headlining material with foam backing from Clark Rubber together with their recommended contact adhesive. Rather than a vinyl surface it was a close-woven fabric. As the original was still
well attached I opted to apply the new over the old. It finished up a first-class job and a better appearance than the original. The material costs were not great.
Your existing foam backing may be disintegrating so it may be best to remove the old headlining before applying the new. Just scrape off any lumps of stubborn foam with a paint scraper. Any residue that is still
well attached to the steel could be left in place.
I removed the front steel cross-member and firstly glued only the central 80% area, leaving the oversized sides. Then trimmed the sides to size and glued each one in turn tucking them at the edges and under the cross-member which is above the headrests. Being a woven material it stretches readily and can be easily moulded into the rounded corners.
If you would like, I could mail you a scrap sample. Just MM me.
AnswerID:
497669
Reply By: Member - John and Val - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2012 at 15:26
Wednesday, Oct 31, 2012 at 15:26
Thank you everyone for your thoughts. Have now looked more closely at the underlying cause of the trouble - the basic issue is deterioration of the foam, and that will no doubt continue, so replacement looks a far better way to go. Clark Rubber don't mention headlining in their online catalogue, but a phone call got the response "We've got it in stock - did my Landcruiser a couple of months ago - looks great."
So I'll go that way and do it properly. Thank you too for the offer of a sample Allan, but I'll commit and go straight to the local source.
Cheers
John | J and V
"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted."
- Albert Einstein
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AnswerID:
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Reply By: Phil 23 - Monday, Nov 05, 2012 at 07:52
Monday, Nov 05, 2012 at 07:52
A Sprayable contact adhesive is the best solution.
Doesn't soak through the lining.
I got a few litres from the local upholterer, you can thin it to suit a spray gun or you can also get it some
places on pressure packs.
Used regular contact gel first on the roof & hard surfaces the sprayed a light coat on the fabric.
Successfully done a head lining as
well as light moulded carpet in a boat.
On the floor I used waxed paper to prevent it sticking ing
places I was not ready to deal with till towrds the end of the job.
Cheers!
AnswerID:
497941