1HZ shims

Hi Josh
The small clearance is due to the valves receding into the head this is normal.
To get the clearance back to speck you will have to remove the shims one at a time and measure the thickness of the shim then deduct the clearance you require
To know what size shim that you need to put back in its place normally a smaller shim.

If you run to small a clearance you can burn out the exhaust valves and the engine will not run all that well
Hope this helps
Robert

Make sure you know the thicknesses of all shims so they can be used to correct the clearances in as many places as possible and then only the remainder have to be purchased from Toyota or sourced from a wrecker or engine rebuilder workshop.
I suspect the same shims may be used in a number of Toyota engine and although they aren't necessarily 1HZ they will fit and do your job. You will have to check this of course.

Since you will know the thickness of the ones which need to be replaced, simple measuring of available shims will identify the required thicknesses for these.

Make sure you draw up a chart of all shim thicknesses and their positions under each cam lobe so you don't lose track of what you require.
Ross M

Far out, thanks guy's!

My next question is: Is it a better idea to take out the camshaft and just take out all the shims since all of them need doing?? It sounds like something I will need to order from Toyota once I know what size shims I need. Since all of them need replacing, doing one at a time with the SST doesn't seem that smart. Either that or perhaps I can get a machine shop to grind the shims?

I obviously need the shims out to measure them so i know what sized shims I need to order.

Cheers
Josh

John,
I adjusted the shims on my daughter's Hzj80 2 years ago and after measuring and swapping various shims, about 6 needed adjusting. I'm sure this all sounds a bit dodgy but it worked fine.

I made up a tool to depress the bucket to remove each shim. The tool was pretty simple - a length of 13mm RHS with a long M6 bolt at one end that bolted into the rocker cover sockets, and the other end had a bent M6 bolt that depressed the bucket. Needed 3 hands to work it though :-)
I grinded the shims with a belt sander inverted in a vice and measured them with the Micrometer.
Alternatively if you want new shims, they are about $20 each from Toyota or about $12 each from Don Kyatts.

I'll be checking the daughter's vehicle again in the next couple of days as she's down from Brisbane - I'm hoping they haven't changed much in the last 55,000k!

Cheers
phil

ironJosh
Making up that removal tool is a sound idea, it will be good to have and use both now and into the future.
Yes you will have to take out each one, no real need to remove cam, and carefully measure each one as mentioned earlier.
As also suggested by a few of us, change them around, once you know what the gaps are and what each shim thickness is. Then you slot the correct ones into where they are needed.
Some removal of thickness can be done by lapping them on a piece of wet &dry paper only on the underside surface though, until you achieve the desired reduction in thickness.
If you do this you probably won't have to buy very many at all.

The removal amounts is small and generally about 0.1 to 0.15 from what you have said.
If you are prepared to reduce them in this way none will be bought.
Use a good digital caliper, zeroed frequently, or a micrometer to maintain accuracy.
If the mixing and matching doesn't fix most, all the shims you have to thin down must be done evenly so they don't become tapered in the process.

As mentioned. Lots of Toyotas have shims and if you get suitable shims from stuffed heads at the wreckers then you will have a vast selection of thicknesses to choose from.

As Phil said you can get away with reusing and swapping the shims between valves to get the correct clearance, I've done it half a dozen times on different engines and you rarely need more than half a dozen new ones.
What we also found was that once done to correct clearances at around the 50-100k mark they rarely needed doing again.
The genuine tool from Toyota was pretty cheap from memory, was very similar to one I had for a Volvo engine too.
I've also seen one made from a small G clamp.

Thanks men. Yeah I guess I'll just take all the shims out, and see which ones I can use somewhere else. Hopefully a lot of the exhaust ones can be used on the intake valves. I'd rather just buy them than stuff around trying to thickness them on a belt sander. Time is money, and I don't have much time...

I have found a business called precision shims that another guy on the offroad80's forum recommended, I might look at them and Don Kyatt also. I'll also call a few wreckers and see what I can find.

Thanks for all your help guy's.

I-J

Just follow what Humvee Peter said and you will have no troubles at all. OEM removal tool from Toyota or after market from Don Kyatt (If they have one).

Source required shims from Kyatts, engine reconditioner/s, wreckers and Toyota as a last option.

If you decide to:

Quote "I grinded the shims with a belt sander inverted in a vice and measured them with the Micrometer".

Pleeeeeease!, please take a video of you doing so and post it for all to see how its done.

Regards

DD

Josh,
I will just say one thing.

What Phil G doesn't know about Toyotas is not worth knowing. Over the years he has given great advise on all things Toyota. From repair advise to quoting what part number to use and what will fits what when it is not a standard part.

RA.

All done! Got rid of the annoying knock I was worried about (probably one of the exhaust valves that wasn't closing properly). Didn't gain any more power though, but I hope I can gain some fuel economy. I could only re-use 2 of the smallest shims, but the bloke at Toyota did them for 12 each for me so it worked out to about $130 including. Now I have this special service tool I have no need for lol.