Aux Battery Leak?

Check you charge output rate with a multimeter , max 14.5volts, if all ok, take the battery back to where you bought it! Michael

First thing is neutralise the acid spill IMMEDIATELY.

Flush, flush and flush again with water. Then get some bicarb soda (you will need to buy a box of it 'cos you're going to use a lot), mix as much as will dissolve in a litre of water and pour that over the affected areas. It will bubble and fizz. Rinse. Do it again and again until it doesn't fizz any more, especially the aircon pipe which is probably aluminium and most likely to be worst affected. (It may be too late, but try anyway. Raid the cooking cupboard/pantry NOW and do it.)

Then pursue the battery warranty later.

Cheers

I agree with the flush with bicarb until the fizzing stops.. Use hot water for the mix.
Possible use a zinc primer as a bare metal treatment so the zinc becomes a sacrificial item in the repair instead of the sacrifice being TOYOTA steel.

Not sure of your battery but if it is a GEL or AGM battery then they are unsuitable for under bonnet temps, they just can't stand the heat without failing or boiling or both.
A good marine battery is probably the best for that purpose as a DUAL battery.
Maybe you will have to heat insulate it and also make a cool air feed to the new battery area to keep it's heat down and prolong it's life.

I noticed the "duel" in your text and it does seem to be fighting against something.
Hopefully you don't have a charge/voltage problem but it is best to check if this is occurring before putting a new battery into the system.

Ross M

Some deep cycle batteries don’t handle high temperatures real well.
I used to have a good quality American flooded deep cycle in the hottest part of the engine bay of a V8 diesel running at about 13.5 volts when hot.
The rear of the engine bay ran at about 80 deg C and a thermometer in the battery registered nearly 70 deg C during a run on a hot day – this caused it to spit acid out.
The battery was lead antimony construction (they gas heavily when hot) with a shallow reservoir above the plates. More suited to cooler situations like a fork lift or golf buggy etc. It was a allways a problem and finally boiled it self to death.
The suppler didn’t have a clue about the characteristics of the battery – the book said it was a good deep cycle, and I suppose it was when in the right location.
I finally I tracked down an engineer of the manufacturer and he commented it was what he would expect it to do at that temperature.
I now use 2 big 4WD starter batteries under the bonnet (antimony/calcium), now in their 3rd year - when they die I will investigate putting in 2 of the biggest marine batteries I can fit.

Dead cell or wrong battery type.

I use the MRV70 in LC100's. (Great Battery)

Regards

Derek from ABR

No matter which way you look at it, a battery that spews acid everywhere and has one cell has lost a lot of fluid is faulty.....no question about it.....if its 2 weeks old it should be a warranty job.

Heat, incorrect charging, vibration or whatever are not going to cause that particular sort of failure in two weeks.



Faults and failures will happen in all batteries from all manufacturers.

This shows that things go wrong with batteries, and strongly highlights why I am so very forthright on how batteries should be housed and mounted.

Imagine if this battery had been mounted inside the cabin of a vehicle or somewhere like under a bed in a caravan or some such.

lesson to those who think they can mount batteries in all sorts of places they should not.



On the matter I agree that for most dual battery applications, a sealed, maintenance free, marine/4wd/earthmoving battery is more appropriate than a deep cycle battery especially AGM......AND it will cost you less than many of the alternatives....HALF what AGM would.

Persoanlly I am fond of the Supercharge Seamaster Gold, The Caterpillar earthmoving batteries have a solid following and so do several other rugged construction, wet cell, sealed batteries.
These batteries will give you most of the advantages of AGM without a couple of specific drawbacks...AND.....they have considerably improved....vibration tolerance, cranking capacity, self discharge and cycle depth tolerance over standard batteries.


Washing soda ( sodium carbonate) will work to neutralise acid but disolves a bit easier than bicarb and has anticorrosive properties on steel.

The acid from the battery should not worry aluminium too much.....BUT both the bicarb and the washing soda will discolour it in the short term and cause corrosion in the long term if not washed off.
If there is something silver/grey in a metal and it is fizzing with acid it is probably zinc plated or coated.......you will want to replace that zinc protection.

A cold gal spray would be good.....some are better than others....the Galmet cold Galv is one of the best.

cheers

Just got word that the battery company will replace the battery at no cost. Am I right in saying that they have accepted liability and I should proceed to claim for the damages done from the acid attack?

projecta kit from super cheap or repco redarc is great if u wired it up yourself sounds like u may done something wrong the battery is over charging marine batteries are great i have 100a/h marine pro 3 years old still fine